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Tomjhall · 08-14-2020, 08:46 PM

Hello everyone it’s been a very long time since I posted. I recently purchased a “take out” of a brand new RM1350 ($400). It had never been used and is working perfectly wit one small exception. The interior light doesn’t work. It cooled to 33 degrees over night, I was excited. I then noticed the interior light doesn’t work. I have all the documents and schematics. I’m a pretty good electronics technician but I’m blown away by the design of the interior light circuit it doesn’t make sense to me but obviously I must be wrong....

I checked the bulb and it’s good, even jumped 12v and it lit up. I don’t understand the way the pins on the doors work to make the light come on. The unit has an ambient system that will turn the light on, I haven’t seen that work probably because it’s a 109 degrees. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. I get 12v on the red wire to the lamp and 12v on the other side too. I did disconnect the ambient black wire P7 in hopes that would correct the problem. No luck. I’d appreciate any help. Thanks

HarryStone · 08-16-2020, 09:51 PM

The circuit seems fairly simple to me. Power supplied by circuit board to lamp. Either of the door switches will supply ground, and turn the lamp on. The other black wire going back to the circuit board must also supply a switched ground. Have you checked continuity on the door switches? Have you checked the continuity of the ground wire from the lamp socket to central ground? Have you applied just a ground to the black wire from a known good ground on the fridge to verify that circuit works?

Steve721 · 08-21-2020, 06:58 AM

I had this same issue last year. While going over all the systems, I noticed the fridge light wouldn't come on when the door was open. Tried everything as you did also. Bulb was good and there was power at the bulb socket as well as a ground at the other side of the bulb. Couldn't figure it out so I gave up for now. Then when we were on our 4 day trip, I noticed it started working. Don't know why. Now getting things ready for this years trips, I noticed it wasn't working again. I think it's possessed or just happy to be finally camping.

HarryStone · 08-21-2020, 07:05 PM

Power and ground is all that is needed. Possibly a bad bulb base? Or phantom 12 V DC?

Jlo11111 · 08-21-2020, 07:59 PM

If it's like my Dometic, there's a 5 cent microswitch in the door latch that controls the light. It's soldered in which is stupid. I called Dometic to see if they could send me a new 5 cent switch and they said no, they have to send me an entire new latch unit. $105 plus $25 shipping. The latch unit is nothing more than a few bits of plastic, a micro switch and an led light. I simply cut the wires to the latch unit and wired them into one of those internal fan and led units. For $25, i now have a hard wired internal fan and an LED light.

Tomjhall · 08-22-2020, 02:46 PM

I agree it seems like a simple circuit but it seems backwards. Opening the door takes the two pins out of the circuit so it doesn’t provide a path to ground. Closing the door seems like it could provide a ground but that makes no sense. I even put my phone in the fridge to see if the light came on when the door was shut. I pulled out my functional Norcold to put this unit it. I think it’s a steal for $400 even though the light isn’t working. It was a brand new unit for an upgrade that someone decided not to do. I’ll keep the Norcold around for a while. If anyone hears of a fix please let me know. Headed to Yellowstone and Mt Rushmore next week. First long trip in a few years.

Tomjhall · 08-22-2020, 02:49 PM

I appreciate the help. Thanks

Tomjhall · 08-22-2020, 02:54 PM

I agree the handles are cheap. I don’t think mine has any switches in the handle. It does have two spring pins on the bottom left door. I know they are part of the circuit but I haven’t figured out the ground is applied. I’m a pretty good technician and now manage 2nd level technicians Igor a federal agency. I know millions of other units work so it must be me not understanding the design. It will be fine without a light for now. Time will tell

Tomjhall · 08-28-2020, 09:56 PM

Hello all. Simple fix, my fridge didn’t have the two door switches installed. What I thought was the door switch was the door gasket heater switch. Paid 8 bucks for two switches and installed them, all good.

Schuess60 · 05-23-2021, 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tomjhall

Hello all. Simple fix, my fridge didn’t have the two door switches installed. What I thought was the door switch was the door gasket heater switch. Paid 8 bucks for two switches and installed them, all good.

Soo... I have a 1350 that the light quit working in. I have checked the switches that were on the top between the refrigerator and freezer. Are those the light switches or are they located somewhere else?

CDANIELS · 12-09-2022, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Schuess60

Soo... I have a 1350 that the light quit working in. I have checked the switches that were on the top between the refrigerator and freezer. Are those the light switches or are they located somewhere else?

I realize this thread is rather old, but we're currently having the same issue with our Dometic 1350 refrigerator. We seem to have done everything all the posters have done but still have no light in the refrigerator. Since we full time, it's extremely frustrating! Husband has checked continuity in every place possible and we have it so we're stumped. One of the switches referred to above doesn't go in/out smoothly, and they seem to be cheap plastic, maybe something as simple as replacing it might work? It has continuity. Any help would be appreciated!