Dometic RM2652 not cooling Hot Flu on electric but...

[Roy Retreat]

Newmar Dutchstar 1998 DP 38 65
Dometic RM 2652 110v/Propane refrigerator
First, no lights on the refrigerator
110v and 12v power ok, propane is ok
Reset the thermocouple
Lights came on the refrigerator front, followed by a brief light up of the propane, then the refrigerator switched to electric
The heater stack/flue became hot, but the refrigerator stayed cold
Did notice a very small amount of orange dust (Ammonia leak?) (how to test?)

Running out of options, any ideas,
Switch to residential type refrigerator

[MrMark52]

Orange dust? - where?

Pictures?

When refrigerator eyebrow is in Auto, and coach is connected to shore power, then unit will run on propane.
Coach batteries MUST be good for refrigerator to run on lp or electric - unit controls are all 12VDC. (Make sure Use/Store switch is in Use position).

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Roy Retreat

Newmar Dutchstar 1998 DP 38 65
Dometic RM 2652 110v/Propane refrigerator
First, no lights on the refrigerator
110v and 12v power ok, propane is ok
Reset the thermocouple

Have to assume you mean the switch on burner stack...reset button in center

Lights came on the refrigerator front, followed by a brief light up of the propane, then the refrigerator switched to electric
The heater stack/flue became hot, but the refrigerator stayed cold
Did notice a very small amount of orange dust (Ammonia leak?) (how to test?)

Running out of options, any ideas,


Switch to residential type refrigerator

Orange dust....yellowish residue in ANY AMOUNT.........LEAK
Hi Temp Switch on Stack tripped because coolant overheated
Yellowish residue is Sodium Chromate (rust inhibitor in coolant) means cooling unit sprung a LEAK
*That 'dust' is TOXIC...do not inhale/get on hands ----must be worked WET for clean up (mask/gloves/eye protection...wet rags/spray bottle)


COOLING UNIT is TOAST
Unplug the AC cord, Disconnect/tape off DC wires to fridge

Either new replacement cooling unit, ac or DC compressor unit conversion or a Residential fridge
But that cooling unit is DEAD

[Fridge Defend]

Originally Posted by Roy Retreat

Newmar Dutchstar 1998 DP 38 65
Dometic RM 2652 110v/Propane refrigerator
First, no lights on the refrigerator
110v and 12v power ok, propane is ok
Reset the thermocouple
Lights came on the refrigerator front, followed by a brief light up of the propane, then the refrigerator switched to electric
The heater stack/flue became hot, but the refrigerator stayed cold
Did notice a very small amount of orange dust (Ammonia leak?) (how to test?)

Running out of options, any ideas,
Switch to residential type refrigerator

Your boiler most likely overheated, and they yellow powder came out of it?
Photo?

It is very uncommon for the boiler housing snap switch to trip because it is outside of the boiler insulation.

The yellow powder is the corrosion inhibitor, any ship operator hats holes in their vessel, it is no different than corrosion inhibitors in ships.

You do have two options, get a new absorption cooling unit or fridge, and protect it from boiler overheating that leads to this kind of failure. This is the best option for a person that wants to off grid.

Put in a residential fridge and say good by to a boiler that can over heat.

Hope this is what you are seeking

[Roy Retreat]

Originally Posted by Roy Retreat

Newmar Dutchstar 1998 DP 38 65
Dometic RM 2652 110v/Propane refrigerator
First, no lights on the refrigerator
110v and 12v power ok, propane is ok
Reset the thermocouple
Lights came on the refrigerator front, followed by a brief light up of the propane, then the refrigerator switched to electric
The heater stack/flue became hot, but the refrigerator stayed cold
Did notice a very small amount of orange dust (Ammonia leak?) (how to test?)

Running out of options, any ideas,
Switch to residential type refrigerator

Thanks to all who helped me understand what was going on.
After considering all the options, and noting that we don't dry camp much, we have elected to move to a residential replacement. We can disassemble/destroy the old one to get it out, will try to take off the DStar door and get the new one in...

Once again, thanks for all the help and insight

[Old-Biscuit]

DO NOT cut into the Cooling Unit anywhere........

Danger, Danger Roy
Can still have AMMONIA, Sodium Chromate and possibly trapped Hydrogen Gas (depending on where the leak is located)

[Fridge Defend]

Originally Posted by Roy Retreat

Thanks to all who helped me understand what was going on.
After considering all the options, and noting that we don't dry camp much, we have elected to move to a residential replacement. We can disassemble/destroy the old one to get it out, will try to take off the DStar door and get the new one in...

Once again, thanks for all the help and insight

Sounds like a good decision on your behalf.

Please either send us the spare parts such as burner assembly and controls, or offer to give them away here in iRV2.

We give parts to folks that need them when they are sent to us for free.

Pass on the goodness