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Old 10-10-2021, 10:36 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by wolfe10 View Post
Best answer.

But would be quite surprising if three wires (black, white and green) were anything but 120 VAC.
With wiring on an RV, I take nothing for granted.

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Old 10-10-2021, 11:38 AM   #16
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I'll throw out some "ifs."

First, IF you aren't experienced working with electrical, hire a pro.

Second, IF the box is on the moving part of your slide, and the second picture is the area behind the wall the box is mounted to . . . .

IF there's enough room, you can replace the surface mount box with one shown below, then pigtail off the existing wire nutted connections and add a outlet. Connection would be pushed off to the side box to make room for the outlet.

Three. IF this is a moving wall, the black cord is probably the input power to the box. Stranded wire would be used to handle the movement of the wall in and out. IF so, Romex is probably going to something 110 mounted in the slide.

IF the black cord is the abandoned cord to the chair and dead ends, it could be removed and a standard shallow "old work" box could be used to add an outlet after removing the surface mount box.

Four. The easiest way to add a plug is to pigtail off the existing connections, get a cover for a single duplex outlet, add the outlet and call it good. Paint the box white.

Its kinda' hard to be sure without seeing this in person - hence the IFs.

NOTE: I'm not an electrician so one may come on and say DO NOT follow my advice. It's my opinion, if you wire it correctly and encase the connection in a box, it should be safe. If you decide to use the existing box, do not install two duplex outlets resulting in four places to plug something in. That's just asking for a future overload to what's most likely a 15 amp circuit. Also the new plug wouldn't be a good place to plug in an electric space heater for the same reason.

If you are just going to add an outlet to the existing box, you'll just need an outlet, a cover, a foot of each, 14ga white, black, and green/ground wires, a pair of cutter/stripers and a screw driver. You don't need to spend a lot on the outlet, just avoid the $.97 ones. You won't use the whole foot of wire, just about 6-7".

Hope this helps
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Old 10-10-2021, 12:41 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by TXiceman View Post
With wiring on an RV, I take nothing for granted.

Definitely always start with a multi-meter, but if that wiring was wrong there would be other noticable problems. Im wilimg to bet a doughnut ans a coke that its correct.
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Old 10-10-2021, 01:17 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by amosnandy View Post
Take a closer look. The 12 v wires don’t go into the box. It looks like outdoor Romex going into the box.
Gee thanks for that insight......after pictures of the inside of junction box were posted

120VAC power comes in left side....Heavier gauge wiring
120VAC power to some item/component goes out the bottom ....lighter gauge wiring

OP needs to locate:
AC Circuit Breaker for that power supply
Where/What the smaller guage wires go to

Then he can Remove the smaller gauge wires if no longer needed/associated with missing power chairs and wire the box as an Outlet

OR retain it/cover it etc IF the 120VAC is needed form someother item NOT associated with the missing power chairs

SO.....WHAT is that 120VAC actually FOR????

And Yes the other bundle of yellow/white are 12VDC
Which also needs Identified ....which DC Fuse powers them
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Old 10-12-2021, 12:30 PM   #19
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Sounds like the next plan of action is to 1) test the black and white wires for capacity with a voltmeter and 2) find out what else is on the circuit, if anything, so I don't overload with whatever is plugged into the would-be outlet.

It does look like it's part of a circuit since the same wires enter and exit the box. Not sure why this box was placed there since they are not connected to the 12v wires which must have powered the recliner chair.

To find out what is on this circuit, would you recommend having a voltmeter connected to the black and white wires while tripping each breaker?
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Old 10-12-2021, 08:10 PM   #20
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Looks like that box joins the flexible wire from under the slideout, to the romex in the slideout.

But I don't see it on a 2003 Brave 32v 120v wiring installation drawing

I just guessed it's a 32V assuming it'd be like yours. Maybe not. What model do you have? The diagrams ought answer all your questions and end the speculation...

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Old 10-12-2021, 10:38 PM   #21
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You got it exactly, 2003 Winnebago Brave 32V
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Old 10-12-2021, 10:42 PM   #22
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This project requires skills that I don't have (yet) and will be hiring this job out to be on the safe site. I'm glad I posted here because I enjoy learning and seeing if it's a doable DIY project or not.
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Old 11-19-2021, 02:27 PM   #23
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I tested the black and white wires and it's definitely 120 volts, on a circuit connected to a GFIC outlet.

1 - What wires go to the back of the outlet?

2 - How to I make sure the wires going in and out are not interrupted by the outlet? I assume I can't just cut off the wires exiting back into the wall? (See above for pic - note it's upside down)
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Old 11-19-2021, 03:50 PM   #24
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You can either add pigtails, or wire direct to the outlet. Stranded wire will need end terminals crimped on.
Either method will not effect the circuit as is, providing you dont break off the outlet side tabs if wiring direct. This is a simple 10 min job.
No, you can not just cut the wires off and push them into the wall, if I understand you correctly.

That said, I recommend you revisit your #22 reply as the best advice
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