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Old 11-17-2012, 03:10 PM   #1
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Fusebox Help

Got a 88 Fleetwood Bounder an wantin to see if I could get any help about the fusebox on the 12 volt side of it, It has a coil in it an I think it mite be bad an keeping the converter from charging my batt's, Was wondering if there is anyway of testing it to make sure it is bad, I going to try an put a pic on here, I call it a coil cause I see the name on the front of it, It seems to have points on it also,, Never seen nothing like it before,,Click image for larger version

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Old 11-17-2012, 03:12 PM   #2
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The panel cover has the name Progressive Dynamice,Inc
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Old 11-17-2012, 04:51 PM   #3
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if you're talking about the blue device in the picture. it looks like a relay. voltage(low amperage) input to switch voltage between the points. there's a parts number on the side, run the manufacture with the parts # and get the wiring dia. that will tell you for sure. if you were close we could do a voltage test, it's not that hard
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:31 PM   #4
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That is indeed a SPDT relay, I was not aware PDI used those in their converters.. However how old is this box and what is the model number of the converter?

You can do this.. Step 1: Unplug, Then lift the negative lead off your house batteries (Remove all 12 volt power) now slip a nail file between the movable arm and the upper contact and "Sand it down" a bit, say 20 strokes of about 1 inch. Then move the nail file to between the bottom contact and the movable arm and pressing lightly on the arm sand again.. Then dust it off (Blow it clean) restore power and see if you have improved it.

Relay cleaning 101.
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Old 11-17-2012, 08:19 PM   #5
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That is indeed a SPDT relay, I was not aware PDI used those in their converters.. However how old is this box and what is the model number of the converter?

You can do this.. Step 1: Unplug, Then lift the negative lead off your house batteries (Remove all 12 volt power) now slip a nail file between the movable arm and the upper contact and "Sand it down" a bit, say 20 strokes of about 1 inch. Then move the nail file to between the bottom contact and the movable arm and pressing lightly on the arm sand again.. Then dust it off (Blow it clean) restore power and see if you have improved it.

Relay cleaning 101.
Model # is PD768006Rl TCAB an Serial # is CF3449 ,, I called the blue part a coil cause thats what it says on it,,lol,, Its in my 1988 Fleetwood Bounder so I think thats how old it is,, Don't know if its been replaced or not,,
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Old 11-17-2012, 08:20 PM   #6
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Also I will got out in mornin an try the nail file an see what happens,, Sure hope it helps,,lol
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Old 11-17-2012, 08:43 PM   #7
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The panel cover has the name Progressive Dynamice,Inc

If it is a Progressive...Here is a link to there discontinued products...considerning it's age. I didn't see the part number you listed, but there might be something that might help. Doesn't hurt to give them a call.
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Old 11-18-2012, 10:52 AM   #8
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That is indeed a SPDT relay, I was not aware PDI used those in their converters.. However how old is this box and what is the model number of the converter?

You can do this.. Step 1: Unplug, Then lift the negative lead off your house batteries (Remove all 12 volt power) now slip a nail file between the movable arm and the upper contact and "Sand it down" a bit, say 20 strokes of about 1 inch. Then move the nail file to between the bottom contact and the movable arm and pressing lightly on the arm sand again.. Then dust it off (Blow it clean) restore power and see if you have improved it.

Relay cleaning 101.
Just came in from my MH,,,,, I did unhook elc. plug an unhook the batt's,,, I filed down the point's an then I pluged the elc. plug back up, Then went up front to the batt's cables,, Put my tester on cables an now I have 13.0V comeing thru,, Wasn't getting nothing before,, So I unplg the elc. plug again then hook up the batt's,, (Batt's was tested an was showing 12.5V) So I pluged up the elc. again then tested the batt's cables an now It is on 13.0V,,,, Was hopeing to get the 13.5V but maybe I can't cause the stuff is old,, Thanks,,,,, What do ya think of only getting the 13.0V an not 13.5V ??
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:11 AM   #9
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Hey Hey Hey,,,, I a happy puppy here now,, I just went back out an test one more time an put my tester back on the batt cables an I am now getting 13.5V like it's pos too,,, I guess I read it wrong the fist time cause the sun is at the front of MH an I miss read the lights on my tester,,,, Wow,, Thanks for the help,,,,,,
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Old 11-18-2012, 12:25 PM   #10
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Hey Hey Hey,,,, I a happy puppy here now,, I just went back out an test one more time an put my tester back on the batt cables an I am now getting 13.5V like it's pos too,,, I guess I read it wrong the fist time cause the sun is at the front of MH an I miss read the lights on my tester,,,, Wow,, Thanks for the help,,,,,,

It is not recommended to file relay contacts. Quite often they are heavily plated with a very low resistance metal (silver or gold). Filing removes this metal. I (and others) recommend using rough paper.

Put a piece of shopping bag paper between the contacts and push the relay arm down. Than rub the paper back and forth to abraid the surface. 'Scrub' the contacts 2-3 times should be adequate and will not remove too much of the low-R plating.
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Old 11-18-2012, 03:45 PM   #11
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I just wondering if this could have been a prob from when I had the elc. pluged up then a couple hours later my wife started up the gen while the elc. was still pluged up,,, I don't know if it is ok to to that or not,,,,
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:10 PM   #12
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Russ,
That relay switches the jukebox feed (load) from the converter to battery banks when you lose 110v power.

Starting the genny while plugged in to shore power is a good way to blow out the auto transfer switch.....I ALWAYS UNPLUG SHORELINE before firing genset......better to be safe than waste a $275 part, plus about $150 labor minimum......
Just saying.
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:12 PM   #13
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Jukebox?????? Dang interpretive keypad.......meant fuse box....
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Old 11-22-2012, 05:53 AM   #14
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When cleaning the contacts again run a dollar bill through the contacts its allot cheaper than a replacement and saves contact points.
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