Quote:
Originally Posted by garyb1st
Our Sharp convection microwave stops working after 59 seconds. I've read this in a common problem. The DW never uses the convection feature so am thinking may just a standard microwave which is a bunch cheaper.
Regardless, I've got to remove the unit which I've read is pretty heavy. Also I'm not sure how it's secured. Anyone remove a unit and able to provide some helpful hints.
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Normally there is no trim covering anything on the sides. It is a snug fit, with the cabinets butting up to it on both sides. There should be a trim panel over the top that is 4"-6" by the width of the microwave. Which by the way is 29 7/8", 1/8" smaller than a standard 30" microwave.
The unit is held in with 2 20" long bolts that come up from the bottom. Remove the vent screens that are on the bottom of the oven and you will see them. I believe they have 7/16 bolt heads. The unit also sits into a mounting bracket on the back that has a small lip on it. After you remove the 2 bolts, with another person holding the microwave up and back, the two of you can lift it up and out. Have cardboard or blocks to set it down on.
It is about twice the weight of a standard microwave. When mine went on my 2000 HR I looked everywhere for something cheaper to replace it. Since my opening was too small to put a 30" microwave in, the choice was to go to a small apartment size or do some major modifications to the cabinet. Also, since there is no cabinet support under it, it just hangs on a bracket that is fastened to the wall. Frequently there will be a bracket across the top, near the front to add a little extra support to the front. In theory, the bouncing in a motorhome, with time could cause the bracket to loosen a little letting the front of the oven to drop, making it unlevel in a level coach.
I've never seen any other microwave fasten this way. I looked at every under-the-cabinet microwave, and microwave convection in several brands. Since a decent under the cabinet was around $350, I sprung for the direct replacement Sharp at $500. It was a straightaway bolt-in. Fit just like the original, was a considerable upgrade from the 15-year-old unit that I replaced. I did not even change the heavy metal bracket that holds it to the wall.
Just a thought. It is usually the control board that fails. They can be repaired but an electronics shop may flinch. I took my old one with me to Mexico, as we have lots of electronics repaired there. Repair to the control board was $35. The local Canadian RV tech from Canada had it rebuilt, put it in his inventory, and every time one craps out on him down there, he swaps it out and takes the bad one back to the electronics shop.
http://files.sharpusa.com/Downloads/...448.1562126481