Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > RV SYSTEMS AND TECHNOLOGIES FORUMS > RV Systems & Appliances
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-18-2021, 09:22 AM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 8
Battery related questions

Hello,

I am new to the forum and have many battery related questions. We have a 2011 Skyline Layton 189 which came with one 24 size deep cycle battery and has no battery disconnect switch. We live in the Pacific NW and freezing is not a problem. Over the years I have left the battery connected and have plugged my shore power into 110 using an adapter. I have found this has prematurely ruined batteries. My theory is the 12V stereo is always on (power is off, but light remains on) and always drawing some power.

My question involves what to do in my off season which is usually November-April/May. Let me add that I have someone who uses the camper in my driveway 2x a week for sleeping. I recently purchased a Noco Gen 5 x 2 and recently got a spare battery (same as other). My thought was leave the waterproof Noco Gen 5 x 2 connected to both batteries, with shore power connected for AC. I have found this seems to drain the battery as well.

What I'd like to do is remove both batteries and have them in the garage with the Noco maintainer on. This would leave the camper battery connectors loose and I found the positive can spark so this doesn't seem safe. The other reason I'd like them in the garage is the battery boxes have the small vent on top and this collects rainwater (PNW) so I'll find the battery swimming in the box usually within a few months. If there is a solution for this, please let me know. I would need some recommendation on how to safely deal with the loose trailer battery connectors.

I would really like a battery disconnect switch, which might seem to solve all my problems. I believe if I had this, I could leave one battery connected to the trailer, but switch it off. I would have the Noco going to both, figure out some method of preventing rain from getting in the battery boxes, leave shore power on for AC and perhaps be good to go. In this scenario I need a recommendation for a battery disconnect switch and a solution to prevent water in the battery boxes (tarp tent over them?).

Another thought is to somehow disconnect the stereo which we really never use. I suspect this is the parasitic battery drainer, but I'm sure there are others in this rig. If this seems logical, I would need some guidance on how to do this.

I know this "introduction" is a really long series of questions, but I hope some maintenance guru can help me out. Surely there is some other solution I haven't outlined here which may be better and I'd be grateful to hear it.

Thanks for any guidance, I welcome all opinions on how to approach this problem.
Carapace is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 09-18-2021, 09:56 AM   #2
Senior Member/RVM #90
 
MSHappyCampers's Avatar


 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Columbus, MS
Posts: 48,265
Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined us!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
__________________
Joe & Annette
Sometimes I sits and thinks, sometimes I just sits.....
2002 Monaco Windsor 40PBT, 2013 Honda CRV AWD
MSHappyCampers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2021, 11:42 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 18,366
If it is plugged into 120VAC power then Battery Should Have been maintained/charged by the converter even with parasitic draws (radio/clock, LP Detector etc)

So either converter/charger is bad, didn't have AC power to it or the battery was bad

Reason POS is sparking when disconnected and plugged into AC power is the Converter/Charger is supplying DC

Battery Box....drill couple holes in opposite corner of bottom so rain can leak out

Is trailer battery OEM...2011
Time for new battery

When plugged into AC Power...converter on....need to check battery water levels every week. If water level remains constant then every month .
__________________
Is it time for YOUR Medication or Mine?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor & NUWA 5vr
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
Old-Biscuit is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2021, 12:01 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 2,531
Storing Lead Acid Batteries

There are lots of different RV systems. However, normally plugging into shore power does not ruin batteries. It is optimum for storage. RV chargers are often higher quality than portable chargers.

Test your TT charging system.
Get a cheap digital voltmeter from your local hardware store.
Measure the battery terminal voltage. See table below for SoC.
Connect to shore power.
Voltage will start at what ever discharge level.
Voltage will slowly raise to preset voltage your charger uses.
It may raise to 14.4 for a few hours.
It should then drop back to 13.6 volts. This is OK for long term storage of flooded cell lead acid batteries.
My charger will later drop back to 13.2 volts. This is optimum for both flooded cell and AGM batteries.

Before charging, water must cover the plates. Do not bring up to full until charging finishes.

Check water level in the batteries after charging. Bring it up to the ring or mark inside the cell. (That leaves an air space and opening to vent gases.)
Recheck water level periodically until you know how long you can go before adding more water. Add only distilled water. Minerals in water will disrupt chemistry.

14.4 volts for long periods will consume more water and is not acceptable for most AGM batteries. Check and refill more often. 13.2 volts should go for months without adding water. High ambient temperatures can increase water evaporation.

"Static" State of Charge (SoC)
After 3 hours rest.
Lead Acid Batteries
100% 12.7
90% 12.5
80% 12.42
70% 12.32
60% 12.2
50% 12.06
40% 11.9
30% 11.75
20% 11.58
10% 11.31
0% 10.5

Battery University https://batteryuniversity.com/articles

How does the Lead Acid Battery Work?
https://batteryuniversity.com/articl...d-battery-work

How do battery chargers work
https://batteryuniversity.com/articl...-chargers-work

How to Charge and When to Charge?
https://batteryuniversity.com/articl...when-to-charge
__________________
Paul Bristol
Kodiak Cub 176RD
Nissan Pathfinder 2015
Persistent is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2021, 12:36 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Winemaker2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Western NY
Posts: 4,419
Radios with memory have a small parasitic draw. If you don't care about station memory find the constant on / memory wire on the back and disconnect it. Tape or wire not the live feed so it doesn't short out.
There are many simp,e and inexpensive batty switches and most any will handle a GP 24 batty.

Sent from my SM-T387V using iRV2 - RV Forum mobile app
__________________
Don & Marge
'13 Newmar Ventana 3433 - '14 CR-V TOAD
'03 Winnebago Adventurer 31Y - SOLD
Winemaker2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2021, 07:08 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 2,531
"My theory is the 12V stereo is always on (power is off, but light remains on) and always drawing some power."

You are correct. There are likely more "parasitic loads" as well.

"with shore power connected for AC. I have found this seems to drain the battery as well."

Shore power should not drain batteries. Something is wrong. Test terminal voltages. See previous post.

"This would leave the camper battery connectors loose and I found the positive can spark so this doesn't seem safe."

Loose battery cables should be "hot" when plugged into shore power. Converter should be supplying 13.6 volts. Wrap positive connector to insulate it.

"The other reason I'd like them in the garage is the battery boxes have the small vent on top and this collects rainwater (PNW) so I'll find the battery swimming in the box usually within a few months. If there is a solution for this, please let me know."

Drill a 1/4 inch hole in the bottom of the battery box for drainage. A better solution would be to put a small tubing fitting on the bottom and a drain tube to get acid leakage below metal support parts. Acid will corrode metal.

"I would really like a battery disconnect switch, which might seem to solve all my problems. I believe if I had this, I could leave one battery connected to the trailer, but switch it off. I would have the Noco going to both, figure out some method of preventing rain from getting in the battery boxes, leave shore power on for AC and perhaps be good to go. In this scenario I need a recommendation for a battery disconnect switch and a solution to prevent water in the battery boxes (tarp tent over them?)."

There are endless battery shut off switches available on Amazon or your local auto-parts store.

"Another thought is to somehow disconnect the stereo which we really never use. I suspect this is the parasitic battery drainer, but I'm sure there are others in this rig. If this seems logical, I would need some guidance on how to do this."

The shut off switch will solve this problem.

Summary:
Store batteries fully charged and disconnected or leave plugged into shore power.
Shut-off switch in positive battery cable.
Drain in bottom of battery box.
Test built in converter and possibly your external charger.
__________________
Paul Bristol
Kodiak Cub 176RD
Nissan Pathfinder 2015
Persistent is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2021, 09:18 AM   #7
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 8
Thank you all, such great and detailed information! Campers rock!

I should add a couple points. First, yesterday after I posted, I removed a CO fuse (I have a separate battery operated unit) and I just taped the exposed ends with electrical tape, was this a bad thing to do? Doesn't pulling the fuse "cut the power"? Wouldn't that be fine as long as other systems aren't sharing that 3amp fuse?

Next I pulled the fuse for the radio and the light went out. Bad? This was a 15amp fuse.

I do believe my replacement battery from 2019 is bad, but with my concerns about the converter/shore power situation, I'm reluctant to put a new, "extra" battery from 2021 on the rig. Note I have probably purchased at least one other new battery in the 10 years we've owned it. So I've gone through 3-4 batteries in 10 years.

I had the entire electrical system checked out by a servicer in 2018. They said nothing wrong with shore power charge system or battery monitor (the simple 4 button light system). Nothing wrong with my 2019 Jeep 7 pin system for charge as well. Just seems like when we get to our destination, say after 2-4 hours of driving, the 4 button light is already showing 3/4 or 1/2 battery power left. That seems like a fast drain, but it's probably the radio. I'm discussing dry camping/no shore power situation in this scenario.

As for maintenance, I do check water levels at least every 3 months. I wonder if rain water could have got in the cells, although I've never found the water in the box that high. I always use distilled water.

No one has commented on the Noco gen 5 x 2 maintainer. Any opinions here? I would like to have 2 batteries and I'd leave one on the shore power charger and have them both on the Noco. The other battery would be a spare if dry camping. I can probably still return the Noco to Amazon so I'd love to hear some opinions.

I saw a very well done video by DYI Outdoor Life on YouTube on how to install a battery shut off switch. I can easily put that in. He also did a tutorial on how to install a power off switch for the radio, but would the pulled fuse solve that issue more easily. Near as I can tell it only powered the radio.

Lastly can you recommend any articles specifically explaining the power systems in a travel trailer. AC vs DC, converters vs inverters... Do I even need a battery with me if I'm connected to power and water at a campground?

I thank you all again and appreciate the time you are taking to help me.

Cara
Carapace is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2021, 09:43 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Marine359's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 371
I have used a Noco Gen10 on 12v batteries that I thought were dead. The Noco reconditioned my mower battery, extending charge hold time for up to 3 months. I got an extra 18 months out of that battery before it finally failed. Before I switched to LiFePo4, I used the Noco to condition and maintain my deep cycle in our TT. Just remove the cable leads to the battery, connect the Noco using its alligator clips via an extension cord, and leave SP disconnected. No reason to have converter on when Noco is connected. Since you live where it doesn’t freeze often, there’s no reason to bring the batteries indoors.

Besides that, just follow OB’s advice.
__________________
Jim. 2021 Canyon Denali 4x4 3.6L, Husky C-Line
2021b Micro Mini 2108DS, 170AH LiFePo4, Xantrex XC2000, 110w Solar Suitcase, Champion 2500w df
Marine359 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2021, 08:24 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 2,531
I should add a couple points. First, yesterday after I posted, I removed a CO fuse (I have a separate battery operated unit) and I just taped the exposed ends with electrical tape, was this a bad thing to do? Doesn't pulling the fuse "cut the power"? Wouldn't that be fine as long as other systems aren't sharing that 3amp fuse?

Pulling the fuse would do it just fine. I usually reinsert the fuse using only one leg of the fuse. The keeps it handy in case you need it later. It also makes sure you know what size is required for that circuit.

Next I pulled the fuse for the radio and the light went out. Bad? This was a 15amp fuse.

Good

I do believe my replacement battery from 2019 is bad, but with my concerns about the converter/shore power situation, I'm reluctant to put a new, "extra" battery from 2021 on the rig. Note I have probably purchased at least one other new battery in the 10 years we've owned it. So I've gone through 3-4 batteries in 10 years.

Lead acid batteries that have been used or abused for a while often don't make good battery banks when new batteries are added.

Batteries wired in series must be identical. Same make, model, age.

Batteries wired in parallel are more tolerant. However, a weak battery will shorten the run time of the whole bank. Old batteries with high self discharge will pull the new one down with it. It is OK to do if adding new and replacing old is not possible but performance will suffer.

Just seems like when we get to our destination, say after 2-4 hours of driving, the 4 button light is already showing 3/4 or 1/2 battery power left. That seems like a fast drain, but it's probably the radio. I'm discussing dry camping/no shore power situation in this scenario.

The battery should support the radio for days, not hours. I don’t know for sure why voltage drops that fast. Here are some possibilities.

Battery is not fully charged to start with. Surface charge bleeds off fast when charging stops. It takes 14 to 18 hours for a full clean charge.


The 4 light battery meter found in many RV’s is a voltage monitoring device. When you charge using tow vehicle or built in charger, it reads the charger voltage. % charge is not accurate.
When you stop charging or discharging voltage slowly drops to “static” voltage. The meter is accurate under static conditions. It shows battery % charge.
When discharging the meter shows discharge voltage profile. It will always show lower voltage than “static”. Meter is not accurate for % of charge. Voltage will slowly rise when discharge stops.

Battery is defective. It is self discharging.

Some other high current 12 volt device is “on”. An inverter running a 120 volt device like a compressor type refrigerator may do it. An absorption type refrigerator working on 12 volts would do it.

One 80 amp hour battery is not much capacity for dry camping. I put a pair of 100 amp hour AGM batteries on mine. They last 3 to 5 days with plenty of reserve capacity.

I saw a very well done video by DYI Outdoor Life on YouTube on how to install a battery shut off switch. I can easily put that in. He also did a tutorial on how to install a power off switch for the radio, but would the pulled fuse solve that issue more easily. Near as I can tell it only powered the radio.

Fuse pull would work. There still may be other parasitic appliances. Monitor battery terminal voltage drop in storage. Full recharge required before terminal voltage drops below 12.4 volts. You should get 6 months storage time on a battery in good condition.

Battery cut off switch will work for storage. Fully charge for 14 to 18 hours. Disconnect battery. Should be good for 6 months of storage. Fully recharge before voltage drops below 12.4 volts.

Fuse pull will work while camping of course.

Do I even need a battery with me if I'm connected to power and water at a campground?

Most RV’s have a converter/charger. The “converter” part means the RV will work without a battery when plugged in to shore power or generator.
__________________
Paul Bristol
Kodiak Cub 176RD
Nissan Pathfinder 2015
Persistent is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2021, 08:36 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 2,531
RV Power Systems

Lastly can you recommend any articles specifically explaining the power systems in a travel trailer. AC vs DC, converters vs inverters...

https://www.rv-insight.com/RV-Wiring-for-Dummies.html

12 Volt Side of Life
The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)
The 12volt Side of Life Part 2
Battery University https://batteryuniversity.com/articles

How does the Lead Acid Battery Work?
https://batteryuniversity.com/articl...d-battery-work

How do battery chargers work
https://batteryuniversity.com/articl...-chargers-work

How to Charge and When to Charge?
https://batteryuniversity.com/articl...when-to-charge
__________________
Paul Bristol
Kodiak Cub 176RD
Nissan Pathfinder 2015
Persistent is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2021, 03:46 PM   #11
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 8
Thank you all and especially thanks to "Persistent" which appears to be a very apt nickname, particularly if you continue to hang in there with me and my questions. My nickname, Carapace, may be accurate as well as my name is Cara and I learn at "Carapace" (which is also the shell of a turtle and perhaps my speed of learning).

We bought I new (2021) battery to "match" the older one from 2019 and they haven't been wired in parallel. I think I should replace the older one with another from 2021 and wire them in parallel. My original idea was that I would simply bring the other along fully charged when dry camping and just disconnect the discharged one and attach the fully charged one. I have since learned it's not too difficult to wire them in parallel. Is this the best plan?

If I do this, can/should I leave my 30amp (with 15 amp household adapter) plugged in all the time at home? My converter (WFCO 8955) has the float, bulk and absorptive modes. Will this keep the battery charged and maintained or is there something else I should be doing? I think I'm returning the Noco Gen 5X2 maintainer.

Note: someone sleeps in the trailer and uses some appliances 2 nights per week.

If I install a battery shut off switch, do I need one for each battery if wired in parallel or will one switch shut the whole system off? Will the batteries continue to be maintained or charged when this switch is off? Would the person sleeping in the trailer just turn the switch on when using the trailer?

I plan on checking battery water levels every other month, any other maintenance suggestions regarding the batteries and charging methods?

Thanks again!
Carapace is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2021, 07:39 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 2,531
We bought I new (2021) battery to "match" the older one from 2019 and they haven't been wired in parallel. I think I should replace the older one with another from 2021 and wire them in parallel. My original idea was that I would simply bring the other along fully charged when dry camping and just disconnect the discharged one and attach the fully charged one. I have since learned it's not too difficult to wire them in parallel. Is this the best plan?

This is a very good plan.

If I do this, can/should I leave my 30amp (with 15 amp household adapter) plugged in all the time at home? My converter (WFCO 8955) has the float, bulk and absorptive modes. Will this keep the battery charged and maintained or is there something else I should be doing? I think I'm returning the Noco Gen 5X2 maintainer.

The WFCO 8955 is simple to operate and has all the necessary microprocessor programing to take good care of your flooded cell batteries. I don't know why your battery died while being plugged in.

If I install a battery shut off switch, do I need one for each battery if wired in parallel or will one switch shut the whole system off?

Either way will work.

Will the batteries continue to be maintained or charged when this switch is off?

No charging will take place when the battery disconnect switch is "off". Make sure battery has been fully charged 14 to 18 hours before disconnecting.

Would the person sleeping in the trailer just turn the switch on when using the trailer?

Yes.

I plan on checking battery water levels every other month, any other maintenance suggestions regarding the batteries and charging methods?

Good plan.
__________________
Paul Bristol
Kodiak Cub 176RD
Nissan Pathfinder 2015
Persistent is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2021, 09:48 PM   #13
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 8
The plot thickens, or perhaps I'm getting closer to the answer. See this post for a similar scenario to mine (which is also a Skyline TT) https://www.irv2.com/forums/f50/in-l...se-215983.html

excerpt from that post: "I replaced the battery with a new one and the converter is working fine as I tested it. I have been told that there is an in line fuse somewhere in the positive line leading from the battery to inside. My battery does not seem to charge enough. I have checked all of the fuses in the WFCO compartment and all are fine. I can't seem to find an in line fuse anywhere. There is a plastic black box near the battery with a clear small lens which appears to be a light on top. I noticed that the wires from the battery also go in and out of that box."

I also have an in-line fuse which is likely blown. The "clear small lens which appears to be a light on top" (of the black plastic box) is a fuse reset button. I removed the button and discovered the fuse. I couldn't get the fuse out, but I bet if I remove the cover of the black box I can. I suspect a blown in-line fuse may be the culprit. Could this explain why my battery never seemed to charge fully?

BTW: I returned both my old and my June 2021 batteries to Costco. I have a
battery analyzer which said both batteries were bad, however I found the results on the June 2021 battery confusing. I attached pictures of the results. The old battery, which was connected to the travel trailer with the shore power plugged in via 15amp adapter, tested bad at 13.08V. "Bad" with this analyzer means it won't hold a charge. The newer battery was attached to the Noco battery maintainer not attached to the trailer, just plugged into 110 outlet and tested bad at 12.67V. Any help interpreting these numbers and the "bad" status?

Right now, I have shore power disconnected and no batteries on the travel trailer. I have the positive and negative battery leads taped with electrical tape and wrapped up to keep them from getting wet while I continue to troubleshoot the situation.

In addition to the above 2 questions:

After I replace the in-line fuse, Can I plug into shore power safely with my battery leads disconnected like I have described (electrical tape covering the metal ends) or is there something safer you can recommend? I really don't need batteries until next spring.

I will eventually install 2 new batteries in parallel with a battery shut off switch, however I would like opinions on the lead acid battery shown as "new" in the picture from Costco (cost $79 each) vs an Interstate AGM battery from Costco MCA 940 (cost $170 each). The frame is welded to house up to two 24 size batteries. I will say I drilled holes in my battery box and while this will prevent rain water from filling the box, I still get water on top of the battery. Rain water couldn't be somehow getting into the lead acid battery water compartment and causing issues, could it? I was somehow considering that as a theory for battery malfunction, but I think the fuse is the key. So really a long way of asking lead acid vs AGM, vs ? 6V vs lithium.... maybe a pandora's box, but would welcome all opinions.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	new battery.jpg
Views:	4
Size:	380.2 KB
ID:	345133   Click image for larger version

Name:	old battery.jpg
Views:	4
Size:	393.5 KB
ID:	345134  

Carapace is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2021, 07:41 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 2,531
“I also have an in-line fuse which is likely blown. The "clear small lens which appears to be a light on top" (of the black plastic box) is a fuse reset button. I removed the button and discovered the fuse. I couldn't get the fuse out, but I bet if I remove the cover of the black box I can. I suspect a blown in-line fuse may be the culprit. Could this explain why my battery never seemed to charge fully?”

Of course a blown fuse would prevent battery charging and discharging. It would explain why battery voltages are low. A picture of the fuse box may allow better advice on how to change the fuse.

Disconnecting, removing, and reconnecting a battery occasionally will trip a circuit breaker or blow a fuse. Use proper procedures to prevent momentary short circuits which will blow fuses:
Disconnect shore power.
Disconnect negative terminal first and cover connector.
Disconnect positive terminal and cover connector.
Reconnect to shore power after battery connectors are covered safely.
Reverse procedure for reinstalling battery.

BTW: I returned both my old and my June 2021 batteries to Costco. I have a battery analyzer which said both batteries were bad, however I found the results on the June 2021 battery confusing. I attached pictures of the results. The old battery, which was connected to the travel trailer with the shore power plugged in via 15amp adapter, tested bad at 13.08V. "Bad" with this analyzer means it won't hold a charge. The newer battery was attached to the Noco battery maintainer not attached to the trailer, just plugged into 110 outlet and tested bad at 12.67V.

I have no idea how your battery analyzer works. Some new designs use unusual battery measurements to determine status.

In the past, I would say the analyzer may not be useful for RV deep draw batteries. Most analyzers were designed to test engine start batteries.

I am also unfamiliar with the NOCO maintainer. Some maintainers are not capable of fast charging a large deep draw battery. They don’t have enough capacity to charge in a short period of time. However, they should all be able to keep a battery charged and eventually voltage should rise. 13.2 volts would be ideal for storage.

12.67 volts is still in the “good” range for storing lead acid batteries. A maintainer should raise the voltage eventually.

Do a full clean recharge with a high quality charger like the WFCO for 14 hours before voltage drops to 12.4 volts. However, a good charger should raise the voltage to 13.6 volts while charging or 13.2 volts for a maintainer. The WFCO charger has a complicated program that uses 14.4, 13.6, and 13.2 volts at different times during the charge cycle.

13.0 volts is excellent for storing disconnected. (If you’re in-line fuse is blown, then the battery is disconnected.) The battery is fully charged and should be good for 3 to 6 months in disconnected storage.

After I replace the in-line fuse, Can I plug into shore power safely with my battery leads disconnected like I have described (electrical tape covering the metal ends) or is there something safer you can recommend? I really don't need batteries until next spring.

Most new flooded cell batteries can be stored disconnected for 6 months. Used batteries should be good for 3 months or more.
Fully charge for 14 to 18 hours before disconnecting.
Check water level after charging. Charging consumes water.
Monitor terminal voltage periodically.
Recharge for 14 hours before voltage drops to 12.4 volts.

opinions on the lead acid battery shown as "new" in the picture from Costco (cost $79 each) vs an Interstate AGM battery from Costco MCA 940 (cost $170 each).

I like AGM batteries for RV deep draw use. That is my opinion and I am sticking to it. Now I will “duck and cover”. It is important to note that how you use them makes a big difference.
Pro:
AGM can be stored disconnected for up to 12 months.
AGM do not need to be checked and filled with water periodically
AGM tolerate RV deep draw better than flooded cell batteries.
AGM typically charge faster than deep draw gulf cart batteries.
AGM don’t vent flammable hydrogen gas.
Con:
AGM cost more.
Most AGM are sensitive to high voltage charging. “Conditioning” cycles and such can cause venting which results in permanent loss of capacity.

I will say I drilled holes in my battery box and while this will prevent rain water from filling the box, I still get water on top of the battery. Rain water couldn't be somehow getting into the lead acid battery water compartment and causing issues, could it? I was somehow considering that as a theory for battery malfunction, but I think the fuse is the key. …maybe a pandora's box, …

A little rain water on top of otherwise clean lead acid batteries is rarely an issue. However, you can cover leaking top vents with electrical tape if you are using AGM batteries. Flooded cells emit hydrogen gas when charging. AGM batteries do not. The vents prevent build up of flammable hydrogen in top spaces.

Asking for opinions on what battery type, is indeed the same as opening Pandora ’s box.
__________________
Paul Bristol
Kodiak Cub 176RD
Nissan Pathfinder 2015
Persistent is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
battery



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Storage questions battery related Kennzz05 Class A Motorhome Discussions 3 04-30-2017 11:42 AM
I have several questions related to towing a car behind my RV Bren10 Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 28 02-01-2017 09:35 AM
New TT owner, couple questions battery related. mdrndaynomad Travel Trailer Discussion 8 03-02-2014 07:10 PM
Which AGM Battery and Other Related Questions JDT Monaco Owner's Forum 29 01-08-2012 08:33 AM
Stainless trim & Other Related Questions 4386 Extreme limo Newmar Owner's Forum 6 01-06-2011 12:24 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:10 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.