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Old 09-04-2021, 06:36 AM   #1
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Dometic fridge Model RM2807

Hi,
I am newbie to the RV world.
I recently acquired an old Model A motorhome and I am in the process of trying to get it livable.
I'm starting with the onboard appliances beginning with the fridge.
I managed get it going on the gas mode but after 5- 6 seconds it would shut off and begin sparking again and restart for another 5-6'seconds.
This unit hasn't been used for a couple of years. After reading any material I could find I was confident the ignite/sensor probe was faulty. I got a new one but unfortunately the same situation repeated itself.
I'm not sure what to do now. I don't want to keep buying new parts without fixing the problem.
Any ideas or suggestions would be most welcome.
Thanks.
Barb
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Old 09-04-2021, 08:32 AM   #2
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Welcome to RV'ing...
I think you meant to say you have a "Class" A (a model A would be very old...) But it would explain why the "ice box" doesn't work...

More than likely it is your thermocouple. It senses if the flame is flaming.

It works like this:
You turn on your fridge and gas starts to flow... shortly, after that, the control board sends voltage spikes to the igniter, causing sparks which ignite the fuel/air mix (it takes a very short while) It continues for a few seconds while the thermocouple heats up from the flame and sends a signal back to the control board "THE FLAME'S ON"!
At the point the board continues to monitor the thermocouple resistance (which is lowered because of the heat), until one of these situations is discovered.

1: Flame sensor thermocouple stops sending the "Flame On" signal
(meaning the flame went out for some reason, ie: Out of gas, or, the Flue is clogged) or;
2: The thermostat (inside the 'fridge) says the fridge is cold enough... (Not likely).

So, if the Thermocouple has gone bad the control board will register "no flame" and shut down to start the cycle over again.
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Old 09-04-2021, 08:45 AM   #3
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Especially as it has been sitting a while it's quite probable that there could be sider webs, rust or other scuzz in a) the burner tube, b) orifice, c) the chimney on top of the boiler.

When cleaning the orifice do not attempt to stick anything in the hole(metal for sure), a soak in alcohol is one way clean it.

I would start with the above before shotgunning more parts at it.
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Old 09-04-2021, 09:08 AM   #4
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The previous two posts offer good advice.

Your model refrigerator uses an electronic spark igniter and a thermocouple to start and maintain a flame in the burner. If, for any reason, the thermocouple does not send current to the control board, the burner will shut down and a restart cycle begins. This will happen three times, then the refrigerator will "lock out," and it must be turned OFF, then back ON to try again.

Since the burner initially ignites, you know the electrode is good, your gas valve is good, and gas flow is good, up to a point. However, if there is air in the lines from extended periods of non-usage, an air bubble may be the issue. Try lighting a burner on the stove top and allow it to burn for a short bit. That will ensure the gas lines are filling with propane. Then, try the refrigerator again. If it still cycles and shuts down, the most likely suspect is the thermocouple. Relatively cheap and easy to replace.

If the thermocouple is replaced and gas flow is uninterrupted, the next suspect would be the control board, but that's down the road a bit.

Here is a link to a service manual and owners manual for your refrigerator if you need/want more details. https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.c...ometic-rm2807/
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Old 09-04-2021, 10:14 AM   #5
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Thermocouple........flame sensing
Needs to be CLEAN of soot/carbon build up....clean it using some emery cloth
Needs to be engulfed in flame...tip get hot so it generates a milliamp current to prove flame is lit

New thermocouple
https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...ple-2931826016
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Old 09-04-2021, 11:49 AM   #6
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Can't thank you enough for explaining how the process works, now I have an understanding. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old 09-07-2021, 10:35 AM   #7
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Yes, you called it right. It was the thermocoupler. I replaced it and now has a continuous flame. Thank you.
The bad news. Fridge is not getting cold. Like I said before it's been sitting for a couple of years. What should I check first. The indicator lights on the front of the fridge come on and seem to be functioning correctly, but isn't getting cold
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Old 09-07-2021, 10:39 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbie1952 View Post
Yes, you called it right. It was the thermocoupler. I replaced it and now has a continuous flame. Thank you.
The bad news. Fridge is not getting cold. Like I said before it's been sitting for a couple of years. What should I check first. The indicator lights on the front of the fridge come on and seem to be functioning correctly, but isn't getting cold
Can take 12hrs or longer to fully cool both compartments
*freezer has to get down to 10*F before food compartment can effectively cool down (freezer 1st in cooling process)

After 4 hrs freezer plate on back wall should be getting cold, FINS in food compartment should be cool
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Old 09-07-2021, 02:24 PM   #9
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Left it for 24 hrs. No go
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Old 09-07-2021, 08:36 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Barbie1952 View Post
Left it for 24 hrs. No go
OK.......
Did freezer get cold and food compartment didn't
OR Neither freezer/food compartment got cold??

Couple easy tests to check if fridge can cool down
1st one is to unplug the thermistor leads at lower circuit board (P2 connection---upper right side of board---WHITE Wires)
**Thermistor is the Temp Sensor that thermostat & circuit board use to control fridge temps. No sensing then fridge runs continuously. (run for 12hrs)

If fridge cools down....replace the thermistor
Goggle Snip-The-Tip Dometic Fridge


2nd test if fridge doesn't cool down is to Force cool it
Unplug the AC heater Element Leads from lower circuit board (J7 & J8 Terminals--WHITE Leads)
Plug element leads directly into the 120VAC outlet...this will energize the element continuously, bypass all controls
Fridge gets Cold....replace circuit board
Fridge Doesn't get cold.......Cooling unit is BAD/Done/Dead
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Old 09-07-2021, 10:05 PM   #11
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Thank you for taking the time it is very much appreciated. Neither the freezer or the fridge get cold.
I will try your other suggestions tomorrow and let you know
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Old 09-22-2021, 10:37 AM   #12
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Looks like the cooling unit is toast so I need to replace the unit.
Thank you very much for sharing all your knowledge. I sure learned a lot.
Barbie
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Old 09-22-2021, 02:12 PM   #13
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Looks like the cooling unit is toast so I need to replace the unit.
Thank you very much for sharing all your knowledge. I sure learned a lot.
Barbie
Thanks for the update.....
Sorry the cooling unit is toast

Options:
Replace the cooling unit
Convert fridge to 12VDC or 120VAC Compressor unit
Replace with residential fridge

All have pros/cons
Depends on how you use fridge and if you have solar/battery bank or always hookup to power source

Good luck!
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