Filtering hot water heater output

[tpaul]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Try a Power Flush

Remove drain plug

Turn Water supply back ON and let it BLAST out the drain hole

Both Atwood/Dometic & Suburban models have dip tubes on cold inlet and hot outlet
Cold dip tube points downward to create a temporal zone while pushing the hot out at the top

With drain plug removed the cold will rush in, stir up the bottom and BLAST out the drain hole

I remember seeing something about the inlet tube being directed down. Didn't think about using that to my advantage. Thanks for the idea.

Any thoughts about removing the AC element to examine it?

[tpaul]

Or maybe I should look into something like

https://recpro.com/portable-rv-water...ntent=Plumbing

[SailorSam]

The mineral deposits take a while to build up. You can clean them out by filling the WH with a 50/50 solution of water and plain white vinegar. Drain the WH, replace the plug or anode, open the pressure relief valve and use your winterization process to suck in the vinegar solution - it will go directly to th WH. Let it sit overnight cold or turn on the WH to heat it up and let sit for a couple hours. Leave the pressure valve open until after you drain the WH of the vinegar. Rinse the WH well after draining the vinegar.
I do this to my rig every other year as part of winterization.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by tpaul

I remember seeing something about the inlet tube being directed down. Didn't think about using that to my advantage. Thanks for the idea.

Any thoughts about removing the AC element to examine it?

Originally Posted by tpaul

Or maybe I should look into something like

https://recpro.com/portable-rv-water...ntent=Plumbing

AC heater element is easy to access with it being in the outside compartment---- 1 1/4" threaded hole when removed
1 1/2" flange (6 point socket)
*Caution: gasket for element --- old ones may not seal if reused


As for potable Softener.......We used a On-The-Go when we FT'd for 7 yrs traveling weekly.
We used our fresh water tank/pump exclusively......filled using the softener as needed. We drank the water, showered, washed dishes etc. Only used bottled water to make coffee.
BUT------WE Didn't have the issue of Anode Rods. Atwood water heater with Aluminum Tank


*Hard water & Aluminum Anode Rods are good match
*Hard water & Magnesium Anode rods ----faster corrosion of the rod/more debris in tank from the rod
*Softener & Magnesium........soft water adds sodium which will corrode a magnesium rod faster/more debris in tank then if no softener


I would swap to an Aluminum Anode Rod & do Power Flushes
Check results before going with a softener

[razahoryin]

Service my waterheater yearly.
Never a problem
Start there- service a little more frequently
Untill your happy with the results..
Ie no or minimal deposits

[helloroad]

I soften and filter all water entering TV System has a pre filter then softener then outlet filter that eliminates all the bacteria stuff the standard filter before it enters Rv I have dark on that camp water has caro issues The water softener I saw in FMCA mag years ago and still works well I regularly regenerate with Morton pellets

[DLB JR]

I have a water softener on our coach. I don't get any deposits on faucets. Is this because of the softener? Only filter on coach is typical disposable hose filter.

[DarkSideJeep]

Originally Posted by tpaul

I'm too often having to clean deposits that plug up my faucets coming most likely from the hot water heater. Has anyone put a filter in the line coming off the water heater? If so, what kind?

You need to filter the water going into your RV and you also need a Water softener. Once you have that you will also need to replace the anode in your heater and thoroughly flush the heater tank. If you have an Atwood water heater with an aluminum tank there will not be an anode, in that case you will need to descale the tank using vinegar as shown here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0m4m1CYiUYc