Everchill 12V refrigerator blows fuses

[starview]

New to this page and hoping someone can help me with my 12V fridge problem. Bought a new leftover 2019 KZ Connect 35 ft 303RL camper back the end of June. The problem I'm having is with the Everchill 12V 10 cu ft fridge. The fridge is 12V only and it starts and gets cold quickly. The problem is that it blows the 20AMP fuse regularly about every 18 hours of run time??? Been trying to figure this one out! My wife and I use it every other weekend and since just before July 4th weekend we've replaced about 15 fuses!

Called Beckley's in Thurmont Md where we bought the camper and of course the response is bring the camper in. Problem is I'm setup on a permanent site. Major pain to hook backup and take in every time there might be a problem! Takes a while to reset up and re level on blocks every time something needs done. Makes more sense if I was a weekender and towed back and forth all the time.

So they did send a repair guy to the campground and replaced the control board last week and it worked fine, while they were there. They had the same fridge in another camper that was acting the same way and the control panel fixed it. Problem for me is it's still acting the same. Runs about 18 hours, then blows another fuse. Replaced three last weekend.

So now they wanted me to bring the camper in. I told them I'll disconnect and bring the fridge to them. Wish that KZ would just swap it out for another fridge because back and forth to fix a brand new fridge shouldn't be the way the warranty works. Anyhow, I'm dissconnecting it and going to Beckly's with it on Wednesday. This way then can plug it in at their shop and see what they can find out. I've read how a lot of people like there 12V only fridges on here. My thoughts are the Everchill 12V fridges have problems!!

[starview]

anyone have an Everchill fridge with similar problems?

[Pappion]

Don't know your model, but here is a manual I found on line.

https://primetimerv.com/pdf/117021/W...DC_User_Manual


Page 2 covers the DC 10.5-17V needed. Also shows a table with larger wire gauges for longer wires (to battery). I bet that's to limit voltage drop. A motor may draw more amps at lower voltage, especially at startup. Also 10.5V is a shut down level. IMHO the wire gauges they specify are a little light for length. Blue Sea systems has some nice information.
http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso...ence/20010.pdf


Frig manual specs >15A supply (page5). Page 2 says 20A max. No where does it specify the fuse size. According to Little Fuse, generally, to prevent nuisance blows the current should be less than 75% of fuse rating. It should be a slow-blow or delay fuse for a motor. Fuses blow due to heat, they are self heating. They should not be near other heat sources or tucked away with no ventilation. Also de-rate some % for fuse holder types.

[towersk]

Is the fuse in your power distribution center? A 20A fuse for a 15A continuous load is pretty thin. For example my furnace draws 7A and is protected with a 15A fuse.

Also the compressor start-up current could be 50% or more above the rated run current. I think you are just fatiguing the fuse and it eventually blows. You could check the current draw with a clamp-on DC ammeter, you can find them on eBay or Amazon for around $40. You probably need to increase the fuse size to 25A or 30A.

[starview]

I was debating about trying a 25 AMP fuse but wasn't sure if that may be too much for the 12 gauge wire that they probably used for hooking up the fridge?

[starview]

Thanks for the info. Do you think it's ok to try a 25AMP fuse?

[Solo_RV_Guy]

Originally Posted by starview

Thanks for the info. Do you think it's ok to try a 25AMP fuse?

No. I'd be calling the Everchill distributor before substituting fuses. They are failing because something isn't right. The fuses have told you 15 times....


The reality is your dealer has no clue. Call the importer slash distributor.

[starview]

Originally Posted by Pappion

Don't know your model, but here is a manual I found on line.

https://primetimerv.com/pdf/117021/W...DC_User_Manual


Page 2 covers the DC 10.5-17V needed. Also shows a table with larger wire gauges for longer wires (to battery). I bet that's to limit voltage drop. A motor may draw more amps at lower voltage, especially at startup. Also 10.5V is a shut down level. IMHO the wire gauges they specify are a little light for length. Blue Sea systems has some nice information.
http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso...ence/20010.pdf


Frig manual specs >15A supply (page5). Page 2 says 20A max. No where does it specify the fuse size. According to Little Fuse, generally, to prevent nuisance blows the current should be less than 75% of fuse rating. It should be a slow-blow or delay fuse for a motor. Fuses blow due to heat, they are self heating. They should not be near other heat sources or tucked away with no ventilation. Also de-rate some % for fuse holder types.

Thanks for the bluesea chart! If I'm reading it correctly, it shows for the 10% drop of 2-20Ft 0f 12 AWG wire I can use up to a 25 AMP fuse?

[starview]

Originally Posted by Pappion

Don't know your model, but here is a manual I found on line.

https://primetimerv.com/pdf/117021/W...DC_User_Manual


Page 2 covers the DC 10.5-17V needed. Also shows a table with larger wire gauges for longer wires (to battery). I bet that's to limit voltage drop. A motor may draw more amps at lower voltage, especially at startup. Also 10.5V is a shut down level. IMHO the wire gauges they specify are a little light for length. Blue Sea systems has some nice information.
http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso...ence/20010.pdf


Frig manual specs >15A supply (page5). Page 2 says 20A max. No where does it specify the fuse size. According to Little Fuse, generally, to prevent nuisance blows the current should be less than 75% of fuse rating. It should be a slow-blow or delay fuse for a motor. Fuses blow due to heat, they are self heating. They should not be near other heat sources or tucked away with no ventilation. Also de-rate some % for fuse holder types.

Found that advance auto parts carries the 20 AMP slo blows. Buying two of them tomorrow and will try this weekend. That way not incresing the AMP capacity of the fuse. thyanks for the recommendation.

[twinboat]

Every 18 hours seems like its probably going into a defrost cycle. Bad heating element will overload the fuse.

[Pappion]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Every 18 hours seems like its probably going into a defrost cycle. Bad heating element will overload the fuse.

Could be. Might be able to disconnect it.
Ohm it out, but don't know what it is supposed to be. Just check to see if it shorted to frame.


Also saw a picture of frig label. It says 11A. So, if startup is 50% higher, it puts it in nuisance blow area for 20A fuse. Startup is brief and I hope the slo-blow works for you.

[starview]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Every 18 hours seems like its probably going into a defrost cycle. Bad heating element will overload the fuse.

Well it wasn't the fuse! Couldn't get a slo blo in the size fuse for the panel. Checked the wire size and 12 ga wire could handle a 25 AMP fuse if wire run is less than 20 ft. Used a 25 AMP and same thing blows two a day!

So, I'm thinking you may be correct on the defrost. taking the fridge out and back to the dealer for them to fix or replace. thanks for every ones input on here!

[AnotherMike]

Please let us know what happens...

Mike

[starview]

Update on the fridge. Went up to the camper on Friday. Took out the fridge and temporary put a under counter bar fridge in. Took the fridge back to the dealer. They hooked it up Saturday and it's been running fine. Yesterday they moved but thermostats to max settings. Today it was still running fine 39 deg fridge and 0 deg freezer.

My next thought is the built in cabinet may not have enough ventilation? The bar fridge puts out a good bit of heat from running. Even though it has about 2 feet of clearance above. The everchill when in place, barley has 1 1/2" per side of clearance all the way around. There isn't any vent or exhaust fan to remove this hot air. Could this be causing the compressor to overheat after running a while and blow the fuse????