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Old 12-04-2020, 08:18 AM   #1
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Battery wiring Scheme

Now I have 4 6v batteries wired in parallel \ series to give me 12v \ 450ah. Can I add 2 batteries of the same type\age to add to the AH without effecting the voltage? And would my wiring to the inverter have to be changed for more AH to a bigger wire?

Diagrams would help!!

Thanks!
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Old 12-04-2020, 09:25 AM   #2
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Is this the correct way?

Is the scheme below correct? Would it require any heavier wiring to inverter? Now I have 3/0 welding wire.
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Old 12-04-2020, 09:31 AM   #3
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You certainly can add two more batteries of the same age and type. It probably won't be ideal but it should work fine. Just put the two additional batteries in series and then attach the 12v + side of that pair to the 12v + side of the existing bank and the same for the negative. Use the same gauge wire currently in used on the other batteries. Do some googling and read up until you understand how a series/parallel battery bank is wired.

Nothing else will need to be changed. There is no extra current load created by this just more capacity to supply current.
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Old 12-04-2020, 09:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
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Is the scheme below correct? Would it require any heavier wiring to inverter? Now I have 3/0 welding wire.
That looks right. No need to change the wire to the inverter.

Verify your voltage to the inverter before connecting the inverter positive.
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Old 12-04-2020, 09:41 AM   #5
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Your inverter can only draw so much power at any given time , increasing the battery capacity will not require heavier wire to the inverter.
Now if you plan on a larger inverter , that's a different story.

Diagram looks good , 3 pairs of 2 , 6 volt batteries in series , with the pairs paralleled to the final hook up . Use your volt meter on the battery bank before the final ground connection is made.

The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)
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Old 12-04-2020, 09:50 AM   #6
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SWEET! Thanks guys!
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Old 12-05-2020, 06:28 AM   #7
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V2.0 Diagram

Would this be a slightly better scheme? Wires are same length and more symmetrical.
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Old 12-06-2020, 06:12 AM   #8
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Absolutely. That first one hurt my brain but would work. This one is more typical.

While you digging around make sure there is a fuse to the inverter and that it is in good shape. I've had problem with corroded ANL fuses.

Are you on a tight budget for this project? If not I find having a switch on my batteries very convenient. The coach cutoff switch typically doesn't cut off the inverter which can be a PITA if you need to work on the inverter.

I also pulled out my ANL and put in a type T fuse. They are marine grade.
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Old 12-06-2020, 08:49 AM   #9
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Below is the pics of fuses for my inverter connection(1st) and the chassis battery connection92nd). I am getting a solar setup from an Az company and its also including a breaker for the inverter connection. Could I remove the one in the pic after installing the new breaker?

Bussmann MRCB marine rated breaker, 200 Amps DC, 12-48 volts w/switch (48 volt MAX).
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Old 12-06-2020, 12:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rfg9585 View Post
Below is the pics of fuses for my inverter connection(1st) and the chassis battery connection92nd). I am getting a solar setup from an Az company and its also including a breaker for the inverter connection. Could I remove the one in the pic after installing the new breaker?

Bussmann MRCB marine rated breaker, 200 Amps DC, 12-48 volts w/switch (48 volt MAX).
Leave the originally fuse there. The T type fuse is required by the inverter (if you read the inverter manual, it should contain a section of installation instructions about a specific fuse to be used). The breaker your solar guy will put in has nothing to do with that T fuse. I would say don't mess with it, but YMMV.
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Old 12-07-2020, 06:35 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rfg9585 View Post
Below is the pics of fuses for my inverter connection(1st) and the chassis battery connection92nd). I am getting a solar setup from an Az company and its also including a breaker for the inverter connection. Could I remove the one in the pic after installing the new breaker?

Bussmann MRCB marine rated breaker, 200 Amps DC, 12-48 volts w/switch (48 volt MAX).
That is a class T fuse so no need to replace it.

Can not make out the disconnect and where it is wired but if it is disconnects the inverter you don't need a switch there either.
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Old 12-10-2020, 07:57 AM   #12
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Progress update:

Got the batteries wired up pretty much correct yesterday. There's a few more items on my list but overall its correct. Last major move was to wire house ground\hot to terminals opposing the inverter connections. I tested this overnight last night by running my fridge\lights and a little aquahot, and this am after about 14hrs they were still at 70-80%. This is much better that my previous setup with 4 batteries.

Can't wait to go boondocking!!
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Old 12-19-2020, 09:07 AM   #13
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Advice?

When I was connecting back all the wires to my house batteries, I noticed a gang of wires that were the ground(white) that appear to run to my DC fuse box in the bathroom. Now that I have also installed the victron BMV712 and its shunt should this wired be connected to the shunt instead of directly to the batteries? This being the case I'll bet the positive is also connected directly which I'm guessing it should be wired to the positive busbar?
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Old 12-19-2020, 10:03 AM   #14
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The negetive wired should be on the shunt or negetive bus bar and not on the batteries.
Nothing but a cable to the shunt on the negetive battery side.

On the positive, side it doesn't matter. The shunt only measures the current flow on the negetive side.
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