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Old 10-03-2022, 04:39 PM   #1
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Dometic water heater blowing out

I have the new Dometic water heater with the smaller vent. This guy...

I've narrowed it down to what I assume is the exhaust being blown back into the intake and causing the water heater to shut down within a minute or so of starting.

Basically if there is any breeze at all it acts like it is starved for air and shuts down. It will run with the door open in these moments. I had a tech take a look and of course it ran fine because there was zero wind that day.

Anyone else having this issue?

I found this YouTube video which seems similar but the fix suggested does nothing in my case.

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Old 10-03-2022, 05:36 PM   #2
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Sounds like flame is being pushed away from the spark electrode
Spark Electrode provides Flame Proving to circuit board after flame ignition

Make sure Electrode is ENGULFED in the flame.....



****I am not a fan of Dometics replacement of Atwood models
They moved the AC Element to outside compartment (GOOD) but to do so they had to redesign the combustion/exhaust 'U' tube (stacked vs diagonal)
That placed the combustion directly below the exhaust. That required a reworked Intake/Exhaust.
ON the 6 gal model the 'thermal fuse' is located directly under exhaust and they are having premature failures of thermal fuse
They also went to a venturi designed burner tube w/o air shutter and spreader plate like the Atwood versions
**Can't buy individual components...have to buy whole gas train (orifice/burner assembly/gas valve)



Your...WIND issue is 1st have read about.
Hopefully repositioning of electrode solves the flame out condition
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Old 10-04-2022, 02:17 PM   #3
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Just went out to mess with this and confirmed it was still doing the same flame out. The electrode seemed engulfed to me, but maybe not ENGULFED! So I tweaked the electrode down ~1/8in and.... (pause for dramatic effect)



It runs fine with the door closed now.

Not really a windy day here today so I'll check again but it is definitely better.
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Old 10-04-2022, 02:35 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NV_Camper View Post
Just went out to mess with this and confirmed it was still doing the same flame out. The electrode seemed engulfed to me, but maybe not ENGULFED! So I tweaked the electrode down ~1/8in and.... (pause for dramatic effect)



It runs fine with the door closed now.

Not really a windy day here today so I'll check again but it is definitely better.
Glad to hear!
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Old 10-05-2022, 03:41 PM   #5
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Not really a windy day here today so I'll check again but it is definitely better.
Light breeze today, ~5mph, and its doing the same thing. Runs for 1 min or so then acts like it is starving for oxygen and goes out. But will run perfectly fine with the door open.
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Old 10-05-2022, 07:41 PM   #6
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Light breeze today, ~5mph, and its doing the same thing. Runs for 1 min or so then acts like it is starving for oxygen and goes out. But will run perfectly fine with the door open.
The OLD Atwood design used a shared vent cover for intake/exhaust
BUT the exhaust shield cover directed the exhaust out top area and directed intake air down towards bottom area of WH

The NEW Dometic uses a shared vent cover also with exhaust directed out top slot but the intake air is NOT directed downward ...it has to be pulled thru door latch bracket

I'm not sure of a 'fix' -----yours is the 1st I have read about 'wind' causing flame out
**Video was 2nd .....and he is onto design flaw but not real excited about his 'diverter scoop'
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Old 10-05-2022, 11:27 PM   #7
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I'm not into the 'diverter scoop' either and in my case I tried to replicate his paper plate test and it didn't do anything.

What do you mean by "it has to be pulled thru door latch bracket"? Are you meaning that intake air needs to come around the door?
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Old 10-05-2022, 11:51 PM   #8
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I'm not into the 'diverter scoop' either and in my case I tried to replicate his paper plate test and it didn't do anything.

What do you mean by "it has to be pulled thru door latch bracket"? Are you meaning that intake air needs to come around the door?
Vent is dual purpose
Intake area pulls air in lower louvers of the vent and then has to pass thru the 'open' area of the backet that the door latch is mounted on
That open area should allow for proper flow of intake air to burner but wind could disrupt that flow

Intake air needs to get to burner tube 'air opening' which is NOT directly below the vent but off to left side by gas valve

Enlarging the opening in bracket MAY help?????

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Old 10-06-2022, 09:11 AM   #9
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Ah, I get it looking at the picture. For a minute I thought there was some other hidden place air could be drawn in that might be blocked.

Is there no way to adjust the flame on these new models? Without the shutter I suspect notÖ
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Old 10-06-2022, 10:59 AM   #10
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Ah, I get it looking at the picture. For a minute I thought there was some other hidden place air could be drawn in that might be blocked.

Is there no way to adjust the flame on these new models? Without the shutter I suspect notÖ
NO.....

Dometic decided to go with OPEN air and a Venturi style burner
*Similar to Suburban burner tube

BUT Suburban uses an intake shield that reaches down over the combustion chamber directing air flow w/o obstacles-disruptions
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Old 11-29-2022, 01:45 PM   #11
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What would be the symptoms of high propane pressure? And how could I test that? It is acting like it has too much propane, so I'm wondering if maybe a regulator swap could help.... although nothing else propane is having an issue.
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