Dometic Absorption Fridge 12v Power Consumption

[aether_one]

Originally Posted by orangeminnie

Only fridge draw, yes. No fan or light. Determined by the differential between fridge on and fridge off, as measured in W or A with a BMV712. I'll try an inline ammeter at the fuse panel, (in place of the fuse) next, for the most accurate measurement.

Except in some RVs the furnace and fridge are on the same fuse.

[orangeminnie]

Originally Posted by tfryman

Except in some RVs the furnace and fridge are on the same fuse.

You're right. Mine is one of them. But even on the µa scale, I'm seeing no current with the fridge and furnace turned off by their usual switches. That's good news.


It's great hanging out with smart folks that I can learn from. Thanks!

[towersk]

Yes - Take a look at the schematic in my above post. The Dometic fridge in my last trailer had a switch for the door heater. But why not save a couple of cents when the extra power comes from someone elses power budget!

You easily could put a switch inside the refrigerator compartment to disconnect it, but will also disconnect the light. If you do not have high humidity the cabinet edges may not sweat.

[SteveJ.]

Originally Posted by orangeminnie

Only fridge draw, yes. No fan or light, or ice maker. Determined by the differential between fridge on and fridge off, as measured in W or A with a BMV712.
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Today I measured inline current draw at the fuse panel, in place of the fuse (with a good Fluke multimeter). At 13.11V: 435ma/5.7W with solenoid off, 655ma/8.6W with solenoid on. No measureable amperage with fridge turned off at the pushbutton.

Does my model have the door heater? I don't see any switch to turn it off.

When the fridge is off, my remaining parasitic loads total 3W. Not bad considering I have a radio and a BMV that are backlit 24/7, an MPPT and TPMS wifi booster that are always on, and the usual gas leak detectors.

Sorry, can't help at all on regards to a door heater.

I would take a good look at the schematic that was posted up for a wire leading to it if you might have one and put a remote switch on it if equipped with one. Without knowing better though, I'd be thinking that would be a pretty light draw for a heater. But...?