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Old 03-08-2015, 04:42 PM   #15
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Sounds like you have the engine heater on all the time to me...do you have one and is it plugged in or is the switch in the on position???? Some plug in to work others work on a switch???GlenB
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Old 03-08-2015, 04:51 PM   #16
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Ten amps is over 120 watts. Something should be getting very warm. Put your hand on your alternator to see if it is warm. It is extremely rare but a shorted diode in an alternator can do this.


Ten amps would run a battery down in hours, not days, so I suggest you take a closer look at your decimal on the meter.
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Old 03-08-2015, 04:52 PM   #17
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Sounds like you have the engine heater on all the time to me...do you have one and is it plugged in or is the switch in the on position???? Some plug in to work others work on a switch???GlenB

I suspect any engine heater would be supplied by a 110 volt source and not 12 volts.
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Old 03-08-2015, 05:23 PM   #18
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Three years ago when I bought my Itasca Suncruiser I complained that the chassis batteries drained very fast; dead in 3 to 4 days. The dealer “checked it out” and said everything was “fine”, that I just needed to use the disconnect switch. I thought that was a stupid design, but it was not the first stupidity in design I had found by then.

I’ve batted about 89% in remembering to throw the disconnect relay if the unit was going to sit for more than a couple of days. Consequently I quickly killed the batteries and they needed to be replaced.

While replacing the chassis batteries the sparking was tremendous, so I measured the resulting current and it pegged my 10 amp meter. Now I realize I can prevent the sparks by using the disconnect relay to switch into the 10+ amp draw but that seems awfully excessive.

Does anybody believe there should be a 10+ amp draw on the chassis batteries when nothing is on (ignition switch off and radio off)? That is, was the dealer right and I just need to be more diligent in using the disconnect switch if the unit will sit for more than two days?

I've learned which of the 4 wires, connected to the disconnect switch, that carries most of the load. But it will take a ton of work find out where it goes and what it is for. There are more wires connected to the disconnect switch than indicated in Winnebago's drawing. I do not want to do that work, if it is supposed to carry that much load when everything is off.

I think you're confusing "chassis" with "house". I'm pretty sure you have only one chassis battery- its primary job is to start your rv. I really think you are referring to the house batterie(s). If this is all correct, it shouldn't take more than an hour max to trace your problem. Make sure your batteries are charged, then with your vom connected to the pos and neg lugs at your 12v panel, begin pulling ea fuse- one at a time. Watch your vom for voltage drop after each fuse has been removed. When you pull ea fuse, record the voltage drop and plug the fuse back into the panel before you move on. I guarantee you'll find the problem. BTW, a 3 a. draw is excessive as a parasitic draw as well- that would indicate something like your fridge being on with it's door heater function activated...that is if you have a gas absorption model. I know if you follow this procedure, you'll get it done.
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Old 03-08-2015, 05:36 PM   #19
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I think you're confusing "chassis" with "house". I'm pretty sure you have only one chassis battery- its primary job is to start your rv. I really think you are referring to the house batterie(s). If this is all correct, it shouldn't take more than an hour max to trace your problem. Make sure your batteries are charged, then with your vom connected to the pos and neg lugs at your 12v panel, begin pulling ea fuse- one at a time. Watch your vom for voltage drop after each fuse has been removed. When you pull ea fuse, record the voltage drop and plug the fuse back into the panel before you move on. I guarantee you'll find the problem. BTW, a 3 a. draw is excessive as a parasitic draw as well- that would indicate something like your fridge being on with it's door heater function activated...that is if you have a gas absorption model. I know if you follow this procedure, you'll get it done.
I agree that he might be confusing the chassis "battery" with the house "batteries". He refers to "chassis batteries" in the plural and that's not right as there is, as you say, only one chassis battery. Again, as you say, there will be two house batteries.

Ten amps is what one of my air conditioners draws. Even three amps is too much. I agree with you guys posting above, something BIG is on all of the time. I also agree to start pulling fuses and see which circuit is causing the draw.
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Old 03-08-2015, 06:43 PM   #20
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A ten amp parasitic drain is way too much. Should be in the range of 0.100 to 0.150 amps. Mine runs about 0.140.
It sounds like something like compartment bay lights are on all the time. There aren't many things that draw ten amps that can be on and you not be aware of it.
A compartment light was one of my drains. All the others would shut off when the door closed, that one had a bad door switch.
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:08 PM   #21
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To aauummm:

My bad. On the drawings. A couple of years ago that link did not have the 2010 listed. I contacted Winnebago, and they told me to use 2009 as close enough. I downloaded that 2009 file and never went back to the site. Apparently, since then, they have released a set of 2010 to 2015 drawings. Thanks for letting me know.

However even this updated drawing is not what is built. If you examine Drawing 169930 there is a terminal in detail EB (the chassis battery disconnect) that lists “CHASSIS ASM (PUR), CHASSIS POWER CABLE, & CHASSIS DASH POWER” being connected to it. There are actually four RED wires connected to that terminal, none are Purple which I assume is what the “PUR” stands for. Perhaps two of the wires make up what is called “CHASSIS ASM (PUR)”.

Regardless, I cannot figure out from the drawing why four wires are attached here. Tues I will trace it down the old fashion way. But I do appreciate knowing that at least there has been an attempt to release the appropriate wring diagram.
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:50 PM   #22
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To all.

First is there a consensus with Clay L’s opinion that the drain should be between 0.1 and 0.15 amps?? I ask because of the 4 wires connected to the load side of the disconnect relay, one draws 0.0 amps (presumable it goes to the starter), one draws 0.05 amps, one draws 0.35 amps, and the fourth pegs the 10 amp setting. I’ve used two different ammeters and the reading are within 15% of each other. So even if I fix the one wire, the combined load of the other 2 would be 0.4 amps is that unusually high?

I am NOT confusing the house with the chassis batteries. The unit is on a Freightliner chassis with a diesel engine therefore there are two chassis batteries.

I know that the meter(s) I am using are not very accurate when it comes to current. Especially for currents over an amp. I also agree that 10 amps is a lot of power to go unnoticed if it is just heat. However I believe that the combined amp hour rating of the two chassis batteries is 600 amp hours, and brand new they would go below 7.5 volts in 3 days. I learned this on the first outing. When I tried to start the engine and then used the batter boost button and that did not work. A call to the dealer reviled that if the chassis batteries are below 7.5 volts the battery boost relay will not work. At that time I assumed I had left something on, besides not using the battery disconnect. But since the I have been pretty diligent. Naturally the time go and still have at least 7.5 volts reduced in time. It Finally got to the point that I could not, forget to use the battery disconnect for more than a few hours, before they were below 7.5 volts. That is when I decided to replace them and that is what caused me to learn of the high drain.

So while the actual parastatic draw may not be above 10 amps it is likely well over 5 amps

As for compartment lights they are not on, and even if they were they are all LEDs.
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:56 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by pokgunner View Post
To aauummm:

My bad. On the drawings. A couple of years ago that link did not have the 2010 listed. I contacted Winnebago, and they told me to use 2009 as close enough. I downloaded that 2009 file and never went back to the site. Apparently, since then, they have released a set of 2010 to 2015 drawings. Thanks for letting me know.

However even this updated drawing is not what is built. If you examine Drawing 169930 there is a terminal in detail EB (the chassis battery disconnect) that lists “CHASSIS ASM (PUR), CHASSIS POWER CABLE, & CHASSIS DASH POWER” being connected to it. There are actually four RED wires connected to that terminal, none are Purple which I assume is what the “PUR” stands for. Perhaps two of the wires make up what is called “CHASSIS ASM (PUR)”.

Regardless, I cannot figure out from the drawing why four wires are attached here. Tues I will trace it down the old fashion way. But I do appreciate knowing that at least there has been an attempt to release the appropriate wring diagram.
No problem and good luck on your quest!
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Old 03-08-2015, 10:57 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by pokgunner View Post
To all.

First is there a consensus with Clay L’s opinion that the drain should be between 0.1 and 0.15 amps?? I ask because of the 4 wires connected to the load side of the disconnect relay, one draws 0.0 amps (presumable it goes to the starter), one draws 0.05 amps, one draws 0.35 amps, and the fourth pegs the 10 amp setting. I’ve used two different ammeters and the reading are within 15% of each other. So even if I fix the one wire, the combined load of the other 2 would be 0.4 amps is that unusually high?

I am NOT confusing the house with the chassis batteries. The unit is on a Freightliner chassis with a diesel engine therefore there are two chassis batteries.

I know that the meter(s) I am using are not very accurate when it comes to current. Especially for currents over an amp. I also agree that 10 amps is a lot of power to go unnoticed if it is just heat. However I believe that the combined amp hour rating of the two chassis batteries is 600 amp hours, and brand new they would go below 7.5 volts in 3 days. I learned this on the first outing. When I tried to start the engine and then used the batter boost button and that did not work. A call to the dealer reviled that if the chassis batteries are below 7.5 volts the battery boost relay will not work. At that time I assumed I had left something on, besides not using the battery disconnect. But since the I have been pretty diligent. Naturally the time go and still have at least 7.5 volts reduced in time. It Finally got to the point that I could not, forget to use the battery disconnect for more than a few hours, before they were below 7.5 volts. That is when I decided to replace them and that is what caused me to learn of the high drain.

So while the actual parastatic draw may not be above 10 amps it is likely well over 5 amps

As for compartment lights they are not on, and even if they were they are all LEDs.
Since you had mentioned in your original post that you have an Itasca Suncruiser I assumed that it was a gas engine. As most of those are built on the F53 or Workhorse. I didn't know that a Suncruiser was ever built on a Freightliner chassis. New one on me!

I should have asked which chassis you had- if we'd have known that info initially we wouldn't have wondered if you had the house and chassis batteries confused!

PS-just now checked the brochure for the 2010 Suncruiser and see that a front engine diesel (FRED) was an option. I learn something new every day!
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Old 03-09-2015, 12:07 AM   #25
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What would draw 10 amps on batteries?

Bad diode in alternator maybe but isolator should isolate it.

A leaking isolator

Headlamps

Bay lights

Power window motor stalled...if kry not needed

The extra wire could be field added or could be direct connection to converter or inverter.

Look in other bays for same type of wire.
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Old 03-09-2015, 07:02 AM   #26
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Since you had mentioned in your original post that you have an Itasca Suncruiser I assumed that it was a gas engine. As most of those are built on the F53 or Workhorse. I didn't know that a Suncruiser was ever built on a Freightliner chassis. New one on me!

I should have asked which chassis you had- if we'd have known that info initially we wouldn't have wondered if you had the house and chassis batteries confused!

PS-just now checked the brochure for the 2010 Suncruiser and see that a front engine diesel (FRED) was an option. I learn something new every day!

OK.....I think the OP should either call Winne or likely Freightliner and briefly describe the problem to a tech. The troubleshooting should still be the same procedure but the advice you get may help point to the problem faster. Before we go on...is this in fact a FREIGHTLINER F.R.E.D. Chassis?
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Old 03-09-2015, 09:25 AM   #27
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Yes it is a Freightliner Fred chassis, I am told that they only made 10 and only in 2010, It did not sell well because of the extra price. I now love the chassis. I said 'now' because at first it was way too under powered. But then Cummin's reprogrammed it and added something like 300 ft lbs (I do not remember exact amount). I also do not remember the exact cost but it was something like $400. Most of that was just to continue the warranty.

As for the electric issue, I plan on spending tomorrow on it until I find the problem.
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Old 03-09-2015, 09:52 AM   #28
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Yes it is a Freightliner Fred chassis, I am told that they only made 10 and only in 2010, It did not sell well because of the extra price. I now love the chassis. I said 'now' because at first it was way too under powered. But then Cummin's reprogrammed it and added something like 300 ft lbs (I do not remember exact amount). I also do not remember the exact cost but it was something like $400. Most of that was just to continue the warranty.

As for the electric issue, I plan on spending tomorrow on it until I find the problem.
In looking at the Freightliner brochure for the 300 hp diesel I see that it does not have glow plugs. However it does have an integrated combustion air heater. Maybe there is a problem with that?

I think that you would get a lot of responses with more info if this thread were posted in the Freightliner Chassis Forum. A direct call to Freightliner or Cummins might be a good idea also.
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