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Old 08-15-2022, 03:37 PM   #1
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Dometic 2652

I looked around and did not find what I needed help with....and of course I only come here when I need help..
My Dometic quit working. Watched all the videos and did have a blown fuse. I changed that and traced all. I have good 120v, 12v and propane is working. No yellow stuff anywhere.
Now what? Not real sure what step is next.. Pro?
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Old 08-15-2022, 03:45 PM   #2
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Basics.........

Fridge in AUTO?
Fridge Level?
Does it cool using AC ?
Does freezer get cold?
How long has it been running on GAS?


See pgs 4 & 5 for Troubleshooting
http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...ual-RM2652.pdf
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Old 08-15-2022, 03:50 PM   #3
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Basics.........

Fridge in AUTO? yes, tried both..
Fridge Level? yes
Does it cool using AC ? not cooling at all
Does freezer get cold? No
How long has it been running on GAS? I try to keep it plugged in when parked.
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Old 08-16-2022, 07:17 AM   #4
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Thermistor maybe?
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Old 08-16-2022, 08:03 AM   #5
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TexasTwoStep..is that testable?
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Old 08-16-2022, 10:12 AM   #6
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My problem turned out to be the control board. Replaced it and all is fine now. The thermistor can be unplugged from the board and checked with ohm meter. Mine was around 10K ohm. I'd think about any value less than an open circuit would be OK. Can't recall where the numbers came from but memory has values between 6K and 15K (temperature dependent).
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Old 08-16-2022, 10:35 AM   #7
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Bad thermistor on Dometic 2652 would cause 2 things:
Fridge going into BOS (backup Operating System) which allows fridge to continue to cool
Overcooling due to BOS which allows continuous cooling to occur

WHICH fuse was Blown?
3A DC Fuse or the 5A AC Fuse


Did you go thru the Troubleshooting steps and try to pin point your problem?
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Old 08-16-2022, 07:25 PM   #8
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5 amp..
I went back with a 5 amp, 250 volt fb. Did not have the colored stripes like OEM.
Old Biscuit, I went through all troubleshooting I found. All amps and voltage read correctly, gas lit with no issues. Just not cooling.
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Old 08-16-2022, 09:05 PM   #9
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Unplug the thermistor leads at the P2 connection on lower circuit board

Run fridge on Electric
*verify you have 120VAC at the outlet, between J5 (Hot) & J6 (Neutral) on lower circuit board, thru the 5A fuse and then between J7 (neutral) & J8 (hot) leads to the AC element

Let run for several hours....freezer should get cold.....then few hours longer and food compartment should get cold
*bad thermistor if fridge gets cold


OR if you know thermistor is working you can Try a Force Cool Test
Unplug fridge power cord from outlet, turn fridge OFF
Unplug element leads from J7/J8 terminals
Plug them into the outlet....this energizes the element continuously, bypassing ALL controls.
Run for 12 hrs.
Fridge gets REALLY cold ---bad circuit board
Fridge does NOT get really cold...bad cooling unit
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Old 08-17-2022, 08:25 AM   #10
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I have touched so many things...
I also unplugged from the on board power and plugged into an extension cord.
I will go through the steps you have defined. Probably not today as it is pouring rain.
Thanks for all the information. I will let you know what I find.
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Old 09-15-2022, 02:57 PM   #11
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Just a follow up. I now have a new "scratch and dent" refrigerator. Got it about a week ago. It is in the camper but not installed yet.
On the old one the burn chamber was totally rusted out. I was going to get the replacement cooling unit but found the s & d for $100.00 more. Hope to get it replaced this weekend. We have had a monsoon season in the South this year. First dry weekend coming up in a while.
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