Dometic 310 Toilet

[mrboyer]

Our toilet has not been holding water. Checked it out today and found that the “ball valve” which is really a blade was cracked right down the center. Looked on internet for replacement part and had to call Dometic. The part is not replaceable. Just another reason to never buy Dometic anything.

[Gary RVRoamer]

I guess they don't think the "power flush" component is user-serviceable. But at $177 (Amazon)for an entire new toilet, maybe the whole thing is considered a disposable unit.


https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-Stand...dp/B008K6I1RU/

[Old-Biscuit]

Both the 310 & 320 models are that way..entry level with few replaceable parts .
Plus side........parts that are replaceable are very easy DIY


Entry level toilets...simple.

[Forkyfork]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Both the 310 & 320 models are that way..entry level with few replaceable parts .
Plus side........parts that are replaceable are very easy DIY


Entry level toilets...simple.

I threw a lot of time and money at my sealand before giving up and letting it ruin my floor and replacing it with a 320.

Having replacement parts isn't all that. I went into the dometic knowing the only thing I can replace is the seal for the flapper. Fine with me, I spent more time haunched around that darn Sealand trying to get it to not leak between the bowl and pedestal that I don't want to ever do that again.

Not sure how one would crack the flapper or blade. I would hope that can be avoided with careful use. I do know that I would be trying some epoxy or peanut butter before giving up.

[JFXG]

I believe the non-replaceable decision relates to the need to separate the bowl from the pedestal in order to mount the new part. With all but the most skilled DIYers this would result in post repair leaks or broken bowls, etc., etc., and more complaints, problems, and costs for Dometic. They chose the lesser evil.

Now, as to this “entry level” stuff. That title implies that there is a higher position in the product line to which customers should aspire. What kind of product? Perhaps something with an electronic sensor or two that can fail to function properly at an inopportune time? Or maybe a macerator pump that can not quite thoroughly grind all that waste prior to trying to pump it through a 1 inch hose? Or refuse to pump it at all, or maybe just refuse to flush when you have guests for dinner because one of those sensors thinks the tank is full when you just emptied it this afternoon?
If your “upgrade” from entry level buys you only bragging rights for your more sophisticated toilet, or merely a token increase in convenience (as long as everything works right), then I don’t view that as an upgrade at all. Nice and simple, minimal parts, naught to go wrong. Occam’s razor, my friend. Occam’s razor.

[RV-Writer]

Someone mentioned peanut butter.

My seal seems to be leaking too. The bowl wont hold water. Any thoughts on things to try?

thanks

[Forkyfork]

Originally Posted by RV-Writer

Someone mentioned peanut butter.

My seal seems to be leaking too. The bowl wont hold water. Any thoughts on things to try?

thanks

The great peanut butter thread.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f106/pean...wl-345792.html

[Jpols]

My 310 wasn't holding water in the bowl so I did the recommended things, replaced the bowl seal, tried silicone spray on ball valve/seal, tried cooking oil, etc. My issue is that the flush ball does not close all the way with normal use of the pedal. After releasing the pedal, the flush ball stops with a tiny gap still there towards back of seal. If I reach in and with minimal finger pressure, the ball valve will close another inch, and no leak. The only way I can get it to close all the way, is to slide my foot off the pedal and let it really snap shut. It seems there is play on the shaft from wear? Wonder if anyone has experience with a fix for this as the parts aren't replaceable?