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Old-Biscuit · 11-17-2024, 10:33 AM

AS posted earlier.........you have a Magnetek/Parallax converter
Shows it is a 6300 series --- 6345 model (45A capability)

Best Converter LINK posted has a 45A KIT to replace the converter section and DC Distribution FUSE Panel

RVfixit · 11-17-2024, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Avionguy71

I haven't since everything else is working and it does light once, but I will double check. What would be best way yo check?

The easiest way to check is to unplug the harness going to the control board, find the green wire in that connector and using an ohmmeter, put one lead on the green wire and the other to a chassis ground ( something on the coach that is metal such as the frame or if you can reach them, the negative post on your batteries.

Please NOTE; without knowing the model number of your water heater, I can only guess that your ground wire is green and in some cases, the control board will have a + or - marked right on the board where the harness plugs in.

Good Luck! We will figure this out with all of the help on this thread, Im sure!

Old-Biscuit · 11-17-2024, 12:23 PM

OP stated in 1st post it was an Older Gas only Atwood
1980 Vintage would make it a G6A-7E possibly 8E

RVfixit · 11-17-2024, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

OP stated in 1st post it was an Older Gas only Atwood
1980 Vintage would make it a G6A-7E possibly 8E

Great Information! With that diagram I can see there are 3 ground points which could all be tied together in reality but this unit is very basic. If it were me, once you get to the second lighting and you hear that whining noise, follow the 12 volts to and from the thermal cut-off, thermostat and to the block (controller). Also verify 12 volts at the gas valve solenoid. If at the stage where you hear that whining but there is no attempt at ignition (spark), then something in the proofing circuit is not letting the controller move forward with spark ignition and if the sensor doesn't sense a flame, nothing moves forward. Still check for a loose, corroded ground as well. If everything checks out, then it will come down to checking the resistance of each component such as the thermal cut-off and in tank thermostat. You need to disconnect at least one wire for each item to get an accurate reading. These should have very low resistance but without part numbers, its hard to tell what those numbers would be.

Some fuel for thought!

Old-Biscuit · 11-17-2024, 02:14 PM

Flame Proving/sensing is AFTER Ignition........does not stop ignition just causes Circuit Board to drop DC to gas valve IF flame doesn't ignite/prove it lit

*DC from fused source to on/off switch
*DC from on/off switch to thermal fuse then t-stat
*t-stat closes DC to circuit board
*circuit board sends DC to/thru ECO and to gas valve solenoids AND spark electrode at same time
*electrode provides High Voltage for ignition
*flame lights and generates millamp flame proving signal
*circuit board senses the DC milliamp current....keeps DC on gas valve
*otherwise it drops DC and attempts to ignite/prove flame 3X....lockout

DC Neg/ground
*from battery to water heater chassis (typically exhaust shield)
*from battery to water heater circuit board ground circuit
*from battery to on/off switch lockout light ground (just for Fault Light)