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Old 04-11-2021, 07:49 AM   #1
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Dometic headache

Have a 2007 Damon Outlaw 3611 with the original Dometic RM2852 refrigerator. It stopped cooling at the motocross track last weekend while hooked up to shore power. I tried to switch it over to LP and it still wouldn’t cool down. The check light never came on and I still have power to the board. What would the common culprit be for a fridge to still have power, but not cool on either LP or 110v?
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Old 04-11-2021, 08:09 AM   #2
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Dometic fridge

When our dometic started acting up I replaced the circuit board with dinosaur brand worked great afterwards
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Old 04-11-2021, 08:22 AM   #3
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Temperature sensing "bulb" inside the fridge compartment generally attached to the cold coil could definitely be the problem and easy/cheap to deal with. There are testing protocols to determine if it is indeed bad or not. Check the manual or do a forum/Google search for how to's and or Utubes.
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Old 04-11-2021, 08:32 AM   #4
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I did do the “cold water” resistance test on the thermistor and it tested out just fine.
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Old 04-12-2021, 11:15 PM   #5
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I would check the resistance of the a/c ballast if it checks ok plug it directly into a 120 volt outlet. If the refrigerator doesn’t get cool overnight the cooling unit is defective if it gets cold the problem is likely in the control circuits
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Old 04-17-2021, 09:48 AM   #6
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I really hate to be the one to suggest this but since no one else did I will. Have you gone outside and looked at the back of the unit for yellow powder or staining? I'm making the assumption that this is a RV fridge and not a residential model. Yellow staining means the cooling unit has failed. I had mine replaced just over a year ago when I had the symptoms you describe. cost about $1100 (as I recall) for a new cooling unit.
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Old 04-19-2021, 10:23 AM   #7
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Insufficient Cooling on AC/LP
Ventilation.......draft/airflow bottom to top blocked/insulation falling down/birds nest etc
Leveling......off level/gravity flow of coolant disrupted
Ambient Temperature......just too dang hot outside/need additional fans to add in draft
Air Leaks..........cabinet not properly sealed/door seals leaking
Thermistor........bad thermistor, wiring/connection
Cooling Unit......obstruction/blockage----tube leak


Those are the 'common' issues that affect both cooling modes

Step by step
*as suggested.....visually inspect backside of cooling unit for signs of leakage---yellowish powder around burner area etc
*thermistor......remove thermistor from clip on fin and let it dangle then run fridge for 12Hrs. No thermistor feedback to thermostat then fridge cools continuously (freezer and food compartment should get VERY Cold)
*Unplug AC Element leads from circuit board and plug them directly into the outlet in outside compartment----force cools fridge for 12hrs.

**Yellowish powder-----cooling unit dead
**Thermistor can 'test' ok but not preform...if fridge cools down with it dangling then replace thermistor (Snip-The-Tip Rheostat)
**Force cools with element....then replace circuit board
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Old 04-23-2021, 03:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh_613 View Post
Have a 2007 Damon Outlaw 3611 with the original Dometic RM2852 refrigerator. It stopped cooling at the motocross track last weekend while hooked up to shore power. I tried to switch it over to LP and it still wouldn’t cool down. The check light never came on and I still have power to the board. What would the common culprit be for a fridge to still have power, but not cool on either LP or 110v?

You say it wouldn't cool down. What were the freezer and food box temps? What was the outside temp? When was the last time it cooled properly? What degrees did both boxes cool down too, when it did cool properly? And in what temps did it cool properly? Did you have it parked with the fridge wall in the sun? What were the outside temps? If all the controls seem to be working on AC and LP the cooling unit may have taken a dump.


Sometimes knowing the history of care or abuse can help. If you're not the original owner and the previous owner didn't know about keeping level who knows what the cooling unit looks like inside.



In my limited experience with these things I've to come to the conclusion that proper venting is crucial, if everything else appears to fuction normally. By venting I don't mean just adding fans. Dometic has diagrams of what proper venting should look like, down to the inch. I spent 2 weeks last summer cleaning up the mess that Fleetwood did installing my 2862 ( ventilation not even close to Dometic specs ). It's an original 2004 model and with the proper venting it still cools below 40 in 90's weather. Might only make it one more summer, or one more day for that matter, due to age.


If you have more time than money I would suggest getting up on the roof and have a look from the top down at the venting. Yes, pull the vent cover and see what's going on. Look for huge gaps above the box that were never closed up. Look for insulation that may have fallen over the condensor. Is there baffles that direct the air flow directly over the condensor coil? And as noted by another response, look for yellow dust. Not just at the boiler, but all along the coil. Any signs of yellow will 100% tell you what's going on.

There are alot of variables to consider, if the controls are working properly. But, yours might have just met its peril. No way to really know when that dreaded day comes around.



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Old 04-25-2021, 11:56 AM   #9
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Hello OP....
any feed back/update???
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Old 04-26-2021, 05:20 AM   #10
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Yeah, we just got back from another race weekend and the fridge is working perfect. I ended up ordering a replacement lower board off Amazon and that fixed the issue. The new board isn’t exactly the same so I was kind of nervous about it working, but it seems to be a superseded part number. Thanks for all the direction and suggestions��
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