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04-26-2012, 04:48 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Mid Atlantic Campers Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Richmond, Va
Posts: 242
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Dometic frig problem (answer not found doing search)
I'm sure this has already happened to someone, but I can't find the answer.
I have a Dometic RM2820 frig in the rig. Until recently, it has been working fine. The other day, I turned it on to start cooling down using the electricity. The control panel lights came on, and all seemed to be working well. The next day when I checked it, I discovered it did not cool down, but all the lights were lit on the control panel as if everything was working. I checked the fuses, and none appeared blown, but I changed them anyway. After changing them, I could feel the "heater" getting warm, and assumed it must have had a blown fuse. Today I check the frig, and I have nothing again. The control panel lights are on, but the heater is not warm. I checked the fuse with an ohm meter, and it is not blown. Do the heaters go bad on these things ? Is there a way to trouble shoot the heater ? Eliminate the control board ? I'm at a loss here.
The propane side still works fine.
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'87 Coachmen Leprachuan 27' on Ford E 350 w/ 460 cid, Hedman Headers, dual flowmaster exhaust
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04-26-2012, 07:13 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 1,202
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Yes the heaters do go bad. You should be able to check them by turning off the refrigerator, and unplugging the 120v plug. Trace the heater wires from the flue to the control box. Then remove them one pair at a time if you have 2 heaters. If you have a volt/ohm meter, using the ohms scale test for continuity. If you don't have a meter, you can make up a adapter to be able to plug the heater into a 120 volt power source, You should be able to feel heat at the flue after just a few minutes. If the heater stays cold, it is bad.
Jim
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Jim and Lynda, (Sophie, Jake, attack trained killer Shi-Tzus :-))
2003 Fleetwood Expedition 38N 2005 Saturn Vue
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04-27-2012, 04:23 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Mid Atlantic Campers Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Richmond, Va
Posts: 242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlfbatonrg
Yes the heaters do go bad. You should be able to check them by turning off the refrigerator, and unplugging the 120v plug. Trace the heater wires from the flue to the control box. Then remove them one pair at a time if you have 2 heaters. If you have a volt/ohm meter, using the ohms scale test for continuity. If you don't have a meter, you can make up a adapter to be able to plug the heater into a 120 volt power source, You should be able to feel heat at the flue after just a few minutes. If the heater stays cold, it is bad.
Jim
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Thanks Jim !!
Any special type of adaptor needed to hook the heater to 120v ? I have an old estension cord I use for such projects. Just connect the cord to the heater leads and plug it into an outlet ? Or do I need some type of controller ?
Is there a way to check the circuit board ? I assume if I disconnect the heater leads, I should be able to put a volt meter on the terminals and get a 120v reading ? Or will that screw up the board ?
__________________
'87 Coachmen Leprachuan 27' on Ford E 350 w/ 460 cid, Hedman Headers, dual flowmaster exhaust
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04-27-2012, 07:34 AM
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#4
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Moderator Emeritus
Nor'easters Club Workhorse Chassis Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 30,786
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No you are just checking to see if you get heat in the element area if you have two may need to let cool down to check second element.
Test heat elements
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04-27-2012, 05:18 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Mid Atlantic Campers Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Richmond, Va
Posts: 242
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Well, I'm going to assume I have a bad element. When I ohm'd out the element, my meter gave me "OL". When I checked the circuit board terminals to the heater, I got .23v and 0v (I only have 1 heater, so I assume the the 0v side is the element ground). The 5 amp fuse for the element control also showed .23v going across it.
Now I guess I just have to find the element.
__________________
'87 Coachmen Leprachuan 27' on Ford E 350 w/ 460 cid, Hedman Headers, dual flowmaster exhaust
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04-27-2012, 06:12 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Freightliner Owners Club Overland Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Mid-Missouri
Posts: 870
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Yes the element should be closed when checked. They unplug and slide out
There will be volt and wattage info stamped on it. Makes it easier to find the right one.
Got mine at a local RV dealer. Was cheaper than on line with shipping.
__________________
Mike and Carla
1998 42' Overland Larado Diesel Pusher
On the road - here and there - Full Timing
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