Community Forums

rcalbuquerqu · 10-17-2018, 03:25 PM

need some advice on 17 year old fridge that just stopped working.
i just got back from a trip to denver for a football game....everything was working fine on propane so when i got home i parked the rv and pluged in to 50amps and was running the fridge on 120 after a few daysi noticed that i had it set to high and everything was getting to cold so i turned it down to a lower level and forgot about it for a day or so then went to get a beer and it was warm and everything in the freezer was thawed.
weather turned cold so i shut everything down and have been doing some research on the best way to move forward.
I like boondocking and am woried if i get a residential fridge that could be a problem when driving and boondocking for a week or so.
i have a Xantrex freedom 458 msw inverter and 2 100mah litium batteries now.
I was thinking to buy 2 more batteries for $1800 and the samsung for $1200 about the same as a new top of the line dometic.
seems to me fixing a old fridge could be a wast of money but im open
I need a little nudge to pull the trigger please offer some advice.
thanks
2003 National Tradwinds LTC DP
Lou

**JohnRR** · 10-17-2018, 04:09 PM

It may sound like a foolish question have you tried turning it back up?

rcalbuquerqu · 10-17-2018, 06:05 PM

going to try that tomorrow

**CountryFit** · 10-17-2018, 11:39 PM

I had used up two NDR1292's in 14 years - the OE unit went karput at year 7. The second 1292 made to year 7 as well then quit. I heard many times that some people made out an RV fridge for decade without problems I guess I was just unlucky... In Dec 2016, I pulled the trigger on a residential unit. Not the popular Samsung RF18 but one works for us... Both DW and I have been happier ever since.

Here is a note for what I did back then Replaced an RV Fridge with a Residential Unit - iRV2 Forums

The Samsung RF18 looks very cool, but you'd likely need to get it in through a side window. There might also be some wood work to be done.

Your 200AH lithium is great, adding 200AH more would make it perfect for your needs. My overnight power consumption is about 120-150ah, even with your current 200AH pack it should make you through night no problem.

As you stated you do boondocking a lot, have you considered setting up a solar system as well? It could be your next project after the fridge, but one thing for sure it will be a big help for your power supply, especially in Albuquerque area where bright sky is given year round. Come back for more info on that

.

rcalbuquerqu · 10-23-2018, 11:07 AM

Tried to turn it back on...no go....won’t turn on at all....front panel lights do not come on...

Old-Biscuit · 10-23-2018, 12:50 PM

Fridge has to have 12V DC for controls/Display/light etc
No Display...no DC

12V DC comes from a FUSED source (DC Dist Panel etc) to Terminal Block in fridge outside compartment
From Terminal Block DC POS goes to lower circuit board (J4 terminal) and then to/thru the 3A blade fuse on circuit board
DC Neg from Terminal block goes to ground

Using a voltmeter follow the DC and find where it stops

rcalbuquerqu · 10-23-2018, 01:55 PM

Ok I’ll check it out
Thanks for your advice I will check it out.
I am very handy but am clueless when it comes to fridge , solar, electrical.
I have had this coach for 13 years and have done all service and repairs myself.
Any tips or advice is extremely valuable

okcnewbie · 10-23-2018, 02:01 PM

Like usual I agree with Old-Biscuit.

It sounds like your refer isn't leaking ammonia so you likely have more life left if you find the problem.
If it ends up being the control board you may be able to find a replacement here; https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/

funjnt · 10-24-2018, 05:10 AM

If you do replace your fridge let me know I could use some of the parts, shelves, ice maker etc.

On another note: There is an amish fridge company that rebuilds the cooling units to be heavier than stock and they work great. They also offer a compressor based residential style cooling unit to replace the cooling unit in your fridge and you keep same fridge. I haven't heard anyone using one of these conversions but I really like our double door fridge and don't think I have room to go with residential as our heater is underneath fridge.

Products | JC Refrigeration Option 1.

rcalbuquerqu · 10-25-2018, 09:45 AM

It has been raining the last few days so I couldn’t do anything yet. I am hoping to repair the fridge if it’s not to expensive. If it needs a cooling unit I’ll by a residential fridge and do the upgrades.
Any idea how to test the contour board and the heating elements.

I am living in the RV but am parked next to my shop in Albuquerque I have a fridge in my shop so for now I’m ok but need to get this thing fixed. There is no way I can do any repairs without removing the fridge and my rv entry door is only 23” wide 25” if I remove the door and frame. Lots of work for me😫

Old-Biscuit · 10-25-2018, 10:06 AM

First...........
DC to fridge

Then IF you find/fix DC issue (no display etc)
Remove cover on lower circuit board....unplug 'thermistor' leads (P2 connector---2 White Leads) from board
Turn fridge ON ----Auto AC and let it run at least 12 hrs preferably longer

Freezer/10*F or lower
Food Compartment/42*F or lower

This will test whether or not cooling unit is capable of cooling...thermistor unplugged causes fridge to run continuously (provide BOTH heating elements get hot)

rcalbuquerqu · 10-25-2018, 11:39 AM

Found a blown fuse so now lights up ... testing now if works on propane

rcalbuquerqu · 10-25-2018, 06:00 PM

Good news...it’s working on propane...already at 20 degrees .so this means ?

Old-Biscuit · 10-25-2018, 06:48 PM

Check temps tomorrow ....
Freezer 10*F or lower/Food compartment 42*F or lower----cooling unit functioning

Swap to AC elements and see if it maintains temps

RV is LEVEL....correct?