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Old 06-12-2022, 10:08 AM   #1
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Dometic propane fridge help...

Ok...while dry camping my propane tank ran out overnight. Freezer food started to thaw and fridge was warmer. I swapped tanks and check. All is good and no faults.
After driving 6 hours I got to the CG and noticed my fridge and freezer was even warmer. I noticed my thermistor wire came loose from paper clip that keeps it up beside the fins. I put it back up high and let it run for another 7 hours in gas mode since I thought that would cool quicker. I checked flame on fridge and it is on and blue.
Freezer still not freezing food back.
Am I not giving it enough time? Shoukd u switch to electric and let it run for another 4 hours or so?
Any other ideas?
Thanks
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Old 06-12-2022, 10:24 AM   #2
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The hits just keep on coming for you , don't they .

Thermistor off the fins , should have had the fridge running full time . If memory serves .
RV fridge cool down time is over 24 hours .

When checking the flame did you notice any , yellowish powder . around the base of the chimney ? Indication of a leak in the system ?

Can you add the fridge model info and year to your post . Thanks
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Old 06-12-2022, 10:27 AM   #3
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In case you don't have your manual handy .
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Old 06-12-2022, 02:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
The hits just keep on coming for you , don't they .

Thermistor off the fins , should have had the fridge running full time . If memory serves .
RV fridge cool down time is over 24 hours .

When checking the flame did you notice any , yellowish powder . around the base of the chimney ? Indication of a leak in the system ?

Can you add the fridge model info and year to your post . Thanks
It's a 2019 AC/Propane fridge. Model DM2662RBX.

Here is an update from some checks I did before heading to Airport.
No faults at all on Dometic front control panel.
Verified that the control board switches between gas and electric. When I disconnect ac power cord behind fridge, the gas solenoid cuts on and blue flame fires up.
Blue flame does not appear to be real strong though. More like a power light. I assume that's because the fridge isn't in "cool mode"?
Heating element appears warm to touch when in electric mode.
Thermo fuse and high temp cutout on boiler are good. Checked with meter. Plus if they were bad all power to Fridge control display should cut out.
Thermistor is working fine. Checked ohms at 33deg and 62 deg. Resistance is right according to chart.
No ammonia smell or yellowish stuff.
Boiler is warm/hot to touch but coils (I think that's what they are called) are cool.
Only thing left I know would be the cooling unit.

This stumps the hell out of me. I mean, why would loss of propane cause the entire cooling unit to die? This has been cooling like crazy for 5 weeks on the road...both on propane and electric. No hiccups. Then all of a sudden I run out of propane one night and the fridge stops working on both gas and electric? Hell of a coincidence...

Do you think I simply am not waiting long enough? I removed all food from fridge and half the meat from freezer. Will that help speed things up?

Thanks
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Old 06-12-2022, 08:36 PM   #5
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Flame does NOT come on unless Thermostat calls for heating cycle based on FIN temp thermistor is attached to in food compartment

If Fridge has warmed up it can take 12 hrs to cool it down.
Freezer needs to get COLD first before food compartment can effectively cool down and maintain proper temps

Flame should be Strong/BLUE and just reach up inside the flue opening
**Running out of propane should not have affected flame quality unless:
1) Main Reg is not able to maintain 11"WC (.38 psi)
2) Gas Valve inlet filter/orifice/burner got clogged


Good Fridge Flame
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Old 06-12-2022, 09:10 PM   #6
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Not sure where you're located and how hot it is there. However, those refrigerators are definitely NOT like a residential type. The best advice I can give you is: Place a large container of ice in the freezer upon startup and it will definitely speed up the process!! Un-insulated Metal container is best because it gets real cold. Also makes a great ice storage bucket. If you can get a wireless thermometer on amazon place the transmitter inside and monitor remotely. In other words, try not to open the doors. Opening the doors in a hot RV will set your progress back several hours. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-12-2022, 09:25 PM   #7
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12 hours to cool a Dometic fridge does not assume a boat load of warm/thawed food in it. It could take a few days, depending on the ambient temperature.
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Old 06-12-2022, 10:53 PM   #8
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We are in Fairbanks Alaska.

I told my wife to leave some ice in the freezer and take out food from fridge.
My flame looks like the photo below. It looks weak to me. I have tried it on two different tanks and everything else in trailer works fine on propane.
Anyway...I switched it to electric before I left so I will see when I get back. That uses an electric heater element so unless my cooling unit is bad there is no way both heating systems went bad at the same time I ran out of propane. Remember...both electric and gas worked great until I ran out of propane the other day.
Maybe I am expecting too much?
Thanks guys.
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Old 06-12-2022, 11:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Flame does NOT come on unless Thermostat calls for heating cycle based on FIN temp thermistor is attached to in food compartment

If Fridge has warmed up it can take 12 hrs to cool it down.
Freezer needs to get COLD first before food compartment can effectively cool down and maintain proper temps

Flame should be Strong/BLUE and just reach up inside the flue opening
**Running out of propane should not have affected flame quality unless:
1) Main Reg is not able to maintain 11"WC (.38 psi)
2) Gas Valve inlet filter/orifice/burner got clogged


Good Fridge Flame
How do you clean the gas orifice/filter? Look at above pic. Mine looks weaker.
Either way the electric heating element should make it work?
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Old 06-12-2022, 11:56 PM   #10
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YES your Flame is WEAK.
All slots are lit but not much height to the flame

That suggests Low LP System Pressure.
Fridge Gas Valve INLET screen/filter dirty OR Main LP Reg out of adjustment (need to connect manometer and test system pressure)

Screen/filter....have to disconnect LP line inlet fitting at gas valve then remove the adapter that is screwed into the gas valve
Filter is in the inlet of gas valve...spray it with an Electrical Cleaner or soak in alcohol

Orifice is the large brass 'nozzle' with the #58 stamped on it
Remove and soak in alcohol then gentle blow thru it
*NO Poking anything thru it or use High Pressure Air
Orifice has a jewel insert that meters the gas flow....damage it and you will need a new orifice

If after cleaning.........flame is still low the Nain LP Reg is the issue
*turn fridge ON propane, turn on ALL stove top burners on HIGH, water heater on propane and see if fridge flame drops
If fridge flame gets smaller...Main LP Reg is issue
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Old 06-13-2022, 03:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homeby5 View Post
It's a 2019 AC/Propane fridge. Model DM2662RBX.

Here is an update from some checks I did before heading to Airport.
No faults at all on Dometic front control panel.
Verified that the control board switches between gas and electric. When I disconnect ac power cord behind fridge, the gas solenoid cuts on and blue flame fires up.
(1) Blue flame does not appear to be real strong though. More like a power light. I assume that's because the fridge isn't in "cool mode"?
(2) Heating element appears warm to touch when in electric mode.
Thermo fuse and high temp cutout on boiler are good. Checked with meter. Plus if they were bad all power to Fridge control display should cut out.
(3) Thermistor is working fine. Checked ohms at 33deg and 62 deg. Resistance is right according to chart.
No ammonia smell or yellowish stuff.
(4) Boiler is warm/hot to touch but coils (I think that's what they are called) are cool.
Only thing left I know would be the cooling unit.

(5) This stumps the hell out of me. I mean, why would loss of propane cause the entire cooling unit to die? This has been cooling like crazy for 5 weeks on the road...both on propane and electric. No hiccups. Then all of a sudden I run out of propane one night and the fridge stops working on both gas and electric? Hell of a coincidence...

(6) Do you think I simply am not waiting long enough? I removed all food from fridge and half the meat from freezer. Will that help speed things up?

Thanks
I can see that we are doing some good, thanks for using our information on the LP filter and photos iRV2 supporters

When you run out of LP gas, you will boil the bottom of the LP bottle off, which in turn can introduce any oil that is in the tank into the system. See this video on why this happens:



(6) The first comment is, if your fridge was cold when you switched to LP/Propane, then your fridge should have cooled within an hour or two.

(1) & (2): The human hand is not so good at detecting temperature, if you know your actual boiler temperature it would be more useful for diagnostics. Although the boiler is warm, you need to know the quality of heat, read on here:

(5)
QUALITY of HEAT

Your fridge should work fine on shore power if the issue is the LP gas heat source alone.

(3) Good on you! Thanks for providing diagnostics info

The thermistor has to be in the proper position on the cooling fins, if you ask we can show you where on our website.

(4) More great info , if you are referencing the absorber coils, the big coils just above the holding tank, then you have a problem! You need to discontinue use until you figure this out!

IF YOU ARE AWAY FROM YOUR FRIDGE AND IT IT IS RUNNING, AND YOU DO NOT HAVE THE FRIDGE DEFEND, HAVE SOMEONE TURN IT OFF ASAP! YOUR FRIDGE HAS NO SAFETY FOR BOILER OVERHEATING WITHOUT OUR SAFETY DEVICE.

I state this because you stated that you were "heading to Airport" and your diagnostics all lead to the fact that you most likely have an overheating boiler.

Thanks for supporting iRV2 Where knowledge is safety!
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Old 06-13-2022, 04:27 AM   #12
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Check the stove burners. I wonder if you triggered high gas flow shut off and its only mostly shut, is LP water heater working good. If real low flow to burners shut of LP main valve wait an open again slowly the full to back seat of LP valve try again.
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Old 06-13-2022, 10:03 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Check the stove burners. I wonder if you triggered high gas flow shut off and its only mostly shut, is LP water heater working good. If real low flow to burners shut of LP main valve wait an open again slowly the full to back seat of LP valve try again.
Quite possible^^^^^ Good catch!

Ran out of propane then Valved in the second cylinder
If valved in too quickly the Excess Flow Device inside the ACME Nut can trip.......limits flow of propane resulting in low flames

Simple thing to check for........just close the Cylinder OPD valve/wait 30 seconds and then SLOWLY open back up
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Old 06-13-2022, 10:10 AM   #14
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Just a thought if , other appliances are working .

It appears to me from the photo of your flame , that the propane jet , maybe loose in the manifold ; threads visible and seal ring not compressed .
Could be northern roads have shaken things around.
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