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Old 05-11-2019, 01:09 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by nvs4602 View Post
I'll ask the dumb question. Is the hot water heater full of water with the air bled out of it?
Funny you should ask. I am just coming inside from solving the problem, and saw your post.

Problem solved!!!

Pure operator error.

I pulled the heater tank drain plug out again, and only got a trickle of water, not the 4 gallons I suspected.

Hmmm. The water pump is on, and the water heater bypass valve that I have been staring at for days is in the correct position....but it wasn't! The tank was mostly empty. If only someone would design a system that shuts it off when it got too hot....

The ECO was doing it's job precisely, because it was too hot in the partially empty water tank.

I am re-labelling the confusing normal/bypass valve so that a numbskull like myself can't even screw it up.

SO, nothing was ever broken, I got a great lesson in how that system worked, did a spring parts replacement tune up, and if I get to use it again this year, I will have to find something else to mess up. It was only staying lit for 3-4 seconds at first, so I probably replaced a failing part along the way. I keep telling myself that.

Thanks to all who helped.
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Old 05-11-2019, 01:19 PM   #16
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A lesson well learned from my dad was to always check the easiest things first.
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Old 05-11-2019, 02:49 PM   #17
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Good to have spare parts on hand!
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Old 05-11-2019, 02:51 PM   #18
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Glad controls were doing their job.


Sounds like you lucked out and had enough water to keep electric element from burning out (they don't last long dry firing)




Don;t understand you DC Voltage readings
BRN 3, White 2, OR 1


I get White 2/OR 1
That is DC from electric (white) and gas (OR) on/off switches to circuit board


BUT BRN 3???
With electric or gas on DC from circuit board goes thru thermal fuse to t-stat via BRN 1 (bottom connector)
With t-stat closed DC goes from t-stat back to circuit board BRN 3 (top connector)


Can't have DC on BRN 3 and No DC on BRN 1.......
CAN have DC on BRN 1 and No DC on BRN 3 when T-stat opens


T-stat should have opened when tank got hot
ECO wouldn't open until tank got HOT-HOT (180*F) and it would have triggered the RED Fault Light plus locked out any attempts to refire w/o reset


????
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Old 05-11-2019, 04:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Glad controls were doing their job.


Sounds like you lucked out and had enough water to keep electric element from burning out (they don't last long dry firing)




Don;t understand you DC Voltage readings
BRN 3, White 2, OR 1


I get White 2/OR 1
That is DC from electric (white) and gas (OR) on/off switches to circuit board


BUT BRN 3???
With electric or gas on DC from circuit board goes thru thermal fuse to t-stat via BRN 1 (bottom connector)
With t-stat closed DC goes from t-stat back to circuit board BRN 3 (top connector)


Can't have DC on BRN 3 and No DC on BRN 1.......
CAN have DC on BRN 1 and No DC on BRN 3 when T-stat opens



T-stat should have opened when tank got hot
ECO wouldn't open until tank got HOT-HOT (180*F) and it would have triggered the RED Fault Light plus locked out any attempts to refire w/o reset


????



Forget about DC statement in above that I have struck.
Had my thinking cap on backwards
(Sometimes I get dyslexic)



DC comes from On/Off Switches via White 2 (electric) or OR 1 (gas) and goes to Tstat via BRN 3

With Tstat closed DC goes thru thermal fuse and back to Circuit Board via BRN 1


T-stat opens DC on White 2, OR 1 AND BRN 3 would be normal
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:38 PM   #20
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Good Story & Thread Worth Keeping

Many thanks to everyone who contributed to this post.

I will keep it in my library for the day I need help understanding how my hot water heater works.

Thanks!
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Old 08-26-2024, 11:14 AM   #21
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Wrong vendor makes big difference !

Make sure your replacement part works. I checked continuity and voltage on circuits as mentioned before. Found brand new replacement control/spark ignitor/sensor board was bad. Board could not sense flame was lit and kept turning off gas control valve.

AUTOBABA 91365 Circuit Board (Amazon) $48 - DID NOT WORK.

Atwood 91365 Circuit Board Kit for Water Heaters (Amazon) $88 - Use with Gas/Electric 12 VDC - Atwood Store - Worked 1st time !!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019COT1HC...fed_asin_title

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Kept me in hot water with the wife ! All good !
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