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Dschlieder · 10-09-2022, 06:38 PM

Sunnybrook Raven 3300CK 2014 5th wheel (or 13 depending on which document I use).

Several years ago I had part of my underbelly rip out in strong winds in North and South Dakota.

I bought some replacement material and covered it back up. But before I did I discovered a large sheet of OSB board sitting on top of the underbelly below the tank. Wasn't supported by any means other than the belly liner so I removed it and pitched it.

Now I find myself having to open up the bottom of the trailer again. But not as far back as the fresh water tank. Anyone who has had to deal with the underbelly liner I'm sure appreciates what a pain it is to both remove and replace. They didn't make them easy to do.

Looking at the fresh water tank it's sagging a lot below the angle iron supporting the tank. And it's pulled away from the brackets. I now believe that piece of OSB board was integral to the support of the tank.

So I'm positive I need to replace that board and get it under the tank.

Just looking for conformation that this is normal that there is a board under the tank as I hate assuming.

Thanks

Old-Biscuit · 10-09-2022, 08:13 PM

I would forgo OSB and add 2 metal straps side to side across the bottom of tank

Dschlieder · 10-10-2022, 12:20 PM

Thanks again Old-Biscuit, for help with my black water and this issue.

I'll probably follow up once I get the underbelly removed and can get a feel for what it really looks like under it. Fix it then I can start putting the underbelly back in place.

I feel I have to do something. Planning a winter trip through desolate part of Nevada and would hate to have it drop out and cause a major problem.

Regards,

Dave

Dschlieder · 10-10-2022, 01:41 PM

Old-Biscuit,

So I removed the underbelly liner and got a good look at what I'm dealing with. The bottom of the tank is sagging by about 4 1/2 inches. So unless I put something flat under it, like osb or plywood, it'll always have several gallons of water sitting in the bottom. Most of the leading edge of the tank is actually not sitting on the ledge of the angle iron support. I can stick a knife blade up through about 2/3 of the length.

So off to Lowe's...

Thanks,

And thank you for your service!

I'm Navy too. USS Marvin Shields - DE 1066

SJ-Chris · 10-10-2022, 02:11 PM

It doesn't sound like the original piece of wood was doing much of anything if it wasn't even attached to anything, but let's ignore that....

What about cutting a piece of plywood or OSB to the approximate length and width of the water tank and then strap up the water tank with a couple extra straps with that piece of wood underneath? You could also use some very small screws to screw the strap to the plywood underneath (make sure they aren't long enough to go all the way through and puncture your water tank!).

-Chris

Dschlieder · 10-10-2022, 05:08 PM

Chris,

Thanks for the input.

I've cut a new piece of OSB to the size it needs to be. I've even put three 2x2 wood stiffeners across the width just to give it extra strength so it shouldn't be able to bow and sag. Now the next step will be to remove the 4 bolts that hold the front Z frame support in place. I should then be able to slide the board between tank and the back Z support frame, put a jack under it, slide the front Z frame back and re-install the 4 bolts. Drop the jack and should be good.

Since the tank free floats side to side I'm going to use some expanding foam to lock it down a bit. Probably overkill bot I don't want to go through pulling the belly again.

Then I get to move forward to the issues I have with my black water tank.

Have a great day!

Dave

SJ-Chris · 10-10-2022, 10:27 PM

2x2s might sag over time. I would suggest metal-L lengths. They will NOT sag ever.

Good luck.
Chris

Old-Biscuit · 10-12-2022, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SJ-Chris

2x2s might sag over time. I would suggest metal-L lengths. They will NOT sag ever.

Good luck.
Chris

1 1/2" angle iron for supports.......2 self tapping screws in each end into the trailer frame

TravelSolo · 10-13-2022, 11:53 AM

two runs of 12ga Unistrut and some unistrut beam hangers if your frame is I-beam style and the tank is flush with the bottom of the frame

Mudfrog · 10-13-2022, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TravelSolo

two runs of 12ga Unistrut and some unistrut beam hangers if your frame is I-beam style and the tank is flush with the bottom of the frame

I like this idea, if it's workable for the OP's situation. I agree that wood 2x2s may bow a bit if they're very long.

Dschlieder · 10-14-2022, 04:08 PM

All,

Thanks for all the input. I agree that metal extrusions would be stronger.

That being said I've already completed my repairs using OSB and 2x2's.

The original OSB was supposed to be above the z frames (which run the width of the trailer) and below the tank. I'm assuming it was cut too narrow and fell out sometime after the trailer was manufactured. Possibly sagged just enough to drop out. Although with all the issues I've had I can imagine it left the plant this way.

So support across the width of the trailer between the I-beams of the trailer is more than sufficient, as I did put the replacement board on top of those supports.

Since the OSB is only about 34 inches wide, I believe the three 2x2's running that length that I glued and screwed to the OSB will be more then sufficient.

Top that off with I rarely dry camp and usually only carry a few gallons to be able to flush the toilet, it probably won't ever have enough weight in it to make it sag any significant amount.

40 some odd years ago I built a loft bed for my son. The 1/4" plywood had 2x2 supports. That bed has been in use for many years through a number of family members. If it's sagging I can't detect it.

Thanks again,

Dave