Help to troubleshoot intermittent furnace issue

[12rvrepair]

Originally Posted by Desdinova

THAT is a good question. I was sure I tested that and initially posted that it stays at 12v, but just hooked everything up, and it ONLY stays at 12V for a few seconds each time the ignitor engages.

What should give it the signal that ignition has occured and it should continue to keep the valve open?

Flame has current in it. As long as everything is lined up and clean in the burner the current goes back through the wire through the sparkler into the power board. It tells the relay to close and then hold the LP valve open. No voltage bad relay most likely. As long as everything is clean and burner has no holes in it. Replace the board

[Desdinova]

Originally Posted by 12rvrepair

Flame has current in it. As long as everything is lined up and clean in the burner the current goes back through the wire through the sparkler into the power board. It tells the relay to close and then hold the LP valve open. No voltage bad relay most likely. As long as everything is clean and burner has no holes in it. Replace the board

Board ordered

[Desdinova]

Replaced the board and valve. Re-installed in rig and it's a MUCH smoother operation. Previously, it would sometimes take one or two cycles of the ignitor to fire up. This time, it fired off the first ignition. Both the board and the valve seem much better quality, better components than the original parts they replaced.

Now, unfortunately, I find that my connection to one of the LP tanks from the regulator is leaking. It's always something I guess, but that's an easy replace and the current one I'm pretty sure is the original, so it's time.

[ronhallam]

Check your sail switch.

[jduffey5]

Originally Posted by 12rvrepair

Classic case where you should have called someone that knows what they are doing. You've spent all that money and it is still not fixed. It is ether a $40 dollar t/stat or a relay in the AC $89. easy to find. You start at A testing not at Z.

We did take to someone who knows what they're doing. In fact 2 different ones! Both RV places were Atwood/Dometic approved service centers that I found by calling Atwood.

Now after spending over $1000 with people who know what they're doing I'm trying to figure it out myself.

[APhotoWizard]

Originally Posted by Desdinova

Replaced the board and valve. Re-installed in rig and it's a MUCH smoother operation. Previously, it would sometimes take one or two cycles of the ignitor to fire up. This time, it fired off the first ignition. Both the board and the valve seem much better quality, better components than the original parts they replaced.

Now, unfortunately, I find that my connection to one of the LP tanks from the regulator is leaking. It's always something I guess, but that's an easy replace and the current one I'm pretty sure is the original, so it's time.

Glad to see you found the problem. Sad that the experts could not fix the problem. I had the same experience. 5 times in the shop, no success, until I finally did it myself.

[12rvrepair]

Originally Posted by APhotoWizard

Glad to see you found the problem. Sad that the experts could not fix the problem. I had the same experience. 5 times in the shop, no success, until I finally did it myself.

An expert did fix it