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Bo · 05-24-2018, 12:28 PM

I rolled out our old camper this Spring and got all systems checked out and working before leaving on an extended trip. We travel with the refrigerator operating on gas and switch to AC when camped. The refrigerator worked well on gas the first day and ignited properly the second morning. We noted that the refrigerator was warming up by mid day so I checked to see if the auto igniter was clicking, indicating loss of flame, and did not hear a sound, flame or igniter. When arriving at the evening's camp we immediately switched to AC and the frig began cooling. We continued the trip to our first extended stay by cooling at night and warming in the day.

This RM 2510 is a lower control model.

I have checked the obvious, DC power and spark gap and have found no issue. A lengthy search on the internet found little information on the problem. My suspicions are either the switch, a pain to get at, or the igniter module, which I find no mention of in my search.

I could use some help determining/troubleshooting what has failed and any tips for repairing that doesn't require removal of the refrigerator, if possible. Removal is not in the cards until returning home.

All help will be appreciated, thanks in advance.

Bo

BFlinn181 · 05-24-2018, 04:59 PM

I'd check and clean all the connectors to the control board and the ignitor/flame sensor. If you're lucky it will just be a dirty connection. If not, you might have more expensive parts to replace.

Bo · 05-25-2018, 01:22 PM

Thanks for the suggestion Bob and Donna.

This refrigerator's controls appear quite dated and crude, no surprise. The few connections I have found are power and grounds which I checked by measuring voltage drop across the connections, all measured good. The re-igniter module appears to be hard wired with no board connector. The flame sensor appears to be mechanical and appears to be working for gas delivery, haven't found its re-igniter interface.

I have learned a bit more. When I switch to gas I get two weak sparks then no more. I can ignite the flame with a match, with help from my wife, and the frig appears to be working on gas. This appears to be a viable, but inconvenient, solution for the remainder of the trip. It appears I may be able to access the switch and re-igniter module by removing the burner and gas control assembly. Not sure if I will go that far at this time but will try after getting home.

Old-Biscuit · 05-25-2018, 04:06 PM

See pg 9 for continuity tests on switch assembly

See pg 10 for voltage test of Igniter

See top of pg 11 for High Voltage Cable test

Wiring diagram is on pg 16

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rm2510_52.pdf

Exploded view of fridge
Scroll down for control & burner components
http://www.laurelhurstdistributors.c.../RM2510_2.html

Bo · 08-19-2018, 08:32 PM

It has been a long time since I posted this but thought I should report back now that I've got the frig working. First, I'd like to thank all that replied.

We left for home and used the light by match while traveling and AC at night to keep the frig cool. By the third day we were in the dry western states and the ignitor began working intermittently. After getting home the frig was working but I felt I needed to determine what was going wrong since I couldn't rely on the frig continuing to work. In fact it quit working again a short time after sitting at home. I concluded that I had a moisture sensitive and intermittent ignitor and ordered a replacement. While waiting for the part I went at determining how to replace it. I discovered that the gas valve and burner assembly was held it by only two screws and could be rotated out by pivoting it on the flue. I never managed getting the flue connection removed but rotation was sufficient to access all that was needed. The burner assembly was rusted and stuck and took some prying and forcing to get it to rotate but once I got it loose and cleaned rotation was easy. After getting the assembly rotated I found that the switch body was broken between the AC and DC sections. I may have done this with all the forcing required in getting the burner assembly loose but not sure. I was able to repair the switch with JB Weld. I verified the switch was working but the ignitor still was not. I replaced the ignitor and got ignition. While in there I cleaned the burner and jet since that was due. I now had a working refrigerator.

A couple weeks ago the camper/refrigerator was taken on a test run to Yellowstone. The frig worked well except for one issue. When driving the burner blows out and must be reignited every time we would stop. I am aware that this is a common issue with these old Dometic refrigerators and I had the issue before this last repair but only under extreme wind conditions. I see that newer models have significantly more burner and air flow baffling and I assume that is Dometic's answer to the problem. I am looking for a solution to the blow out issue and am open to any suggestions or fixes you may know of.

BFlinn181 · 08-19-2018, 08:40 PM

I'd use some aluminum flashing and sheet metal screws to fashion a baffle that stops air while moving but doesn't restrict airflow in the bottom and out the top vent.

Old-Biscuit · 08-19-2018, 09:57 PM

Common issue with Class C and Truck Campers due to 'turbulence' as the air flows across the side walls...difference in cab & rv/camper

Dometic has an 'air foil baffle' kit....even has a Dometic Part Number

https://www.adventurerv.net/refriger...t-p-21023.html

Bo · 08-26-2018, 07:40 PM

Thanks Old-Biscuit. I investigated this kit and learned from Dometic that it doesn't fit my refrigerator but recommended that I copy the design and modify it to fit my frig. I constructed a burner baffle using old aluminum license plates for the metal and installed it. Frig is working but have not had a chance to take it out on a high speed road trip for a full test. If the burner baffle does not solve the problem Dometic adds baffles to the door vents but that reduces the cooling air flow when stationary and they recommend removing them on extended stationary refrigerator operation times. I found another solution to the door vent baffle fix using filter screen that apparently doesn't significantly reduce air flow. I found that on a Casita forum. I will try that first, if my burner baffle is insufficient.

puttin · 08-27-2018, 08:38 AM

In the class c we used to have I noticed in high cross winds and when trucks passed our fridge burner would go out. I took the fridge vent cover off and duct-taped approx 1/3 of the vent area from the inside. I never had the problem again and there were no other issues from heat, etc.