Help with plumbing in Water Softener and ClearSource Ultra system

[Mighty_J]

Hey there.

I was inspired by Dutch Star Don. LOL.

Getting ready for one of my spring projects, which is doing an in-bay install of a ClearSource Ultra filtration system and an On The Go double size water softener. I’m going to use the bay in front of the Chinook hydronic system on the off door side.
No slide tray in that bay, so was going to add a drain pan on that side to mount the equipment on and box it in. Then was going to add a slide out tray on the door side.

Other option is to put it behind the Chinook system (there’s space between the Chinook and the slide out tray, but it would be a pain to get in there to change filters, regeneration, etc.

It’s the plumbing I’m trying to make sure I’ve got right. Trying to design it with three way ball valves and shut offs to ensure I can meet all the requirements of the system maintenance (plus sometimes if the water is already soft, no need to waste the softener - like when attached at home.)

I’ve attached a schematic of how I’m thinking of plumbing it, but I’m no master plumber! LOL. I’d love feedback on whether anyone thinks I should change or modify what I’m thinking of for a configuration.

Looking forward to people’s thoughts!

[Old-Biscuit]

Looks like you have operation/backwash/regen cycles covered......OK

What about pre-softener filtration issues?
*Bypassing filters should one become clogged/fowled and no replacement readily available

[Mighty_J]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Looks like you have operation/backwash/regen cycles covered......OK

What about pre-softener filtration issues?
*Bypassing filters should one become clogged/fowled and no replacement readily available

Thanks! Makes sense. So maybe add a bypass around the filtration. In a pinch I can carry an inline filter to use if there’s a clog problem.

[Mighty_J]

Well, the -25 degree temperatures are getting to me, so today I did all the plumbing to get the water filters and the water softener ready to go in the coach as soon as I can de-winterize (probably late April).

I had to adjust my plan to use three way T valves as they aren’t that readily available where I live and I needed certain patterns. Instead, I did it with straight shut offs and T’s. same result. I added the filtration by-pass as suggested as well.

I flipped the water softener around backward so I can get the water into the and out of the system on the same side (left). This lines up with where I’m planning on doing the install.

It all came together pretty well, except somewhere between the cash register at Lowes and my basement, one T went missing. Back to get another one tomorrow, then waiting for spring!

Here’s a pic of how it’s gonna look. Going to box it in with a drain pan and walls in the coach so it looks finished.

[Old-Biscuit]

How do you remove canisters for new filters?

[Mighty_J]

To change the canisters, I’ll put it on bypass, bleed the pressure out of the canisters with the bleeder valve then just spin them off with the filter wrench like normal. The cage is designed to have clearance to get the canisters out.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Mighty_J

To change the canisters, I’ll put it on bypass, bleed the pressure out of the canisters with the bleeder valve then just spin them off with the filter wrench like normal. The cage is designed to have clearance to get the canisters out.

Out the side, back, bottom ???

Or if center is clogged do you have to remove one of the others first??

How do you loosen/tighten them?

Curious.........looks like nice set of filters provided changing is NOT a PITA LOL

[Mighty_J]

Very simple and easy to change. There’s enough space to spin off any of them individually. You undo it, it drops low enough to then pull it out the front. The centre one comes out between the front supports and the outside ones come out on the outside of the supports. The cage is built like a tank (28 pounds).

You loosen/tighten them with a canister wrench (comes with the wrench you need).