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Old 05-03-2021, 10:16 AM   #43
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If the pressure relieve valve will come off, it should be a relatively simple matter to siphon the water out of the tank. What I was wondering is if a mild acid like vinegar poured in might help to loosen up any scale or other debris that might be adding to the problem. Hot water in the tank might help loosen things up if you could manage to get it hot enough. You might also attempt using steam from something like a a hot water pressure washer on the surface of the tank around the nut. Probably less likely to damage anything than with a torch.
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Old 05-03-2021, 10:29 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsavage74 View Post
According to the chart Brass is ok with Al
You are not reading the chart correctly.

Vertical column is the potential sacrificial metal. In that column, aluminum matched with brass on the horizontal line, is identified as at risk for corrosion. That means, the aluminum will be corroded when in contact with brass.

Further down, brass, matched with aluminum on the horizontal line, means brass will not be corroded when in contact with aluminum.
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Old 05-04-2021, 11:02 AM   #45
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If it were mine, I would drill a hole large enough to insert a small metal cutting blade and cut a slot down as close to the threads as you can. Then go in with an easy-out. Once you have the plug out, leave it out and flush any potential shavings out of the tank by pumping water into it.
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Old 05-05-2021, 08:39 AM   #46
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thanks monkey run have you ever drilled a galvanized plug just wondering how hard it would be good idea
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Old 05-06-2021, 09:37 AM   #47
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thanks monkey run have you ever drilled a galvanized plug just wondering how hard it would be good idea
Galvanized steel is just that, a zinc coating to prevent rusting of a steel component. If it's a cast iron plug, I have drilled that also, but sometimes it will crack or break, which is fine in your case.

Drilling should pull most of the metal particles out as you drill, but there will probably be something remaining to fish out. The good news is, that it's apparently steel, so you could stick a magnetic probe in there and pull most everything out through the plug hole prior to flushing with water.
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Old 05-06-2021, 02:24 PM   #48
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After done drilling, removing remnants of old plug........turn water supply on and let it BLAST out the drain hole
Dip tube points downward so the high volume water supply will stir up the bottom of tank and force stuff right out the drain
Stand back LOL
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Old 05-06-2021, 02:52 PM   #49
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Plug

Upon purchase of our "new to us" 2004 Pace Arrow recently, I pulled the blow off valve (brass) , closed the bypass valve and loaded 3 gallons of vinegar, and topped her off with water. Let it sit for 4 days, and flushed her out with a plastic wand from Camper World. Man, you should have seen the white crystals and flakes that poured out the drain hole. I'l bet a quarter of a cup.
I added a 1/4 turn brass ball valve in place of the drain plug.
Had this set up for many years in our old coach and it has worked well.

It gives me a source of warm water outside to wash my hands too.

Mike in Colorado
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Old 05-08-2021, 08:41 AM   #50
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I have found the OEM Atwood plugs on Amazon perform much better than the Camco plugs. The Camco plugs are much softer material and do not torque as tightly due to the softer nylon causing them to drip.
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Old 05-09-2021, 08:45 AM   #51
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All very good advice,depending on the age of the RV I would consider pricing a new tank epecially if you plan on keeping the unit. Just looked seemed reasonable for something you would like to be fail-safe
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Old 05-09-2021, 01:17 PM   #52
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Santara water heater leak

Does anyone have experience with leaks on an Atwood water heater in a Coachmen Santara (35.8) class A? I can turn the bypass valve off and have no leaks, but when I try to fill the water heater I have water running out the bottom. I can't even access the water hoses in there because its inside the bathroom cabinet, with no outside access except for the face on the side of the MH.

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 05-09-2021, 01:28 PM   #53
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Does anyone have experience with leaks on an Atwood water heater in a Coachmen Santara (35.8) class A? I can turn the bypass valve off and have no leaks, but when I try to fill the water heater I have water running out the bottom. I can't even access the water hoses in there because its inside the bathroom cabinet, with no outside access except for the face on the side of the MH.

Any help would be appreciated.
No way to know about the leak without access to see the area behind. High probability the leak is from a broken connection to the inlet at the bottom of the tank, but you need access.



Even to remove the tank you will need access. How that is accomplished will have to come from someone familiar with your RV. Still, most RVs will have a panel that can be removed. Look closely for screws or any other means of attachment in the back of the cabinet. You may be surprised.
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Old 05-10-2021, 03:08 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikecl View Post
Does anyone have experience with leaks on an Atwood water heater in a Coachmen Santara (35.8) class A? I can turn the bypass valve off and have no leaks, but when I try to fill the water heater I have water running out the bottom. I can't even access the water hoses in there because its inside the bathroom cabinet, with no outside access except for the face on the side of the MH.

Any help would be appreciated.
Bypass valves do not have an on or off. They are just a direction flow valve. There can be 1, 2, or 3 valves depending on the type of system. WH is accessible from both sides. One is outside and one is inside. Outside one is very easy to see and open. Slotted lover cover about 14" x 14". Inside one can be more challenging. Most are hiding behind a panel screwed in place that you must remove.
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