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jerichorick · 01-21-2021, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers

I bought a can of the Seafoam Deep Creep penetrating oil this afternoon and sprayed it good. I'll check it again in the morning and continue to spray it a few times.

Before you try to loosen the rod, after spraying things down, try tightening it to stress the threads. Don't over do it. The hammer drill motor is the best bet because of the fracturing action on the corrosion. I hope you are successful.

I hope the rod comes out. I had one break off. Never did get that heater to drain.

As we speak, I am preparing to replace my water heater. The inlet fitting sprung a gushing leak. I found a water heater at RVPARTSCOUNTRY.COM. They are a challenge to work with but the price was right and the heater was in stock. I have ordered a Atwood Mixing Valve kit from Amazon warehouse. I hope all the parts are with it for the price.

Happy trails.
Rick Y

MSHappyCampers · 01-21-2021, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerichorick

Before you try to loosen the rod, after spraying things down, try tightening it to stress the threads. Don't over do it. The hammer drill motor is the best bet because of the fracturing action on the corrosion. I hope you are successful.

I hope the rod comes out. I had one break off. Never did get that heater to drain.

As we speak, I am preparing to replace my water heater. The inlet fitting sprung a gushing leak. I found a water heater at RVPARTSCOUNTRY.COM. They are a challenge to work with but the price was right and the heater was in stock. I have ordered a Atwood Mixing Valve kit from Amazon warehouse. I hope all the parts are with it for the price.

Happy trails.
Rick Y

See post #54

MSHappyCampers · 01-21-2021, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnynorthla

After spraying it with a penetrating oil. Bring the hot water heater up to full temperature with a full tank of water. Just make sure you crack the relief valve to get the pressure off. The heat might help you out it will expand the metal.

See post #54

MDFiver · 01-21-2021, 04:19 PM

Atwood water heaters don’t require an anode rod. Are you sure it’s an Atwood and not a Suburban?

MSHappyCampers · 01-21-2021, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MDFiver

Atwood water heaters don’t require an anode rod. Are you sure it’s an Atwood and not a Suburban?

See post #39

Jchemie · 01-21-2021, 05:32 PM

Good point, GPCPL. I’ve been using Kroil to loosen the toughest nut since I started as a journeyman machinist in 1978. Great stuff, never failed me. I would suggest warming it up a tad, say to 125 degrees (touchable, but can’t hold on to it for more than 5 seconds) to get the Kroil to creep in deeper and faster. Apply again every 10minutes, in an hour try to twist it off using a 6 pt. only socket. And never use an impact of any sort on a glass lined water tank!!

GPCPL · 01-21-2021, 05:59 PM

OP got the rod out around post # 49, but thanks for the support on Kroil. The stuff is pretty impressive and has alot of uses.

PeterFTH · 01-21-2021, 06:30 PM

Harbor Freight - buy an air impact wrench for about $20. The socket for the element is $26 - the anode might be a common size..... you can't beat air because you just have to apply pressure to hold it on the nut, not to try and twist it at the same time.

Old-Biscuit · 01-21-2021, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeterFTH

Harbor Freight - buy an air impact wrench for about $20. The socket for the element is $26 - the anode might be a common size..... you can't beat air because you just have to apply pressure to hold it on the nut, not to try and twist it at the same time.

Post #30, #49 #54.....OP removed/replaced the anode rod

Krbjmpr · 01-21-2021, 11:42 PM

I was once tasked with pulling anode from an ancient 1950s-1960s era trailer. Bolen / Bower, whomever Atwood bought company from. I doubt if WH was true to form original.

Per owner. Trailer, some sort of Bonanza single narrow axle, had been at deer lease for 20 years but swears it hasn't had water put to it. See where this is going?

I tried heat, Deep Creep, PB Blaster, etc. Nothing would work. Owner *really* wanted to save the water heater.

What did finally work is applying counter torque, and freezing with CO2. From a fire extinguisher. I have never seen such black putrid water before. Billy Goats wouldnt go near this 'effluent'. But, got it all cleaned out and working. Then moved on to the rusted out galvanized water tank. Remember the ones that were pressurized by water source or air pump? Yup, one of those.

Then the Magic Chef *ICE* box was replaced with a magic chef reproduction absorption fridge. That was a chore. Coleman wall furnace was brought up to working condition...

Why such a long trip down memory lane? The tank on the water heater tank itself could have been changed and saved a dozen hours of working on it. Do you know what the difference was between that old WH and the tank on a new 6gal pilot model? Absolutely NOTHING!

Owner ended up selling that POS turned Castle trailer to a collector and made out like a bandit. New owner requested my name, which led to modernizing a bunch of systems ... Including a nice shiny new water heater with electric / DSI but it did hide behind old access door. Again, Atwood.

Dont get me started on propane system with copper pig tails, single stage regulator and an honest to God gas light complete with spare mantles that contained Thorium.

The lesson of the day is if you cant get anode loose in an hour, spend the ($150 now?) ans just replace the tank. Much easier, intact lining, and a nice worthless warranty.

THenne1713 · 01-22-2021, 12:10 AM

CALCIUM RESIDE has it locked down, tried 6-foot on old house water heater w/ no luck, but ELECTRIC IMPACT took it right out. After removal, suggest a thread TAP ($15-$20 amazon) to chase the threads and clean deposits, but NOTE that only screws in x3 threads normally (Pipe Thread is TAPERED)

txcpl · 01-22-2021, 05:25 AM

Be sure to flush the water heater very well prior to final installation of the anode rod. You may have some debris that contains penetrating oil on it in the tank. Try to get as much of that stuff out as possible.

It never amazes me how much crud comes out of the tank every year when I change the anode rod. I flush the tank well and watch that stuff pile up on the ground.

WVPete · 01-22-2021, 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers

Yesterday I decided to drain and flush out my water heater, which I have not done in years! Well, I can't break the nut loose on the anode rod! It has a lot of corrosion on the threads. I have sprayed it with liquid wrench several times, and tried rapping the socket handle with a hammer, but no luck yet.

Anybody have a magic trick to break it loose?

sWhen I did mine, I sprayed "PB Blaster" on it and waited. The next day I did it again. I sprayed and left it for about a week, then took a 6 point socket and long breaker bar and it came out with steady pressure.

Good Luck.

RandyJ3242 · 01-22-2021, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers

Yesterday I decided to drain and flush out my water heater, which I have not done in years! Well, I can't break the nut loose on the anode rod! It has a lot of corrosion on the threads. I have sprayed it with liquid wrench several times, and tried rapping the socket handle with a hammer, but no luck yet.

Anybody have a magic trick to break it loose?

I have had success by turning stuck nuts to "Tighten" them with a heavy duty air gun impact wrench then reversing the wrench and it just spins out. You can do it with a long breaker bar too if you don't have access to an air operated impact wrench or hammer drill.