Dometic propane fridge help...

[Skip426]

[QUOTE=Homeby5;6211992]It's a 2019 AC/Propane fridge. Model DM2662RBX.

Here is an update from some checks I did before heading to Airport.
No faults at all on Dometic front control panel.

I'd imagine , that your on a plane by now and hope the issue is the tank flow valve being tripped ; resulting in poor flame .

Is your DW in a full service park and able to use the fridge on 120v power ?
Or would she be able to shut the fridge down and try resetting the tank flow valves and view the flame , or at least have someone do that for her.

[Homeby5]

Thanks.
Before I left I emptied the fridge except a few bottles of water and put some ice in freezer with it being about half full of meat.
I also switched it to electric. After 24 hours, the ice was melted in freezer and the water warmer in fridge.
The unit is definitely not working on either electric or gas. So...I am not going to focus on low flame anymore because the electric heater should heat the boiler up.
Again...it baffles me that running out of propane has caused the cooling unit to go bad? I understand the oil being introduced into the system but everything else on propane is working fine. Plus...again...how does oil in system stop the electric mode to not work?
Those unit was freezing great up until the point we ran out of gas...in both electric and gas modes. We have used it in both modes for several days without any issues. Then suddenly running out of gas kills the cooling unit?
Plus no ammonia smell or yellowish tint.
I don't get it...

[Homeby5]

Originally Posted by Fridge Defend

I can see that we are doing some good, thanks for using our information on the LP filter and photos iRV2 supporters

When you run out of LP gas, you will boil the bottom of the LP bottle off, which in turn can introduce any oil that is in the tank into the system. See this video on why this happens:

(6) The first comment is, if your fridge was cold when you switched to LP/Propane, then your fridge should have cooled within an hour or two.

(1) & (2): The human hand is not so good at detecting temperature, if you know your actual boiler temperature it would be more useful for diagnostics. Although the boiler is warm, you need to know the quality of heat, read on here:

(5)
QUALITY of HEAT

Your fridge should work fine on shore power if the issue is the LP gas heat source alone.

(3) Good on you! Thanks for providing diagnostics info

The thermistor has to be in the proper position on the cooling fins, if you ask we can show you where on our website.

(4) More great info , if you are referencing the absorber coils, the big coils just above the holding tank, then you have a problem! You need to discontinue use until you figure this out!

IF YOU ARE AWAY FROM YOUR FRIDGE AND IT IT IS RUNNING, AND YOU DO NOT HAVE THE FRIDGE DEFEND, HAVE SOMEONE TURN IT OFF ASAP! YOUR FRIDGE HAS NO SAFETY FOR BOILER OVERHEATING WITHOUT OUR SAFETY DEVICE.

I state this because you stated that you were "heading to Airport" and your diagnostics all lead to the fact that you most likely have an overheating boiler.

Thanks for supporting iRV2 Where knowledge is safety!

Thanks for a detailed reply. Without typing everything again (see above post), how can any problem caused by running out of gas stop the operation of the electric heating system. They are two separate heating systems that simply heats the chemicals in the cooling unit...right?
In theory nothing in that propane system can contaminate the cooling unit?

[Homeby5]

Update...I just spoke to Dometic customer support and explained everything. They agree that the cooling unit appears bad. They affirmed that the electric and propane are separate heating sources and neither one can introduce contaminates into the cooling unit. They are flabbergasted that the cooling unit died at the same time as running out of propane...but coincidence is the only answer.

On a negative note...since the unit is 3 years old they will not stand behind their product and even give me a discount on a new cooling unit. That's pretty poor customer service given the age of my unit. They just agreed it sucks and even laughed when telling me they would offer no help.

Let me ask...has anyone ever burped the cooling unit or heated it in order to try to break up the congealed clog?

Thanks

[Old-Biscuit]

Propane issue is separate from Electric Element issue

Only common components are upper display/lower circuit board & the cooling unit

Did you check that the AC fuse on circuit board is Good...test it not just look at it?
That maybe your AC element issue

'Force Cool' will verify if Cooling Unit is capable of functioning.
Directly wiring AC heater element to 120VAC Outlet and letting fridge run continuously for 12 yrs
CAUTION: Force Cool BYPASSES ALL CONTROLS

[fletch460]

I force cooled my 1299 series and after it cooled, switched it back to the board and every thing worked. Just a guess but I feel if thermisster dont detect cooling it shuts down

[0rion]

Maybe I missed where you tested things but I'd test thermistor and board before buying a while new unit. Both are relatively cheap and easy to replace.

[Homeby5]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Propane issue is separate from Electric Element issue

Only common components are upper display/lower circuit board & the cooling unit

Did you check that the AC fuse on circuit board is Good...test it not just look at it?
That maybe your AC element issue

'Force Cool' will verify if Cooling Unit is capable of functioning.
Directly wiring AC heater element to 120VAC Outlet and letting fridge run continuously for 12 yrs
CAUTION: Force Cool BYPASSES ALL CONTROLS

Yes...all is good. Boiler is warm/hot when in electric and gas mode. Basically I've ruled out any of the control problems because the boiler has heat source.
Thanks

[ChuckerF14]

Originally Posted by Homeby5

Update...I just spoke to Dometic customer support and explained everything. They agree that the cooling unit appears bad. They affirmed that the electric and propane are separate heating sources and neither one can introduce contaminates into the cooling unit. They are flabbergasted that the cooling unit died at the same time as running out of propane...but coincidence is the only answer.

On a negative note...since the unit is 3 years old they will not stand behind their product and even give me a discount on a new cooling unit. That's pretty poor customer service given the age of my unit. They just agreed it sucks and even laughed when telling me they would offer no help.

Let me ask...has anyone ever burped the cooling unit or heated it in order to try to break up the congealed clog?

Thanks

Just a theory here: As your LP ran out, the pressure dropped and so did your Btu's. With insufficient heat, your pump stopped moving fluid and your boiler overheated. Overheating the boiler can cause sedimentation and destroy your unit. Can it all happen that fast? I don't know. It's just a theory.

[SergioP]

Originally Posted by Homeby5

Let me ask...has anyone ever burped the cooling unit or heated it in order to try to break up the congealed clog?

Thanks

I’ve heard of tapping the cooling unit with a hammer can break apart a clog and get it working again.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by ChuckerF14

Just a theory here: As your LP ran out, the pressure dropped and so did your Btu's. With insufficient heat, your pump stopped moving fluid and your boiler overheated. Overheating the boiler can cause sedimentation and destroy your unit. Can it all happen that fast? I don't know. It's just a theory.

LP Reg Maintains 11:WC in the RV LP System....0.39 psi
Input to Main Reg is good down to 10 psi ...that is when the Auto Changeover Reg swaps
Second cylinder not valved in...pressure goes to 0
No different then if gas valve just closed

overheating can occur if flame stayed lit and was insufficient heat but that would take longer then it would take for pressure in system to decrease and flame go out (that would only be a couple minutes or less)

Damage from overheating is accumulative....a little here, a little there until done.
Few minutes off level...here/there adds up

[Fridge Defend]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

overheating can occur if flame stayed lit and was insufficient heat but that would take longer then it would take for pressure in system to decrease and flame go out (that would only be a couple minutes or less)

Damage from overheating is accumulative....a little here, a little there until done.
Few minutes off level...here/there adds up

This statement, respectfully, is not completely accurate:

"flame go out"

Please see this post:

Quality of Heat

Blockage and low LP pressure will not always put out the flame, when there is too much heat, or not enough the boiler will overheat.

Hope this clears things up a little with what is going on in the boiler with an absorption fridge.

We are about education and excellences of sharing knowledge. Thanks for helping

"Few minutes off level...here/there adds up", this is correct, and this is where boiler protection comes in, thanks for pointing this out kudos

[153stars]

It got to be long thread based on gas side are there fans for cooling unit . Proper venting and diverters to vent should also be investigated. Seen some vids to go extra measure with diverter to create better fan and natural draft to upper coil.

In old TT....I bought two of the new style hoses ,hand tank nut and unknown to me high flow shut off valves. After only a 3-5yrs I started to notice less flow to one side I thought it was vintage tank switching device so. I swapped tanks for a while. Then the other side slowed down. I gutted the parts in switching device ,no love. All I can think poor choice or rubber seals in safety valves, oil in LP swelled them up. A drill and air compressor took care of the high flow valves. A man needs his breakfast camping and a bit hungover lol.

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Quite possible^^^^^ Good catch!



Ran out of propane then Valved in the second cylinder

If valved in too quickly the Excess Flow Device inside the ACME Nut can trip.......limits flow of propane resulting in low flames



Simple thing to check for........just close the Cylinder OPD valve/wait 30 seconds and then SLOWLY open back up

[Homeby5]

Weirdest thing...wife just told me fridge started cooling again. It has been not working for a week. I wonder if their was an air bubble and it burped?