Dometic/A&E Slide Topper End Caps Repair

[Knightly]

2007 Itasca Sunrise 35A, W24 chassis, 3 slides:
Repairing Dometic slide toppers, Model #86111CQ.0271-B
There are threads describing replacing awning motors or awning fabric. However, I needed to repair the end caps on my slide toppers only and could not find any previous repair information. I was unable to buy the required end caps from Dometic without also purchasing the torsion springs. The end caps would cost around $6.00 usd each but one must purchase the end caps and torsion springs together at a cost of approximately $100.00 usd each. I have 3 slides so would require 6 end caps c/w torsion springs for a total of $600.00 usd., slide topper material is extra.
The problem that I was experiencing was that the center hole in the end caps wore in an oblong shape so the topper slide drum would wobble up and down when being retracted or extended. The following explanation and photos illustrate the repair made to my kitchen slide:
1. Open slide about one foot
2. Pin torsion spring through each end cap (Very important)
3. Remove brackets from side of RV and unravel tube
4. Leave fabric attached to RV. Slide complete tube assembly off of fabric.
5. Clamp tube assembly in large vise or workhorse clamp.
6. Grab end bracket to relieve torque pressure, pull out pin and count revolutions as spring unwinds. Repeat for other end. Should be about 12 turns to completely relieve torque.
7. Drive out pin holding end bracket onto torsion shaft.
8. Drill out 3 rivets and remove end cap and slide off of shaft.
9. I then sanded protrusion off of end cap until completely flush using bench mounted disc sander.
10. Using Iron Grip Glue, available from Home Depot, glue penny type washer on end centering hole with worn, oblong hole on end cap. Washer hole should be same diameter as end of torsion shaft
11. Once glue has set, pop rivet washer onto end cap using four small rivets. (see pictures)
12. Re-assemble in reverse order, re-rivet end cap onto tube.
13. The slide topper will retract/extend like new, cost pennies.
I realize the explanation is not the best but I hope you are able to get the idea.

[mdvs]

I noticed that my back slide was catching on something when I put it in and out. I found that I have the same issue which caused the anti-roll arm to hit because of the oblong hole. I looked at the front slide and have found the same wear but not as advanced. I like your solution and will give it a try. Could the washers have been placed on the inside of the end caps? I ask this because there are spacers on the end roller rods that may not allow space for the washer.
What amount of wear did you find on the end rod?
My end caps look like there was a plastic bushing in the hole for the rod.
I'll find out more when I take them off.

[Knightly]

Hello mdvs,


The washers that I used on the end cap will not fit on the inside. A smaller diameter washer with same center hole might fit on the inside of the end cap however I wanted enough material left for riveting. I used a "penny type" washer, 1 3/8's" OD with a 5/32" center hole. The washer was centered + glued on the outside of the cap. Once the glue was dried, I further attached the washer using four small pop rivets. I gently disc sanded down the end caps approximately 1/16", so once glued on the end the total thickness of the washer plus cap remains the same as the original cap.

I did find a small amount of wear on the torsion spring axle but not enough to warrant the cost of replacing the entire torsion spring assembly. Once the repair is completed, the topper awning rolls perfectly in both directions with no noticeable wobble.


The plastic "bushings" are actually spacers. They do not fit in the hole. They provide a bumper between the arm and end cap.


Please feel free to email any further questions. This site has helped me with so many projects that I am glad to help somebody else.
It is a fun project with a great result at almost no cost!


Good luck, Knightly

[mdvs]

Thanks for the information. We had an outing planned for labor day weekend and I didn't have time to do the full repair. As a quick fix I used epoxy putty to fill the wear slot in the end cap while installed on the motor home. I used a trimmed pop-sickle stick to form the putty into the slot against the end rod (had to be small enough to fit through the small end cap holes) and made sure not to block the rod hole so I can lock the spring for removal later. I also used a thin piece of plastic on the end to keep the putty from sticking to the plastic washer outside the end cap.
The oil on the rod prevented the putty from sticking to it. I used a little extra so that the putty could not push out in either direction (overlapped the edges). The putty was rock hard in 1 hour and I was able to smoothly use the slide with out any problems from the topper. I'll work on the toppers this fall when I put the motor home into storage. FYI: I used the JB weld steel putty.

[mdvs]

I'm going to investigate using the epoxy putty instead of the washers when I take off the end caps. If the temp fix with the putty has held up I might be able to use the epoxy putty to fill the end cap bump (the part you had to grind off to put the washers on) and wear slot. It will depend on how much area I have to work with. I believe the putty will hold up as long as it doesn't pop out of the end cap. Obviously your solution with the glue and pop rivets is not going anywhere. Thanks again for the information and great pictures. If anyone is interested I can post pictures of the end cap I repaired with the epoxy putty.

[Knightly]

I would be interested in pictures of your repair using epoxy putty, especially the final repair method. It sounds like it is an easier solution. I have another slide topper that needs attention. It is not worn as badly so using the epoxy putty might be the way to go. Thanks.

[pattcook]

Another easy repair method is to take a fender washer that is close to correct size and cut a groove from the outside to the center the same width as the center hole diameter. Slide the groove over the end cap and spring end with the groove facing opposite the side where the hole in the end cap has elongated. Attatch to the end cap with 3 self tapping screws. Takes about 30 mins and is basically the same as taking the whole thing apart.

[Dispatch6350]

My method of repairing worn end caps with a repair plate. Different in that mine have a recess to accept the raised boss on the OEM end cap. No grinding of OEM end cap required, just set in place and attach with drill screws.

[Knightly]

Reply to Dispatch 6350.

It is nice to get another idea plus update this thread. It has been almost 3 years since I first posted. So far, my repair has held up 100%. However, I like your idea. It looks great and less work. My only problem is that I do not have a welder. Nice job though

[Dispatch6350]

Thanks Knighly, it was your post that inspired me to take on the repair.

[Dwellion]

I am so glad I found this thread after doing a Google Search, because this is the exact problem I discovered with my topper just today! I had noticed no problems with my slide topper until I replaced the fabric. Afterwards, while moving the slide either direction, the anti-billowing lever began hitting the mounting bar causing the entire thing to bind. The repair parts are no longer available so I would have to replace the entire topper assy. I suspect the small bushings/grommets cracked or broke when we were working with the fabric because it was working fine before. This just goes to show that great ideas are always great ideas! Thanks, gentlemen!!