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Old 01-10-2014, 04:33 AM   #1
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Furnace & Thermostat Issues

Prior to getting some extreme cold weather I started to run the furnace to get heat to the wetbay while preparing the MH at home for a trip. At first it was working OK. Then I decided to check on it one morning when the temps was down to 17. The furnace was not running. Luckily I had drop lights in the wetbay also. After some thermostat work (turning on and off) it finally fired up again. I had propane and it was not frozen (checked stove & water heater). Then it would turn off again.

While working with the thermostat it would keep resetting itself and "00" would popup on the screen. The temperature setting would then reset to 72 (I had it set for 50). The furnace also would try to light over and over until it would finally fire up. During out first night the furnace quit working again. This time the temps outside was only 28. After some time I got it back working again.

Being we was heading to the Tiffin repair facility (CRB) I was going to get them to look at it. Of course when they checked it the furnace worked great, but they decided to change out the thermostat just in case. It ran fine for several hours. The temps outside was in the low 40's, so I did not use it much.

When we went to bed last night I set it for 60 degrees. It came on a few times during the night, but at 3 this morning I woke up hot. The thermostat has reset itself to 72 and it was 68 degrees. I reset the thermostat to 60 and it turned off.

Before I thought it was a furnace issue but I am now thinking that it may be a short in the wiring somewhere making it short out and reset. Whenever the fuse or power is lost it resets to 72.

Any suggestions or ideas is appreciated.
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Old 01-10-2014, 04:45 AM   #2
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Here is a link to an issue similar. It has to do with the need for a choke filter. Apparently there are factors ( mainly fluorescent lighting ) that can cause havoc with these thermostats.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/rvcom...es-126229.html
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:10 AM   #3
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Who sells that filter: Coleman?? Google only showed an old Ebay listing.
Thanks
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:19 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clifftall View Post
Here is a link to an issue similar. It has to do with the need for a choke filter. Apparently there are factors ( mainly fluorescent lighting ) that can cause havoc with these thermostats.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/rvcom...es-126229.html
Thanks for the quick reply. There was no lights on last night and I do not not have any fluorescent lights. Most of them are LED.

Here is another thought. I have two A/C units and no heat pumps. I only have one furnace and it is run by the front thermostat. This thermostat has gas and electric settings on it.

Could it be wired for a heat pump even though there is no heat pump?
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:26 AM   #5
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It could be from the 12v in the furnace or the led's. Personally , I would invest in that choke filter. I believe I placed a link in that thread in where to get one.
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:29 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moisheh View Post
Who sells that filter: Coleman?? Google only showed an old Ebay listing. Thanks
Sorry. I don't know. RV Products is the Coleman Dist. (316) 832-4357.
Maybe they can point you to one.
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:57 AM   #7
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Coleman Thermostat Electronic Noise Filter, AK3102
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Old 01-10-2014, 06:00 AM   #8
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Thanks Bruce. Team work .
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Old 01-10-2014, 06:35 AM   #9
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Here is another wrinkle in this problem. Due to the cold weather the CG water is turned off so I am using my fresh water tank and pump. When the pump kicks on the lights flicker.

Could this entire problem be tied into the 12v system. Also should the inverter be on or off? From what I understand only the entertainment system on my coach will run off of the inverter. But does it have anything to do with the 12v system? I keep checking my house batteries and they are at 13.47.
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Old 01-14-2014, 06:27 AM   #10
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Looks like you never got an answer. I would check your battery connections especially the ground. You will also need to check the wires coming out of the power supply that provides the 12 volts to the fuse panel. If you have a loose connection you can have 12 volts on a meter but as soon as you start to draw current like when the heater fan turns on you can get a large voltage drop. Probably enough to reset your thermostat.
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Old 01-14-2014, 06:40 AM   #11
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We are scheduled to be worked on today at Tiffin's Service Center. It has run fine for the last three nights. I now have the inverter turned on, so maybe this has something to do with it.

I do have a 12v issue being the lights flicker a lot when I use the water pump and the pump pulsates to match the light flickers. They must all be tied into each other. By talking to some fellow campers it will most likely be a loose ground somewhere.
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Old 01-16-2014, 10:05 AM   #12
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I just ordered a thermostat replacement for my 2000 Winnebago Adventurer from Winnebago. My old thermostat is an analog Coleman Mack and they are sending me a digital with a choke filter. Anyone have experience at replacing thermostats?
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Old 01-16-2014, 01:55 PM   #13
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No, Sorry I don't but I just found out our thermostat was not level (Mercury) so I re-leveled it and seems to keep more of a actuate temp in the coach.
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:07 AM   #14
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Update:

After running great for three nights it quit working when the temps dropped to the low 20's. I was up around midnight hooking up drop lights in the wetbay. After checking the cooktop and finding the propane was not working there either I put a drop light at the propane valve and regulator. After about 20 minutes or so I got the furnace to work again. After running for a long time I had the haze and smell in the coach again.

The next day I was put into a bay to be worked on again. After checking several things they decided to change out the regulator being some has been going bad. They also believed the haze was due to our furnace not being through a complete burnoff. So they turned the T-stat up to 80 and let it rip while they worked on my other issues.

I don't know if the regulator solved the propane supply issue or not. The next night it only got to 30 and I had no issue. We are leaving today and right now it is 20 degrees outside. Just to be on the safe side I put my drop light at the propane valve and regulator and everything worked OK. If by chance it was water in the propane I figured it would all come out eventually. Taking trips when it is cold is not something we plan on doing.

They adjusted the pressure on the pump and that solved the pump and light flickering issue. It was great to take a shower with consistent pressure and temperature.
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