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Old 05-13-2021, 11:11 AM   #1
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Can I run my air conditioner without a thermostat

Can I run my air conditioner without a thermostat? Sena, my capuchin monkey, pulled the thermostat off the wall along with some of the wires.

I'd like to run my 10 year old Dometic air conditioner with a simple on/off switch instead of trying to snake wires back thru the ceiling and buy another thermostat. Can anyone tell me which wires to connect to?

Thanks!
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Old 05-13-2021, 11:27 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okmunky View Post
Can I run my air conditioner without a thermostat? Sena, my capuchin monkey, pulled the thermostat off the wall along with some of the wires.

I'd like to run my 10 year old Dometic air conditioner with a simple on/off switch instead of trying to snake wires back thru the ceiling and buy another thermostat. Can anyone tell me which wires to connect to?

Thanks!

Like your idea of constant white noise and thermostat delete as well. Important do be careful of icing and other issues that may create a dangerous condition.


Guess would be that if the heat function is not there, you don't have to worry about those wires. Damper is also probably just a passageway set for cooling so that should also be a non issue. All ya got to do is juice the compressor and fan and that should get you what you want again as to safety of this broom handle wedged on the gas pedal going down the road..... I
nteresting note a fellow had a boat style accelerator on his motor home as his foot got tired easily, he did not want to mess with a cruise control so that was it, control via a hand throttle that is set in place!



Here is a wiring diagram for a typical thermostat for you to figure things out from:
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Old 05-13-2021, 11:31 AM   #3
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Monkey is telling you it doesn't like being cold !
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Old 05-13-2021, 11:49 AM   #4
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Monkey is telling you it doesn't like being cold !
No, Sena did not like the cold. Sadly, I lost her to congestive heart failure and Valley Fever almost a year ago. She had been my baby, my second child for 23 years, but they were 23 very challenging years. She never let anything go without throughly exploring it, much to my frustration.
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Old 05-13-2021, 11:52 AM   #5
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Thanks! Diesel Lover

I'm headed to the roof to explore the wiring.
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Old 05-13-2021, 11:54 AM   #6
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Sorry for your loss!
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Old 05-13-2021, 02:36 PM   #7
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This photo is of the wiring as seen from below
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Old 05-13-2021, 02:39 PM   #8
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These two photos are from above with the cover removed. I do have a multimeter so I can find out which wires are hot, ground and neutral. Anyone want to suggest which wires I should tie directly into the switch?
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Old 05-13-2021, 03:25 PM   #9
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Don't you have a pic of the location of the thermostat and the wires that ran to it?



Or is there a set of wires that runs out of the AC and would/should have been running to the thermostat? Should be looking at some bare ends eh.
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Old 05-13-2021, 10:57 PM   #10
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Don't you have a pic of the location of the thermostat and the wires that ran to it?

Or is there a set of wires that runs out of the AC and would/should have been running to the thermostat? Should be looking at some bare ends eh.
No, Sena pulled about 18” of wires out of the wall and destroyed the thermostat. I tossed it in my ignorance. I'll try digging from the inside towards the location where the thermostat was tomorrow. I was hoping I could just come off the unit itself.
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Old 05-13-2021, 11:14 PM   #11
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Barb, Found this info, it might help you some. I think you'll want a switch for the compressor and other for the fan. Maybe two for low and high speed operations. You'll also need access to a hot 12v and ground lead somewhere in the process. I do not know if the hot and ground wires went directly from the fuse panel to the AC or went to the thermostat first and then to the AC. Perhaps someone else knows this for sure.

Consult the literature provided with the thermostat and the operator’s manual of your RV. Ensure the correct color-coded RV wires are connected to the correct numbered thermostat terminals. Normally, the terminals will have a screwdriver slot for securing the wires. The color-coded connections typically will be made as outlined in the following steps.

Step 2
Terminal 1 is typically ground to the vehicle’s neutral system. It will usually be black or blue. Use your voltage meter and the instruction literature that came with your RV and the thermostat to verify this.

Step 3
Terminal 2 is typically unused. Use the literature to verify this.

Step 4
Terminal 3 is typically hot, from the vehicle’s 12 volt system. It will usually be red. Use your voltage meter and literature to verify this.

Step 5
Terminal 4 is typically unused. Use the literature to verify this.

Step 6
Terminal 5 is typically the supply wire to the vehicle’s AC compressor. It will usually be yellow. Use your voltage meter and the literature to verify this.

Step 7
Terminal 6 is typically the supply wire to the blower fan’s high speed. It will usually be green. Use your voltage meter and the literature to verify this

Step 8
Terminal 7 is typically the supply wire to the blower fan’s low speed. It will usually be green. Use your voltage meter and the literature to verify this.

Terminal 8 is typically the supply wire to the vehicle’s furnace or electrical heater. It will usually be white. Use your voltage meter and the literature to verify this.

Good luck and take care where ever your are these days.


Fred
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Old 05-14-2021, 10:01 AM   #12
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Thanks Fred! I've missed seeing you and Denise! I now have property in Dateland, AZ. Y'all are invited to come and stay a while. It’s off grid but much more private than the BLM land.
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Old 05-14-2021, 11:47 AM   #13
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Thanks Fred! I've missed seeing you and Denise! I now have property in Dateland, AZ. Y'all are invited to come and stay a while. It’s off grid but much more private than the BLM land.
We may be getting down that way after it cools off. This summer we'll be largely in Colorado. In the fall hoping to get to the Pacific NW if weather and fires permit.
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