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Old 04-30-2021, 05:18 PM   #1
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Hot water heater water valve location

Hi folks,

We had a big freeze in Texas a couple months ago. I thought I drained all the water from the plumbing before it hit.

But, Iím pretty sure the hot water heater didnít drain all the way. I just applied water to the RV and Iíve got a big leak coming from the water heater.

I canít see the leak source from the inspection panel. But I think the leak may be the water heater reservoir.

Does anyone know if there is a valve for the input water line to the heater. I couldnít find one.

2007 Fleetwood Bounder 38L diesel Class A.

Thanks!
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Old 04-30-2021, 05:27 PM   #2
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If water heater was not drained and froze...tank burst

OR....might have gotten lucky and just a line connection/fitting on backside of water heater broke

Should be:
Cold Inlet Valve (lower connection on WH Tank)
Bypass Valve (connects cold and hot lines)
Hot Outlet Valve (maybe...some just use a Check Valve in Hot out)

You need to access the backside of water heater to investigate source of leak
Removable panel...either inside the RV or under the RV where Water Heater is located

If Atwood Brand..tank is aluminum and can be Welded or just tank can be replaced

If Suburban and tank has split......whole new water heater (no repairs on tank or replacement tanks due to tank being glass-lined)
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Old 05-01-2021, 11:21 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
If water heater was not drained and froze...tank burst

OR....might have gotten lucky and just a line connection/fitting on backside of water heater broke

Should be:
Cold Inlet Valve (lower connection on WH Tank)
Bypass Valve (connects cold and hot lines)
Hot Outlet Valve (maybe...some just use a Check Valve in Hot out)

You need to access the backside of water heater to investigate source of leak
Removable panel...either inside the RV or under the RV where Water Heater is located

If Atwood Brand..tank is aluminum and can be Welded or just tank can be replaced

If Suburban and tank has split......whole new water heater (no repairs on tank or replacement tanks due to tank being glass-lined)


Thanks Old Biscuit, the styrofoam insulation surrounding the tank has spread apart slightly. Which makes me think tank expansion and failure.

The only access to the unit is from a small panel inside the RV or the exterior door that obviously used to install/remove the unit.

I can only see one valve from the interior access panel. Click image for larger version

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Old 05-01-2021, 11:54 AM   #4
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Hard to tell from photo....details are hard to make out

Looks to be an Atwood Brand
*Suburban are more octagon shaped

Is that a Mixing Valve......??
Look in outside compartment for sticker that states Model
GE16-EXT????


With that panel off..turn water on and see where it is coming from

Suspect you are right.....tank split
Whole unit has to come out to repair/replace
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Old 05-01-2021, 01:04 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Hard to tell from photo....details are hard to make out

Looks to be an Atwood Brand
*Suburban are more octagon shaped

Is that a Mixing Valve......??
Look in outside compartment for sticker that states Model
GE16-EXT????


With that panel off..turn water on and see where it is coming from

Suspect you are right.....tank split
Whole unit has to come out to repair/replace


Yes, sir. GE16 EXT

I do believe the top valve is a mixing valve. Thereís no shut off valve for it that I see.

I did find a shutoff valve on the connection that appears to be near the bottom of the tank. It looks like the input line. But, the valve is down stream from the input port.

I took a few more pictures. Click image for larger version

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But unfortunately I think I may have discovered another leak somewhere between the kitchen sink and shower.
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Old 05-01-2021, 02:27 PM   #6
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Lower valve would be Cold Inlet
The Mixing Valve is connected to hot out and has check valve

Bypass ...connects cold to hot is remote

You have work ahead of you
Removal of WH...tank can be welded (cheapest repair)
Tank can be replaced...have to remove components from drawn pan and then separate tank from pan.. New tank/new seal rings gaskets to reinstall (less expensive then new unit)

PLUS you need to locate that other leak......probably a fitting. PEX is pretty good/can expand if frozen but fittings...not so much
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Old 05-02-2021, 06:51 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Lower valve would be Cold Inlet
The Mixing Valve is connected to hot out and has check valve

Bypass ...connects cold to hot is remote

You have work ahead of you
Removal of WH...tank can be welded (cheapest repair)
Tank can be replaced...have to remove components from drawn pan and then separate tank from pan.. New tank/new seal rings gaskets to reinstall (less expensive then new unit)

PLUS you need to locate that other leak......probably a fitting. PEX is pretty good/can expand if frozen but fittings...not so much


Thank you for the valuable insight, kind sir.

It seems the national supply chain is playing catch up for RV water heaters at the moment. Will know soon if repair is the only timely option.

I successfully isolated the water heater with bypass valve. And good news, I found the other leak.

It was the water pump. 🤦🏻*♂️

See pics. Now to replace the pump. The factory pump is an obsolete Sureflow. So next step is finding a quality replacement.
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Old 05-02-2021, 09:39 AM   #8
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The pump pre-filter can be replaced cheaply instead of pump replacement and only takes 10 minutes.

See link for pre-filter.Water Pump filter/strainer
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Old 05-02-2021, 10:50 AM   #9
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YEP^^^^^

You can get new strainer

IF you really want to upgrade the pump (2088 3gpm/45pis)
You can do a direct swap with a Shurflo 4008 or 4048
4008....Internal Bypass to control low demand flow----3gpm/55psi
4048....Internal Bypas----4gpm/55psi


The replacement tank is Atwood 93950
10 gallon.......and YES production/stock is very limited
But good aluminum welder can repair the split in tank
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Old 05-03-2021, 11:18 AM   #10
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Thank you both for the continued input and advice! Found a local shop with a 4008 in stock for a reasonable price.

Also, the same shop said they have an alternate replacement for the water heater in stock. Atwood GC 10A-4E, are yíall familiar?

Thanks again!
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Old 05-03-2021, 11:25 AM   #11
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I would miss my EXT model with the mixing valve. DW and I can shower back to back without ever running out of hot water. If you wouldn't need the mixing valve benefit then a replacement without is fine.

Happy trails.
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Old 05-03-2021, 12:27 PM   #12
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Atwood GC 10A-4E
Only thing different between that model and your GE16-EXT is the mixing valve and the 155*F T-stat used on the EXT Models
(4E model uses a 140*F t-stat)

Same tank size, same wiring connections, same size unit

Options:
Swap out with new 4E model
*Change Barrel/Pin connector on Brown Wire that goes to T-stat with a Small Spade connector

OR
Install the Mixing Valve on Hot out and swap the T-stat with your EXT t-stat
Now have an GE16-EXT ----

We have the GC10A-4E .....we Never had an issue of running out of hot water
Course we leave water heater ON when hooked up and turn propane on (with the electric) for fastest recovery rate
Boondocking.......propane always on and we still didn't run out of hot water

I do not like the Mixing Valve set up due to clogging/scaling issues
If camping in Hard Water Areas the calcium will build up/clog the mixing valve then you only have Cold water until you remove mixing valve/clean it/replace it

Hard Water Map USA
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Old 05-03-2021, 12:54 PM   #13
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I always regret responding to the same topic as you. Sad
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Old 05-03-2021, 06:52 PM   #14
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I always regret responding to the same topic as you. Sad
I don't understand WHY
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