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Old 12-03-2021, 06:53 AM   #1
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Dometic NDR1292 Not Working

I tried to piggyback on a previous thread but it wouldn't let me reply due to the threads age, so here is a new thread.

I have an 06 teton, and I left it for about a month in a campground in Wyoming. Never had an issue with the fridge other than the ice maker quit working about a year ago (frustrating). Well, get back after a month, fridge isn't working. Freezer feels like a fridge, fridge feels like an old lunch box with an ice pack in it. Figured maybe the cold outside temps froze it up. Nope. Shut it down, checked fuses and breakers, all good. Fired it back on propane, fired right up, but after 16hrs or so no measurable difference in temperature. Any help on fixing this without a major repair? Im working out of town so major repair would have to wait till I got home but I need a fridge.......
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Old 12-03-2021, 07:59 AM   #2
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If it's not cooling on electric or propane, and you've verified that the flame is burning properly and in the correct place, then likely your cooling unit has failed.

There are replacement cooling units available if you want to keep the fridge. Takes a few hours to install and cost $500 - $600 depending on model. The Amish-built units work better than the original.
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Old 12-03-2021, 11:24 AM   #3
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How cold is it outside?

Absorption fridges will stop cooling when outside temps drop.
Some fridges have a LAT control (Low ambient temp)....it turns on food compartment lamp to add heat load

Adding a 60w Bulb to outside compartment will also add heat load

The NDR1292 HAS a LAT Switch....on upper frame of food compartment side below display panel
*2 switches
one closest to freezer/food doors is Climate Control (turns on heat strip between the doors for control of condensation
other one above food door is the LAT (turns on interior lamp for heat load)

Try the LAT.......and depending on outside temps might need the 60W bulb in outside compartment


*course if cooling unit has become obstructed/blocked neither LAT/bulb will help
*Classic symptom of blockage is freezer cold/food compartment not
That could be bad Thermistor (unplug and run fridge), bad circuit board (force cool), bad cooling unit (replace)
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Old 12-03-2021, 11:31 AM   #4
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If the burner was firing for 16 hours, wouldn't that indicate the thermistor is working and calling for cold?
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Old 12-03-2021, 11:41 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richard5933 View Post
If the burner was firing for 16 hours, wouldn't that indicate the thermistor is working and calling for cold?
OP stated swapped to gas and 16 hrs later food compartment still wasn't cooling down
Not that GAS ran for 16 hrs.....

Bad thermistor can limit heating cycles or cause heating cycle to run in BOS (back up operation...timed based vs temp based)

Freezer is first in cooling process and heat is absorbed from freezer then absorption is done in food compartment....IF sufficient amount of ammonia has been boiled into vapor then condensed into liquid ammonia

Bad thermistor can affect how much ammonia if boiled, bad circuit board can limit heat cycles, obstructed/blocked cooling unit can affect amount of ammonia is boiled (obstruction on perk tube) or flow of coolant (obstruction between Low Temp Evap Coil and High Temp Evap Coil---freezer/food compartment)


That is why I suggested unplugging thermistor (leads on lower circuit board) and let fridge run W/O temp sensing
Free and easy test....if food compartment cools down. Replace thermistor

If food compartment doesn't. Then Force Cooling test is needed to see if cooling unit is capable of cooling freezer AND food compartment
Free and easy test but require monitoring.....Element leads wired directly to 120VAC Outlet and force cool fridge. Bypasses ALL controls so monitoring is needed. After 12hrs of element being continuously energized YES/NO if cooling unit is blocked or not
Good cooling unit.....food compartment will get 32*F or lower
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Old 12-04-2021, 10:40 AM   #6
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I can't verify that the burner was running the entire time, but every time I went outside to check it was burning. The freezer side would get slightly colder than the food side, I don't know if it was trying to cool a little or because everything in the freezer was still thawing out.

Its cold out at night, but warms up during the day. I did forget to set the low ambient switch before I left, so I turned that on when I cycled the fridge.

I do see some yellow material on the floor pan under the cooling package.

I will try some of the other troubleshooting recommended here when I get time. Unfortunately working 7-12's so it probably wont be until I drag the coach home. For now I have a residential fridge set in the corner of trailer to survive out of until I get home.

If the cooling package is done, I'll go for the Amish replacement.

Thanks for all the help!!
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Old 12-04-2021, 01:02 PM   #7
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If you have yellow residue it might be a sign that the cooling unit bit the big one.

Rusty bits up above it?
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Old 12-04-2021, 02:32 PM   #8
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Yellow Residue around burner area.........Boiler section has LEAKED

Cooling Unit is DEAD

Turn it OFF and leave it OFF
*Unplug the AC Cord/Remove DC Fuse for Fridge

Yellow Residue is Sodium Chromate (Rust Inhibitor in Coolant Solution) that has dried out.
IT IS TOXIC...no blowing out using Air Pressure
Needs to be worked WET to clean up
*COVID MASK...USE it & gloves

YOU need to replace cooling unit or get another fridge.
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