Community Forums

Being Frank · 08-05-2022, 05:50 PM

Hey guys/gals, I'm hoping someone can save the day for me here.

My camper is a 2013 Heritage Glen with the dometic gas/electric fridge/freezer.

Yesterday I brought it to my house like always (from storage), hooked up the electric to my house and started precooling the fridge. When I checked it once the fridge was down to 32 degrees. At some point this morning the cord got unplugged (not sure if this has anything to do with it), but now the freezer is super cold and the fridge is at 76 degrees. It's been plugged back in all day today. Temps in the fridge keep rising, the freezer is cold as ever.

I've searched and keep reading about fans, vents, etc. My fridge is pretty simple inside, I don't see any "connection" between the freezer and fridge compartments. I've tried sliding the thermistor up to the top with no change/help.

I leave tomorrow at 6am, less than 12 hours from now. Any help would be appreciated. I'll try to attach pics of the fridge.

Frank

SavageNomads · 08-05-2022, 06:04 PM

Our fridge suddenly quit working last summer when we had a travel trailer with a similar setup. Not sure it's your problem, but at least worth trying.... if you take the outside cover off of your fridge, typically a black vented plate with some slotted connectors, and then (at least in mine) look to the right there was a small black reset switch. I believe it's an over temperature cut out. Ours had tripped. Simply pressed it back on and the compressor fired back up and the fridge started cooling again.

tap4154 · 08-05-2022, 06:18 PM

Is the plastic condensation drain pipe coming from the drip tray in the fridge still intact? In mine it had fallen apart completely, and was allowing warm air into the fridge compartment. On hot days, especially when that side was in the sun, it was making the fridge run warm until I replaced it

Being Frank · 08-05-2022, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SavageNomads

Our fridge suddenly quit working last summer when we had a travel trailer with a similar setup. Not sure it's your problem, but at least worth trying.... if you take the outside cover off of your fridge, typically a black vented plate with some slotted connectors, and then (at least in mine) look to the right there was a small black reset switch. I believe it's an over temperature cut out. Ours had tripped. Simply pressed it back on and the compressor fired back up and the fridge started cooling again.

I'll go check for that, my only thing is the freezer was still working so I figured the compressor was still running. I'm going to go take a look now though. Thanks!

Being Frank · 08-05-2022, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tap4154

Is the plastic condensation drain pipe coming from the drip tray in the fridge still intact? In mine it had fallen apart completely, and was allowing warm air into the fridge compartment. On hot days, especially when that side was in the sun, it was making the fridge run warm until I replaced it

The condensation line seems fine, I did pull the panel off just to feel the lines to see if they were warm and to know the compressor was working.

Old-Biscuit · 08-05-2022, 06:51 PM

Dometic Gas/Electric......compressor??

No compressor on Absorption fridge

Was on electric but cord got pulled out so fridge should have swapped to GAS but if propane was not valved in the GAS would fail (check Light)
Plugged back in then should have swapped back to electric

Once warmed up can take hours to recover and cool

What model is this Dometic???

Being Frank · 08-05-2022, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Dometic Gas/Electric......compressor??

No compressor on Absorption fridge

Was on electric but cord got pulled out so fridge should have swapped to GAS but if propane was not valved in the GAS would fail (check Light)
Plugged back in then should have swapped back to electric

Once warmed up can take hours to recover and cool

What model is this Dometic???

I'll try to find a model number on it, ** Edited to add model DM2652**yeah in theory it should have switched to gas which it usually does, when traveling between campsites. However I didn't go onboard when I noticed it unplugged, I just plugged it back in and went on with the day. So I wonder if the light would have went out once the power was connected again, even if the gas had failed? I did just disconnect the LP tanks this morning and got them filled, but I ran the stove top afterwards to get any air out of the lines that I could.

Being Frank · 08-05-2022, 07:35 PM

I turned the unit off and am letting it just go back to ambient temperature then I'll plug it in and hope if anything was just frozen or needed reset it will work it's magic. If anyone has anymore input I'll be checking back tomorrow when we stop for the night.

tap4154 · 08-05-2022, 07:45 PM

Dm2652 is what I have, make sure it's set on automatic. Old Biscuit is right as usual, if it got warm when it was unplugged, it's going to take a long time to get back down to temperature. Don't keep opening it checking for temps and make sure the doors are closed well.

By the way, no compressor, that is an absorption fridge. Also make sure you are level as possible.

Being Frank · 08-06-2022, 05:36 AM

Ok guys I think I'm back in business. Last night I unplugged it and opened both doors and let it sit for an hour or so. Before going to bed I turned it on and this morning the fridge is down to 52 and the freezer is cold. I'm not sure what it was exactly, but for now it's fine. Hopefully once I load it with cold food and switch over to gas on the road, everything will be fine.

As for level, the camper definitely isn't level as it's attached to my truck and our street is on a slight grade. However it's always in that same spot when I bring it here as it's the only place I have to put it. Could a grade make it finicky? I've always heard about it needing to be level, but it's always just functioned ok parked that way.

jeanluc001 · 08-06-2022, 06:15 AM

being off level causes progressive damage to absorption refrigerator.
overheating is possible.

tap4154 · 08-06-2022, 08:11 AM

If you're parked off level on a grade, I would turn it off.

"The refrigerator should not be more than 3 degrees unlevel left to right, or 6 degrees unlevel front to back. We do not recommend having the unit unlevel for more than 1-2 hours as this can increase the chances of a blockage. However, we do recommend if you can, have the unit level at all times."

Rosy · 08-06-2022, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Being Frank

I'll try to find a model number on it, ** Edited to add model DM2652**yeah in theory it should have switched to gas which it usually does, when traveling between campsites. However I didn't go onboard when I noticed it unplugged, I just plugged it back in and went on with the day. So I wonder if the light would have went out once the power was connected again, even if the gas had failed? I did just disconnect the LP tanks this morning and got them filled, but I ran the stove top afterwards to get any air out of the lines that I could.

You travel with your propane tanks open? Big safety no-no.

Rosy · 08-06-2022, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Being Frank

Ok guys I think I'm back in business. Last night I unplugged it and opened both doors and let it sit for an hour or so. Before going to bed I turned it on and this morning the fridge is down to 52 and the freezer is cold. I'm not sure what it was exactly, but for now it's fine. Hopefully once I load it with cold food and switch over to gas on the road, everything will be fine.

As for level, the camper definitely isn't level as it's attached to my truck and our street is on a slight grade. However it's always in that same spot when I bring it here as it's the only place I have to put it. Could a grade make it finicky? I've always heard about it needing to be level, but it's always just functioned ok parked that way.

If you're running it on propane, the trailer needs to be level.