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h8tarheels · 05-04-2022, 03:14 PM

I have a 2003 Fleetwood Pacearrow 37A. The unit was originally a 30 amp service, however, the wifey and I wanted to have the ability to run both ac's at the same time, so we had it converted to a 50 amp service.

Since having it converted to a 50 amp service, everything has worked fine with the exception of the ac's, go figure.

For some reason when on 50 amp shore power the blowers on both ac units work, however, the compressors do not kick on so they blow hot air. I also noticed that they do not shed when turned on with shore power.

So I unhooked the rig from the 50 amp shore power and started my 5500 Onan generator then turned both of the units back on, after each did a little shedding, the compressors kicked on and both were blowing cold air.

I have had a couple of "RV" people look at this, including the one who did the conversion from 30 to 50 amp, and nothing has fixed the issue....

This may be a unique situation, but I'm getting desperate since the hot summer months are quickly approaching, and would love to have any suggestions from the experts on this forum...

Thanks in advance!

andy29847 · 05-04-2022, 03:31 PM

I like to read the electrical problems and help if I can. In your case, I don't know your coach and I didn't know what shedding meant. I looked it up and while reading the findings, I discovered this answer in a thread on another forum:

I suspect the OP has a 30amp coach with the Intellitec ECC system installed. Do a Google search on Intellitec ECC and read the manual.

Question: I'm having a problem with my front AC shedding. I can have nothing else running in the coach and it will still shed. I'm trying to determine if I've got a AC problem or a controller problem. I've hooked up an amp meter to the front AC and it's not drawing any more power that the rear on start up or running. If I run just the rear it'll stay running until the set temperature is reached then the compressor will cycle normally. Switch back to the front and it starts to shed toggling the LED display between red and green. I was going to try changing all three capacitors on the front AC but wanted to see if there was any way to rule out the controller???

To the OP;
The total current drawn through the current sensor, monitoring current through your main circuit breaker, is the only thing that is supposed to be causing "shedding". It certainly sounds like there is something different between the operation of two A/C units.

The manual describes the normal test procedures, but you can swap the plugs on the controller (J2 and J3) to determine if the problem stays with the front unit or moves to the rear. This would either eliminate or indict the controller.

There is also a test switch on the controller that helps isolate problems between controller and units. Again, the procedure is in the manual.

Turbojack · 05-04-2022, 03:45 PM

Agree with Andy. The system was not rewired where it will recognize the 50 amp 240v power and thinks when it is on shore power it is only 30 amps.

jacwjames · 05-05-2022, 06:54 AM

X3 on the EMS controller.

Your rig probably had the 30 amp EMS, with the upgrade to a 50 amp system did you upgrade the EMS to a 50 amp unit?

**Lt Dan** · 05-05-2022, 08:05 AM

If you have the Intellitec EMS display, do you see current draw when you are on 50 amp service? If you do, then it's still sensing it as 30 amp. If it's a 50 amp model and working correctly, it will not display amperage draw on 50 amp. I converted our 2006 Itasca from 30 amp to 50 amp service. I thought it was faulty when it no longer displayed current draw but on researching it I found it does not display on 50 amp. You have to make sure the sensor coil is on the neutral line. It is odd that the A/C blowers will run but not the compressors since the EMS is supposed to cut all power to the A/C when in shedding.

donr103 · 05-05-2022, 10:55 AM

Just WAG... so take this idea with grain of salt...
If I remember.. there is a voltage sensor coil that tells Intellic control board to shed..
One might try to unplug voltage sensor coil and try that.. it's free and should be simple..
Use all safety precautions... if you don't understand electric.. have tech that does and suggest that.. and stay right with them to verify he has actually tried it.. sometimes if you just drop rv to dealer .. they might just brush you off..
If that does not work.. you could try moving coil to different sources...
Just and idea.. to try and fool the sensor.. this I would try.. only if above advice turns up nothing..
Mine is buried under frig and behind fuse/breaker box.. I used my cellphone with camera and flash and record way up under there and I can see the test jumpers that is in advice above... so if you can't see yours.. use your cell phone with camera and flash and record all wires... as long as you fully unplug coach.. no gen.. there should be no problem..
Also.. is your digital read out or the old fashioned analog type..?
Good luck and keep us posted

h8tarheels · 05-06-2022, 06:03 AM

Thanks everyone,

Yesterday I had someone take another look at it and he did some trial and error things to try and figure out what the issue is.

Since the coach was originally 30 amp it has a couple of different toggle switches for different appliances in the rig. For instance one has washer/dryer on one side and microwave on the other side. The other one has washer/dryer & microwave on one side and water heater on the other side.

My guy discovered that if the toggle is on washer/dryer and you actually turn the dryer on and running, OR if the toggle is on water heater, then turn the a/c units on they both shed properly and the compressors turn on like normal and they cool beautifully. But as soon as you turn the dryer off the compressors shut off again....

It seems in the interim I can keep the toggle on water heater, but I'm not sure if, once the water is heated to temperature and it stops heating, if that will stop the compressor???

We are going camping for memorial day at the beach and I have an RV guy there who is aware of everything and is going to take a look at it for me, but if anyone has any further suggestions I would love to hear them...

BTW, I am not an electrician by any means...

spyderRV · 05-06-2022, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by h8tarheels

Since the coach was originally 30 amp it has a couple of different toggle switches for different appliances in the rig

The Intellitec controller has a current sensor "donut" on the original 30 amp main feed. It looks for current to be around one amp for about three minutes before it will allow the compressors to come on. In case of a momentary power interruption so the compressors head pressure will bleed down and allow them to start. I imagine in the conversion to 50 amp it is possible that both ACs are on the new leg therefore the current "donut" is not seeing enough current to trigger the compressors to turn on. This is suggested by the fact that you turn on something else, that current is seen and the compressors will work.