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Old 08-04-2022, 10:15 AM   #1
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Electrical issue with water pump

We have a 2013 Winnebago VIA 25R and the coach water pump stopped working. The coach has been in an RV repair shop for approx. 4 weeks, but the shop has been unable to get the pump to start working. The following repairs have been made: (1) the Pump Control was replaced (2) the Master Control Panel replaced, the fuse has been checked, the water pump works when directly wired to a power supply and they have run a sepeate ground wire to the existing ground wire that goes to the pump control. If anybody has ever had this problem, please let me know what was done to correct the issue.
Thanks,
Jim
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Old 08-04-2022, 01:05 PM   #2
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A water pump circuit is such a simple design, can't imagine the trouble. As long as 12 VDC power is present and a good ground provided, nothing outside the pump will keep it from working.

You are aware the pump only runs when the static water pressure drops in the coach? The 12 VDC wire connects to the pressure switch part of the pump first. Opening a faucet will drop the static pressure and the switch sends power to run the pump. When faucet is closed, pressure builds and switch turns off pump.

If you rv shop ran test power to the pump after the switch to make it run and not thru the pressure switch, there may be the trouble. Have them test the pressure switch.
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Old 08-04-2022, 01:54 PM   #3
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DO you have One pump on/off switch or Multiple On/Off Switches?
*If Multiple are they 'momentary' (push/spring back) vs On/Off type?


You mentioned pump controller so I would think multiple momentary switches
Uses a Latching Relay........Power to pump and switches provide ground path




Problem could be Latching Relay
Fuse on DC+ to pump/latching relay
Ground circuit(s)
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Old 08-04-2022, 07:34 PM   #4
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If you click the link at the top of the Winnebago forum, it leads to detailed wiring schematics from Winnebago, then follow the drill-down menus to your specific model wiring schematics.
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Old 08-05-2022, 06:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
If you click the link at the top of the Winnebago forum, it leads to detailed wiring schematics from Winnebago, then follow the drill-down menus to your specific model wiring schematics.
Thank you and thanks for your service!
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Old 08-05-2022, 06:39 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by code2e View Post
A water pump circuit is such a simple design, can't imagine the trouble. As long as 12 VDC power is present and a good ground provided, nothing outside the pump will keep it from working.

You are aware the pump only runs when the static water pressure drops in the coach? The 12 VDC wire connects to the pressure switch part of the pump first. Opening a faucet will drop the static pressure and the switch sends power to run the pump. When faucet is closed, pressure builds and switch turns off pump.

If you rv shop ran test power to the pump after the switch to make it run and not thru the pressure switch, there may be the trouble. Have them test the pressure switch.
Thank you. I think the shop has done this but I will relay the information. We picked up the RV yesterday so we could take our granddaughters (ages 9 & 5) to the Lake for 3 days. I noticed last night when testing the levels for the LP, Gray and Black tanks, the Black tank does not show up.
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Old 08-05-2022, 06:49 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
DO you have One pump on/off switch or Multiple On/Off Switches?
*If Multiple are they 'momentary' (push/spring back) vs On/Off type?


You mentioned pump controller so I would think multiple momentary switches
Uses a Latching Relay........Power to pump and switches provide ground path




Problem could be Latching Relay
Fuse on DC+ to pump/latching relay
Ground circuit(s)
Thanks for your reply.

We have multiple switches, the switch on the control panel is a push button and it no longers works; it stays in an off position. The switch in the bath room and outside by the outside shower are both push/ button. We picked the RV up yesterday form the shop so we could take our granddaughters to the lake for 3 days. We will be hooked up to shore power & water at the lake RV park. However, when testing the LP last night, the gray holding tank shows up, but the Black tank does not. The LP, Gray & Black fluid levels were all working before the Control Panel was changed.
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Old 08-05-2022, 07:05 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
If you click the link at the top of the Winnebago forum, it leads to detailed wiring schematics from Winnebago, then follow the drill-down menus to your specific model wiring schematics.
Ray, as mentioned in my previous response, I appreciate your help. However,I am not the most computer literate person and I'm unable to locate the link you mentioned. Our RV is a 2013 Winnebago VIA 25R. If you would send me a link, it would be Greatly Appreciated.
Thanks again,
Jim
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Old 08-05-2022, 03:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmymc View Post
Thanks for your reply.

We have multiple switches, the switch on the control panel is a push button and it no longers works; it stays in an off position. The switch in the bath room and outside by the outside shower are both push/ button. We picked the RV up yesterday form the shop so we could take our granddaughters to the lake for 3 days. We will be hooked up to shore power & water at the lake RV park. However, when testing the LP last night, the gray holding tank shows up, but the Black tank does not. The LP, Gray & Black fluid levels were all working before the Control Panel was changed.
You might have just identified the problem without noticing. Since you have multiple switches, any one of them can provide a ground to the module. The control panel switch that is stuck "off" may be keeping a ground connected. That will keep all other switches from changing module to "on".

I would locate the module, likely near the water pump. Disconnect the "switch" wire. See if it is constant ground. If so, you could just touch it to the module terminal to turn module on. Leave it unhooked and touch again to turn off when needed. Find the switch problem when you get back.
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Old 08-05-2022, 05:54 PM   #10
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jimmymc-

The online parts diagram says there's a pump controller in the rear-most exterior storage compartment on the driver's side. It may be mounted to the top of the compartment. If you don't find it there, check the space immediately above that compartment.
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Old 08-05-2022, 06:37 PM   #11
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Once again bitten by the “typed up a long response” and it went into electron space I will do a copy and paste from my word document program.

I usually save and then edit as I go along or at least do a copy to the clipboard just in case but alas, things evaporated.

I will skip over the why you can get fooled by voltmeters so will jump to suggestions.
Find the controller. Disconnect the input wire and connect it to the load/pump wire.
If the pump runs and builds pressure and then stops as it should we can move on to other areas.
You could have a bad connection supply power to the controller which may be as simple as a loose nut on a breaker/fuse.

If the pump worked then it is the between the stuff of course.
I believe they substituted or replaced your controller so you should know by now where it is located of course or you would not be able to do the test I suggested.
You could spend many hours doing voltage tests but a digital voltmeter may just lie to you and a 12 volt test light can be very effective.
You need a good clean ground for your voltmeter and better yet, a simple cheap 12-volt test light.
With either of those grounded you should probe the ground connection on the controller while someone is toggling the switch on and off.
If you see any hint of a voltage showing up on the ground then the ground is defective.
Substitution is a great troubleshooting tool and you have tested/replaced the controller and supplied your voltage to the pump.
Once these have been isolated, you probably should just do some basic things such as disconnecting any switch inputs to the controller. Then just toggle that pin with a simple jumper to the ground.
Speaking of grounds. A bad ground on the controller could drive you batty as well so tighten and clean those connections. Run another ground, to the ground pin on the controller if you have any doubts.
Substituting your own switch input via a simple jumper should isolate that as a potential issue.
If you are able to control things using your own jumper then you need to reconnect the input switch connection to retest If that is found to be the culprit you need to open every switch position and disconnect them. Reconnect one at a time to see if one is acting up.

Your tank issues are not likely related but I do not have a clear picture of how they may physically entwine.

However, always make note of any symptoms, whether they seem important or not. I have had to beat information out of people at times to get that critical seemingly nonimportant clue
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Old 08-06-2022, 10:16 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by jimmymc View Post
Ray, as mentioned in my previous response, I appreciate your help. However,I am not the most computer literate person and I'm unable to locate the link you mentioned. Our RV is a 2013 Winnebago VIA 25R. If you would send me a link, it would be Greatly Appreciated.
Thanks again,
Jim
I suspect code2e hit on the problem, but here are the instructions for locating Winnebago diagrams and schematice;
Go here first: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/win...ogs-19250.html


Then click on wiring diagrams,
next, select the year of your RV,
next select the model of your RV,
and this should appear: https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ire_180049.pdf


I hope my crude instructions are clear enough to follow.
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Old 08-08-2022, 06:38 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by code2e View Post
You might have just identified the problem without noticing. Since you have multiple switches, any one of them can provide a ground to the module. The control panel switch that is stuck "off" may be keeping a ground connected. That will keep all other switches from changing module to "on".

I would locate the module, likely near the water pump. Disconnect the "switch" wire. See if it is constant ground. If so, you could just touch it to the module terminal to turn module on. Leave it unhooked and touch again to turn off when needed. Find the switch problem when you get back.
Thank you. Prior to taking the RV to the shop, I changed the Pump Control that is located near the pump. It's my understanding, the repair shop has checked this, but I will follow up with them this week.
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Old 08-08-2022, 06:46 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
Once again bitten by the “typed up a long response” and it went into electron space I will do a copy and paste from my word document program.

I usually save and then edit as I go along or at least do a copy to the clipboard just in case but alas, things evaporated.

I will skip over the why you can get fooled by voltmeters so will jump to suggestions.
Find the controller. Disconnect the input wire and connect it to the load/pump wire.
If the pump runs and builds pressure and then stops as it should we can move on to other areas.
You could have a bad connection supply power to the controller which may be as simple as a loose nut on a breaker/fuse.

If the pump worked then it is the between the stuff of course.
I believe they substituted or replaced your controller so you should know by now where it is located of course or you would not be able to do the test I suggested.
You could spend many hours doing voltage tests but a digital voltmeter may just lie to you and a 12 volt test light can be very effective.
You need a good clean ground for your voltmeter and better yet, a simple cheap 12-volt test light.
With either of those grounded you should probe the ground connection on the controller while someone is toggling the switch on and off.
If you see any hint of a voltage showing up on the ground then the ground is defective.
Substitution is a great troubleshooting tool and you have tested/replaced the controller and supplied your voltage to the pump.
Once these have been isolated, you probably should just do some basic things such as disconnecting any switch inputs to the controller. Then just toggle that pin with a simple jumper to the ground.
Speaking of grounds. A bad ground on the controller could drive you batty as well so tighten and clean those connections. Run another ground, to the ground pin on the controller if you have any doubts.
Substituting your own switch input via a simple jumper should isolate that as a potential issue.
If you are able to control things using your own jumper then you need to reconnect the input switch connection to retest If that is found to be the culprit you need to open every switch position and disconnect them. Reconnect one at a time to see if one is acting up.

Your tank issues are not likely related but I do not have a clear picture of how they may physically entwine.

However, always make note of any symptoms, whether they seem important or not. I have had to beat information out of people at times to get that critical seemingly nonimportant clue
Thanks for the great explanation. We just returned from taking our granddaughters to the lake for the weekend and my plan is to take the RV back to the repair shop. Thanks again, Jim
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