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Old 08-10-2022, 10:08 PM   #29
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We're leaving tomorrow morning for Colorado, since we've been here back in the triple digits, the fridge will not cool below 50, freezer is fine, fridge not. Truly thinking about either going to a domestic type unit or an Amish brand RV fridge. This has been a pain in my rear since we bought it.
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Old 08-12-2022, 06:03 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mroe View Post
Yes I packed insulation around back around the boiler and the sensor followed the install instructions to the letter. Just after installing the arp unit I did not notice it going into and off mode from overheating this issue just started not sure what changed.
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Old 08-14-2022, 07:52 AM   #31
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Same problem, fixed it!

Recently I could not keep my Dometic RM7832 running, as my Fridge Defend was shutting it down and going into boiler overheat protection mode. Checking the boiler temp at the Fridge Defend display though showed the boiler temp to be 370F, which is well within normal operating range (365 - 383F.) So the problem may not be your fridge; but rather the Fridge Defend installation.

The Fridge Defend instructions me showed how to view diagnostic variables, some of which were:
AbS: 570F (Maximum boiler temp seen),
tr: 028 (# of times triggered), and
OPn: 090 (# times problem with boiler sensor wiring).

This last one clued me into opening up the boiler housing to access the sensor wires and sure enough, I found the sensor wires frayed from rubbing on the boiler housing. Apparently what happened was the metal tape installed around the boiler housing failed and sprung the sheet metal, and that brought the sensor wires into contact with a sharp edge on the housing.
I taped up the wires with electrical tape and padded them with insulation to better protect from chafing, then put everything back together, though this time I added a stainless steel hose clamp around the boiler housing to keep it from springing open.
Finally I reset all of the Fridge Defend diagnostic variables and started the fridge up again. It’s been running perfectly for the last 24 hours, both on AC and in gas mode.

BTW after discovering the frayed sensor wires I filled out the contact form here on the Fridge Defend website to ask for advice, and I got a response back from Paul within 30 minutes. It was his suggestion that I try taping and re-securing the wires, and it worked.

Finally, for reference here are my cheat notes on how to use the Fridge Defend diagnostics:

Temp & voltage readings when ARP is on:
Hold Display button for 2 seconds to scroll through to see:
- Boiler temp (operating range 365 - 383F)
- Fan sensor temp
- Voltage

Check variables in Setup mode:
- Shut off ARP (Hold On/Off button until done displaying OFF)
- Enter Setup mode: Hold Setup, press On/Off, release Setup when AtO appears
- Scroll through with Display button - first the variables (about 20), then the Store function (S–), finally Error history (Er0).
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Old 08-14-2022, 08:13 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humpndunk View Post
So the problem may not be your fridge; but rather the Fridge Defend installation.



This last one clued me into opening up the boiler housing to access the sensor wires and sure enough, I found the sensor wires frayed from rubbing on the boiler housing. Apparently what happened was the metal tape installed around the boiler housing failed and sprung the sheet metal, and that brought the sensor wires into contact with a sharp edge on the housing.
I taped up the wires with electrical tape and padded them with insulation to better protect from chafing, then put everything back together, though this time I added a stainless steel hose clamp around the boiler housing to keep it from springing open.
e are my cheat notes on how to use the Fridge Defend diagnostics:
.
Good troubleshooting on your part. When I installed mine I drilled a hole in the access cover (that I had to make as mine had no access) and installed a lamp cord bushing, then I sleeved the sensor in some high temp cloth wire insulation.
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Old 08-14-2022, 09:39 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by bigb56 View Post
Good troubleshooting on your part. When I installed mine I drilled a hole in the access cover (that I had to make as mine had no access) and installed a lamp cord bushing, then I sleeved the sensor in some high temp cloth wire insulation.
Nicely done!
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Old 08-15-2022, 07:07 AM   #34
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Thanks humpndunk that’s what I found skinned wires near the sensor on the sensor wires. Repaired them no more boiler overheating. But this fridge will still not get below 50 when ambient temperatures are in the triple digits.
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Old 08-15-2022, 05:26 PM   #35
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Can't help you with the fridge not cooling, but I'm glad you got the Fridge Defend issue resolved.
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Old 08-15-2022, 06:47 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Thanks humpndunk that’s what I found skinned wires near the sensor on the sensor wires. Repaired them no more boiler overheating. But this fridge will still not get below 50 when ambient temperatures are in the triple digits.
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Does fridge not get below 50*F on gas, on electric or both?

What temp is freezer?

Have you checked the food compartment drip tray drain tube?
Broken/cracked or bug plug missing warm air can be drawn in making food compartment warmup

Door seals......have you checked them?

Ventilation, draft ad/or inadequate heat generates insufficient quantity of ammonia vapor needed to absorb heat from Both freezer & food compartment
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Old 08-15-2022, 10:45 PM   #37
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Did you install the fans when you put the arp in?
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Old 08-16-2022, 07:35 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Persistent View Post
I skimmed the owner's manual. Nothing indicates the system is intended to operate differently between gas and electric, but the question remains.
Does it overheat on both gas and electric?
Does it overheat when parked and when driving?
What are the ambient conditions when it overheats?
Does the refer display have blinking number or letter fault code.
Does it behave differently with different mode settings? Manual gas, manual elec, auto gas, auto elec?

Possible:
Frige is defective
Electric element is not working corretly
Gas burner is not working correctly
Obstruction in cooling system

ARP is defective or miss set.

Did you ever run it for a while off level?
Did you ever run it in freezing weather?
You might add for moving the sensor up a bit on the tube and if it's really getting that hot, it will trip anyway, so no worries. I believe I did that once with our old gasser and considering that the AARP is set for about 350F and whereas the OEM is somewhere between 400 - 600F.
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Old 08-17-2022, 07:46 AM   #39
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It won’t get below 50 when ambient temp is in triple digits, does same on electric, but is better on gas, always keep it level, world great if below 90 ambient
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Old 08-17-2022, 10:42 AM   #40
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Quote:
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It won’t get below 50 when ambient temp is in triple digits, does same on electric, but is better on gas, always keep it level, world great if below 90 ambient
Questions/Clarifications:

50*F.....that is temp in food compartment Correct?

Freezer temps?

Better on Gas vs Electric....how much better?

Works great if below 90*F Ambient air temp.......that suggests Draft/Airflow, Dead air space, warm air being drawn into food compartment (drain line/door seals etc), inadequate heat transfer (overheating due to lack of coolant flow) AND/OR Combination of above.
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Old 08-17-2022, 04:11 PM   #41
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It won’t get below 50 when ambient temp is in triple digits, does same on electric, but is better on gas, always keep it level, world great if below 90 ambient
If you're parked for a while, try taking the cover off behind the fridge and for putting a big fan in front of it.
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