Community Forums

mannebk · 03-11-2024, 01:31 PM

After some more fiddling I found:

While in zone 2, no furnace control
While in zone 1, yes furnace control

My fan button wasn't working, so I couldn't switch between the modes.

I took it apart, lost the spring, found it again, couldn't find anything wrong, put it back together, no change.

Took it apart again, did so with the mode button too.

Couldn't find anything wrong again

Switched fan and moode button, all 4 parts of em.

Now both just work fine.

WTF

So old-biscuit, what's the best way of getting some oil into the motor bearing?

I don't think it's worn out. I think it was just not used for a decade and dust did dry it out and some oxidizing happened. So before I hone the brass bearings with the rough shaft, I prefer to put some oil into it and see if it recovers.

And btw, I have now clue what that old thermostat does, for sure it does not control my ceiling fans

mannebk · 03-11-2024, 03:20 PM

Also, as I suspected the squeaking was taken care of with some pb blaster and WD40

See pictures

I went in through the hole on the burner side and went behind the wheel and just blasted the shaft.

Then I went over the engine with WD40 and the WD40 goose neck style sprayer and hosed it down from the top sided, the whole motor. WOT style...

Then started the heater, squeaking was almost gone.

Rinse and repeat and the blower motor is swimming in a mix of oils and totally silent.

I don't recommend that, disassemble and oil it properly, I will do that, but I need it working rright now.

Old-Biscuit · 03-11-2024, 05:56 PM

that is the combustion squirrel cage area/motor shaft---bushing

Motor is dual shaft
One side air room...one side combustion

WD is NOT a lubricant....... 3 in 1 oil is a lubricant and good on 1/2hp or less motor bushing

mannebk · 03-13-2024, 05:18 AM

Yep, you are totally right, WD40 is about the worst for long term lubrication...

I actually us WD40 almost exclusively for locks, that's where it excels. The graphite will lubricate but it's dry and does not draw dirt.... The solvent will wash away any oil and dirt.

As I said, my method is not a good solution, but it works for me more right now, since we still are at 4000 ft of altitude or so and do see temps in the upper 20 each night and I've got a 4 years old with me and am not to enthusiastic about freezing half the night myself.

Heater works like a charm. And the blower motor does not squeak any more.

However I feel the combustion does sound a bit funny. From the units I know from Europe this would be considered an unusual combustion sound. But then I have never ever heard a Atwood burner, so it might be totally normal.

Old-Biscuit · 03-14-2024, 11:43 AM

Furnace should have a strong steady slight roar

mannebk · 03-14-2024, 11:45 AM

It's more like a explosion at a time, not like a rocket, more interrupted... I'll try to get a sound file

Old-Biscuit · 03-14-2024, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mannebk

It's more like a explosion at a time, not like a rocket, more interrupted... I'll try to get a sound file

Intake/exhaust need cleaning
Burner and orifice need cleaning
*remove burner assembly----wire brush (If screen area show distortion or larger holes than the rest of the screen burner needs to be replaced)
*orifice-----soak in alcohol/air dry (no poking or high air pressure it will damage the metered opening)

mannebk · 03-14-2024, 09:50 PM

Awesome thank you... Will do.

I do have a hot water heater that works awesome, but seams to hold some kind of pressure, pump off hot water still comes, cold does not.

It also drips out the overpressure valve... Any recommendations?

mannebk · 03-14-2024, 10:55 PM

I just discovered that there is a real easy way to access the blower side bearing....

See picture, take these 4 screws out and the blower bearing is directly accessible...

So it started squeaking again, as old biscuit said, WD40 is no oil... And of course he was right...

So I took it apart in the dark, after half s night with no heating... of course it was the next night, so I had my phone in the mouth with led on. That was kind of a real PITB.

Better next time listen to experienced folks right away...

Old-Biscuit · 03-14-2024, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mannebk

Awesome thank you... Will do.

I do have a hot water heater that works awesome, but seams to hold some kind of pressure, pump off hot water still comes, cold does not.

It also drips out the overpressure valve... Any recommendations?

1997 Vintage
Replace the T&P Relief Valve
*Any Big Box store....same T&P used on residential water heaters
(Take old one with so you get same size threads and temp probe)

Weeping is caused by loss of air pocket in top of water heater tank
Water swells when heated....air pocket helps control the increase in pressure. Water can not be compressed so without air pocket pressure can increase high enough to cause T&P to drip

And will allow some hot water flow w/o pump on

Air Pocket

mannebk · 12-30-2024, 09:16 AM

@Old-Biscuit

sorry to bug you, but do you happen to have a recommendation for a source for the blower motor?

I plan to return in January to my RV and get it ready for our next big trip. So I need to get at least the heater permanently fixed, or Im going to be freeeeeeezing in there.

I therefore would like to order at least the blower motor, so when I make it to the RV after 2 days of traveling from Germany, I at least can have the heater up and running inside an hour....

All the oil I put on the shaft did not fix the blower motor making funny noises

Just as you predicted.... should have gone with your recommendation right away.

regarding my hot water maker, i discoverd during the trip a very small leak into my RV when its pressurized. I suspect a micro crack, as all the hoses are dry, it comes out from the insulation.

I think i might caused it my self, as we where traveling in sub freezing conditions and I did not switch the tank heater on...

if I have to replace it, I would love to integrate an engine water heat exchanger, so I dont need to worry while driving.

Ideas? probably best will be to get a new one?

Thank you kindly and have a nice new years eve.

Cheers Manny

Old-Biscuit · 12-30-2024, 06:10 PM

Blower Motor Kit

https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...or-kit-37357mc

Water Heater.............unfortunately it being an OLD atwood model it is not going to be an easy replacement. No Atwood models available----Dometic stopped support and redesigned their own models which do not fit in the opening Atwoods are installed in (Taller and Narrower)

BUT if it is a pinhole or even a Crack it can be welded up
Requires disconnecting and removing from RV then getting it to a welder that can do aluminum -----tank is aluminum

What is the Model of your Atwood Water Heater?

mannebk · 02-21-2025, 11:30 AM

installed new blower motor, works like a cham.

heater worked good for an hour.

now i have it constantly relighting the heater and not putting out much heat, even the exhaust is barely hand warm.

i did make sure we have plenty gas, the stove works fine...

so i guess the orifice is blocked?

i think I did read that one should only use air and acetone to clean it?

mannebk · 02-22-2025, 01:32 PM

so i mused its thr orifice, well turned out it was not....

orifice looks awesome clean

burner mesh like new

i measured the coils they are both around 42, both are equal.

removed the mud daubers nest, was an old one. so i dont think it had anything to do with the problems I just recently encountered.

checked gas flow from the pipe, works well, its from the same pipe as tls the stove and that's working just like it should. same for the fridge even with stove 3 burners on full.

so, any ideas i haven't jet though of?