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Old 10-13-2020, 02:47 PM   #1
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Heated outside storage and fresh water tank area

We recently purchased a used MH from a private party. It has flexible ductwork in 3 of the outside storage bins and one in the fresh water bin/area. We do not plan on camping when the weather would get below freezing so why heat them.

Question: If I cap the ends of the ductwork in the bins, would it force more heated air into the main areas of the MH? That would be nice and/or more efficient for spring/fall camping.

Do they make a cap for flexible ductwork?

Thoughts.....

Thanks
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Old 10-13-2020, 03:07 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beeper View Post
We recently purchased a used MH from a private party. It has flexible ductwork in 3 of the outside storage bins and one in the fresh water bin/area. We do not plan on camping when the weather would get below freezing so why heat them.

Question: If I cap the ends of the ductwork in the bins, would it force more heated air into the main areas of the MH? That would be nice and/or more efficient for spring/fall camping. Makes sense to me. It would be like closing a register.

Do they make a cap for flexible ductwork? I don't know of a cap but a bag placed over the end and taped in place should work.

Thoughts.....

Thanks

Good Luck!!
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Old 10-13-2020, 04:10 PM   #3
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ByeTheWay

I'm thinking the bag might melt? One of the ductwork runs is only about 4 feet off the main run from the furnace.

I was thinking maybe I'd just pinch the ends shut and staple and tape them with foil tape.

This will be a Spring job since it getting cold here in WI.
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Old 10-13-2020, 05:15 PM   #4
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My concern would be a bit different. Possible restricting air flow too much and shortening the life of the furnace. If those compartments are fairly air tight than the difference in air flow would be insignificant, but so would the difference in heat up time. Is there a way you could maybe remove one or both and then run new ducting somewhere else within the RV?

I only have one such duct and it empties out under the refrigerator/sink cabinets, so it's not really a loss of heat inside the unit.
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Old 10-14-2020, 10:16 AM   #5
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Goodspike...that is a concern. I think the next time I go by the RV dealership I'll stop in and see what they have to say.

Thanks
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Old 10-14-2020, 10:41 AM   #6
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If you don't have a manual for your furnace , please find one and read through it .
RV furnaces use a sail switch , to prove to the control board there is good blower operation and air flow through the furnace heat exchanger, before the control board lights the burner .
Closing off furnace outlets can cause back pressure in the system , effecting operation of the sail switch , and the furnace might never light.
Unlike a house system where heat registers can be shut down , and the 120 volt blower motor will just force air flow to open registers , the 12 volt set up in an RV doesn't have the power to overcome a restriction , that's why RV heat registers don't close.
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Old 10-14-2020, 10:45 AM   #7
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Unlike a house system where heat registers can be shut down , and the 120 volt blower motor will just force air flow to open registers , the 12 volt set up in an RV doesn't have the power to overcome a restriction , that's why RV heat registers don't close.
As I mentioned, shutting down too many vents in a house system can damage the furnace. Maybe this sail system is also designed to prevent that type of damage (and/or perhaps a fire in the case of an RV furnace).
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Old 10-14-2020, 10:55 AM   #8
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As I mentioned, shutting down too many vents in a house system can damage the furnace. Maybe this sail system is also designed to prevent that type of damage (and/or perhaps a fire in the case of an RV furnace).
Hopefully all the RV furnace safety features are operational , in order to prevent any fires . The control board logic for burner ignition/ operation , runs through the sail switch AND a heat exchange chamber temp sensor .
Poor air flow the burner won't light , overheated heat exchange chamber , the burner is shut off .
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Old 10-14-2020, 10:59 AM   #9
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Hopefully all the RV furnace safety features are operational , in order to prevent any fires . The control board logic for burner ignition/ operation , runs through the sail switch AND a heat exchange chamber temp sensor .
Poor air flow the burner won't light , overheated heat exchange chamber , the burner is shut off .
I was suggesting the sail switch may be such a safety feature.

But more specifically what I was thinking, an RV furnace tends to be in a smaller tighter enclosure than a house furnace, which is also likely surrounded by either concrete or drywall (attic installations the exception). You don't really need to worry about the heat from a home furnace catching a neighboring surface on fire. I'm thinking of more the type of fire risk that a cast iron wood stove presents for close surfaces.
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Old 10-14-2020, 12:53 PM   #10
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If I wanted to restrict airflow to those three hoses I would put one of these or something similar on the end of each. You can configure/adjust it to whatever you need...all open, all closed, one open, two closed, all three half open...you get the picture. You could even fab up a bracket out of sheet metal and screw it to the ceiling, wall or floor if so inclined.
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Old 10-15-2020, 04:24 PM   #11
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JaminSamin....Thanks for the great idea.

Skip426...We have a 2004 Thor Four Winds 31P. It didn't come with a furnace manual but I'll see if I can goggle one. Thanks for the safety concern.
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Old 10-15-2020, 10:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
If you don't have a manual for your furnace , please find one and read through it .
RV furnaces use a sail switch , to prove to the control board there is good blower operation and air flow through the furnace heat exchanger, before the control board lights the burner .
Closing off furnace outlets can cause back pressure in the system , effecting operation of the sail switch , and the furnace might never light.
Unlike a house system where heat registers can be shut down , and the 120 volt blower motor will just force air flow to open registers , the 12 volt set up in an RV doesn't have the power to overcome a restriction , that's why RV heat registers don't close.
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