Dometic 2652 not heating... changed element.

[travis3030]

Ok, so I've had a cooling issue with my Dometic 2652 2way refrigerator. It works fine on LP/12v but doesn't work on 120V and the element is fine. I've ohm the element and it checks out... turns out that I'm not getting 120V to the element. The 5amp fuse checks out okay as well... so my question is, what would be keep the element from getting 120V? I'm guessing a bad board...

I've bypassed the board by connecting the element directly to 120V and it will cool that way. Which leads to my other question... can i just let the element run 24/7 for a ~4day camping trip? What's the downside to letting it run 24/7 for 4 days or less?

Thanks

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by travis3030

Ok, so I've had a cooling issue with my Dometic 2652 2way refrigerator. It works fine on LP/12v but doesn't work on 120V and the element is fine. I've ohm the element and it checks out... turns out that I'm not getting 120V to the element. The 5amp fuse checks out okay as well... so my question is, what would be keep the element from getting 120V? I'm guessing a bad board...
Did you check that board is getting 120V AC----outlet fridge plugged into has 120V AC?????

You can check for AC on circuit board and out to element
J5 ----AC Line Voltage (black)
J6 ----AC Neutral Line (White)

J7 ----AC Neutral OUT to element
J8 ----AC Line OUT to element (switched side)

I've bypassed the board by connecting the element directly to 120V and it will cool that way. Which leads to my other question... can i just let the element run 24/7 for a ~4day camping trip? What's the downside to letting it run 24/7 for 4 days or less?

Bypassing 'circuit board' checks that cooling unit is functioning BUT removes ALL 'safety' features and 'temp controls'

No low amp fuse to blow (5A)..........but outlet is protected by a higher amp circuit breaker. Should element short higher amp draw (fire potential) would occur before CB tripped (15A).

Fridge will 'continuously' cool so food compartment temps will go before 32*F and items would freeze up because circuit board/thermistor/thermostat are bypassed.

Thanks

Other than concerns listed..........why not run it on propane with circuit board not bypassed ?


Here is 'service manual'..............pg 13 lower board
http://www.fourwh.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf

[travis3030]

Thanks for the reply...

I'll elaborate a little on what I'm doing and why.

So, on the j5 connector where the 120v power is supplied, I've left it connected to the board so that the board still has 120v power and is still protected by the 5A fuse. On the j6 connector where the neutral for the 120v feed is typically connected, I connected one end of the 120v heating element. The other end of the 120v element I connected directly to the neutral of the 120v source. My logic for doing that is that the board still has 120v power, is still protected by the 5A fuse and the element has 120v power to operate the refrigerator on 120v. Using 120v power cost me nothing since it's included in the campsite price... vs LP which I can empty a tank in about 3 or 4 days.

My main question is, are there any issues with just letting the refrigerator element run constantly for about 4 days or so?

[Waiter21]

There shouldn't be any problems ...

The Dometic control board does this when it senses a problem with the temperature sensor, it turns on the heating element and leaves it on.

I loved my old Dometic that didn't have a control board. I had to select 120 volts or propane manually, If I selected propane, it had a clicker/sparker to light the burner. No automatic, no control board.

[travis3030]

awesome... thanks for the feedback!

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by travis3030

Thanks for the reply...

I'll elaborate a little on what I'm doing and why.

So, on the j5 connector where the 120v power is supplied, I've left it connected to the board so that the board still has 120v power and is still protected by the 5A fuse. On the j6 connector where the neutral for the 120v feed is typically connected, I connected one end of the 120v heating element. The other end of the 120v element I connected directly to the neutral of the 120v source. My logic for doing that is that the board still has 120v power, is still protected by the 5A fuse and the element has 120v power to operate the refrigerator on 120v. Using 120v power cost me nothing since it's included in the campsite price... vs LP which I can empty a tank in about 3 or 4 days.

My main question is, are there any issues with just letting the refrigerator element run constantly for about 4 days or so?

As I stated...........
Fridge will 'continuously' cool so food compartment temps will go before 32*F and items would freeze up because circuit board/thermistor/thermostat are bypassed.


Where are you getting the 120V AC power to hot lead on element?

You stated :
On the j6 connector where the neutral for the 120v feed is typically connected, I connected one end of the 120v heating element. The other end of the 120v element I connected directly to the neutral of the 120v source.

IF one lead is connected directly to a 120V AC source (vs neutral as posted) then circuit board controls are bypassed cause the FUSE is on HOT not neutral leg.

And if J5 is HOT and J6 is good neutral.......have you checked whether J7 is a good neutral and J8 a good hot (when AC is selected/ON)???



LP.......empty in 3-4 days
Not from using the fridge on propane.