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Old 05-18-2015, 05:34 PM   #43
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I've been on the phone this afternoon with David Force (RV Cooling Unit Warehouse), discussing the fan situation.

David doesn't think it would be a problem if the fans in the top vent quit. He says that even though the fans are not running, enough air should go through around the blades. He did say it would be good to have a fan at the bottom also, since the more air circulation around the pipes the better! He cautioned me that the fan at the bottom should not be blowing on the heater "stack", so that kinda rules out a fan mounted to the access door.

I found a high CFM fan that I can mount with brackets right under the pipes and blow straight up, totally missing the heater stack! Actually I found two. Both are rated at an incredible 107 CFM. One is a high-quality industrial model rated at 150,000 hours MTBF, fully waterproof, with a 6-year warranty! The cost from Amazon is $27.05. This is it below:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

The other one has the same CFM rating, but is not industrial-grade. Amazon is out of it right now and it would have to come from CoolerGuys. It is rated at 50,000 MTBF and is not waterproof. It's only $10.95, but that's plus shipping. This is it:
Coolerguys 120mm dual ball bearing high speed fan 3 pin fan #CG12025H12B2-3Y

I will connect the bottom fan to be controlled by the thermal switch that controls the top fans. I'll post a pic when I get it installed.

Hope this helps!
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Old 06-16-2015, 11:45 AM   #44
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I got the additional fan installed at the bottom to force more air up around the pipes. I connected it to come on with the 3-fan panel installed in the top vent. I used the industrial version below, rated at 150,000 hours MTBF! I felt it was worth the few bucks extra for that kind of life expectancy!
Robot Check

It was easy to install. I used a small wood spacer to put it in the right place between the pipes, and screwed it to the top of the opening. Below is a pic of the installation!

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Old 06-16-2015, 11:50 AM   #45
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Fantastic Fans says that pulling air out is better than pushing it in and I'm sure they know a bunch more about air flow than even David does.
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Old 06-16-2015, 11:54 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers View Post
I got the additional fan installed at the bottom to force more air up around the pipes. I connected it to come on with the 3-fan panel installed in the top vent. I used the industrial version below, rated at 150,000 hours MTBF! I felt it was worth the few bucks extra for that kind of life expectancy!
Robot Check

It was easy to install. I used a small wood spacer to put it in the right place between the pipes, and screwed it to the top of the opening. Below is a pic of the installation!

Joe, Thanks for the picture. Is that an Amish Cooling Unit I see? If so, can you tell a difference in performance?

Don
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Old 06-16-2015, 12:23 PM   #47
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Mr D., Agree an exhaust fan at the top is better....
but 'pushing' from the bottom will help, especially if all outlets are sealed except the one to the outside

my previous 5er didn't lend itself to top mounting either,
so got an internal fan for the fins and a pc cabinet fan assembly with four fans across it to push all up..
Did block around the edges so no air could 'back track', otherwise it would just loop !

don't want it blowing air into and around the fridge to the inside of the coach


My next rv's were fixed by getting residential fridges
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Old 06-16-2015, 12:42 PM   #48
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Sure glad I ran across this- I sent Joe a PM - no response probably something on my end.
I have the 3 fans ready and I'm installing them on a sheet of Carbon Fiber I had laying around and going to make a template so it fits in the top opening, as of the last post I too will install the pusher on the coils.Does anyone have numbers related to the outcome of installing all these fans ?
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Old 06-16-2015, 12:53 PM   #49
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I'm always interested in ways to make a fridge work better, as we've had some challenges over the years. I now use a temporary fan with 6 inch blades to force a lot of air from the bottom, which helps the top-mounted fans so well that my ice cream stays like a brick in hot weather. At normal temps the top-mounted muffins are adequate. Thanks for the pix, I may eventually hard-mount mine.
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Old 06-16-2015, 01:12 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelheadbluesman View Post
I'm always interested in ways to make a fridge work better, as we've had some challenges over the years. I now use a temporary fan with 6 inch blades to force a lot of air from the bottom, which helps the top-mounted fans so well that my ice cream stays like a brick in hot weather. At normal temps the top-mounted muffins are adequate. Thanks for the pix, I may eventually hard-mount mine.

Just be careful that the fan doesn't blow on the heater stack!
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Old 06-16-2015, 01:13 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by NHRA225 View Post
Sure glad I ran across this- I sent Joe a PM - no response probably something on my end.
I have the 3 fans ready and I'm installing them on a sheet of Carbon Fiber I had laying around and going to make a template so it fits in the top opening, as of the last post I too will install the pusher on the coils.Does anyone have numbers related to the outcome of installing all these fans ?

Chuck, I didn't get your PM. Sorry 'bout that! Let me know if there's anything I can help you with!

Joe
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Old 06-16-2015, 01:16 PM   #52
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Joe, Thanks for the picture. Is that an Amish Cooling Unit I see? If so, can you tell a difference in performance?

Don

Don, it's working great now! The temps in the fridge run from 35 to 38 degrees with the temperature control set to "3" ! It didn't do that at first, until I got the fan situation solved!
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Old 06-16-2015, 01:18 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
Fantastic Fans says that pulling air out is better than pushing it in and I'm sure they know a bunch more about air flow than even David does.

Fantastic Fans make great exhaust fans for the inside of RV's, but I didn't know they were into fridges!
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Old 06-16-2015, 01:33 PM   #54
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Fridge vent fans

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Originally Posted by 1ciderdog View Post
The Samsung is the same width but taller. I had to lower the original floor under the refrigerator about four inches for the Samsung. I had a radio speaker, a propane alert sensor/monitor and a 12 volt control panel under the refrigerator floor. The only part that was a space issue was the speaker as it was about 6 inches tall. I have left that speaker undone and on the next trip will see if we miss that speaker sound. I don't remember reading anywhere that the rear of the Samsung is about an inch lower than the front of the Samsung. The front top of the Samsung has hinges that are higher than the back which might make a difference with an angled roof.

If your rig is set up like mine, that's an unpowered sub-woofer. You might miss it!
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Old 06-18-2015, 03:56 PM   #55
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Fan Install Report

Completed the 3 fan install and here are the numbers.
Outside temps- Upper 80's with High Humididty
Tues Just after install -- Freezer -12 deg
Fridge----38deg
Wed-24 hours later Freezer -5 deg
Fridge ---29 deg
Wed- 7pm turned down the T-Sat 1/4 turn
Freezer -8 deg
Fridge----32deg
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Old 06-18-2015, 05:19 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by NHRA225 View Post
Completed the 3 fan install and here are the numbers.
Outside temps- Upper 80's with High Humididty
Tues Just after install -- Freezer -12 deg
Fridge----38deg
Wed-24 hours later Freezer -5 deg
Fridge ---29 deg
Wed- 7pm turned down the T-Sat 1/4 turn
Freezer -8 deg
Fridge----32deg

Congrats Chuck!
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