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06-16-2024, 04:38 PM
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#15
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Member
Country Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 96
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Given that my jacks failed at the top of a retract action, (apparently because the controller kept the motor cranking?) a switch like you describe would be a perfect addition.
__________________
Mike & Lynn
2008 36' Tiffin Phaeton
Pushed by a 2014 Ruby Red Grand Cherokee.
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07-03-2024, 06:27 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2024
Posts: 37
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Apologies for not updating sooner, but I've been busy with work, and doing some redesign of the control panel, to accommodate status LEDs and limit switch inputs. I was originally just going to put a limit switch inline with each manual control line to the GAMA board for "UP", and break the signal with a limit switch, but then that made it difficult to sense full retraction for LED operation, and the more I considered it, the more I didn't want to risk interfering with the GAMA controls. I circled around it for a while and finally decided keep the limit switch circuit completely separate, and use the limit switches to toggle relays on or off, for both the manual controls, and status LEDs. It wound up simplifying things quite a bit, as I didn't need to reprint the controller mounting plate, or rewire anything to the controller, and I could just run the limit switch signal wire to the control panel, and do everything from there. Also, got a final design of the limit switch brackets for the legs, with readily available switches, and bench tested everything.
Here's an early version of the limit switch bracket:
http://natesoutpost.com/public/motor...0619190455.jpg
Here's the final version (all 4) with one limit switch installed:
http://natesoutpost.com/public/motorhome/atwood-version-2//IMG20240703194919.jpg
Messy bench testing:
http://natesoutpost.com/public/motor...0703195002.jpg
A couple of screenshots to give an idea of the finished control panel:
http://natesoutpost.com/public/motor...0703195120.jpg
http://natesoutpost.com/public/motor...0703195058.jpg
(Sorry, inline images still not working)
I'm getting close to being finished, I just need to verify fitment for the control panel and relay bracket, then do some final tweaks and print it. Oh, almost forgot, I am going to add a 200 amp relay on the main line for the controller that will be activated by the switch on the control panel. The control panel power switch wl deenergize the entire system, so I'll be increasing the safety factor as well.
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07-06-2024, 09:10 AM
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#17
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Member
Country Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 96
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Interesting developments there, Nate. Any chance you have worked up a wiring schematic? I'm not grasping fully how you run two LEDs per leg.
I like the cutoff relay idea.
__________________
Mike & Lynn
2008 36' Tiffin Phaeton
Pushed by a 2014 Ruby Red Grand Cherokee.
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07-07-2024, 01:34 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2024
Posts: 37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mlfiedler
Interesting developments there, Nate. Any chance you have worked up a wiring schematic? I'm not grasping fully how you run two LEDs per leg.
I like the cutoff relay idea.
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I'm using these ( https://t.ly/ZSeQ5) with a red LED on the NO leg of each relay, and a green LED on the NC leg of each relay, with +12v on the common leg, for one 4-relay pack. The other 4-relay pack will have the "UP" switch on the NO leg, and the line to the GAMA controller "UP" terminal for each motor on the common leg, with the NC leg unused. When the limit switch for a leg is closed (leg down or not fully retracted) there will be +12v at the relay for that leg, for both relay packs, energizing the relay coils, powering the red LED, and closing the control line to the GAMA controller. Once the limit switch is triggered, the signal will be removed from both relays, de-energizing the relay coils, lighting the green LED, and opening the control line to the GAMA controller.
Here is a simplified circuit showing the "UP" logic for one jack:
https://tinyurl.com/2xvppzxl
It's not component accurate, and the relay logic is simplified, but it's functionally accurate. The "DOWN" controls will not be modified.
I'm no expert, and I could have probably done all of this with a PLC or something, but this gets the job done, doesn't monkey with the GAMA controller function, and adds a safety factor that was missing. In addition, a power switch will control all power to the dash panel, and the GAMA controller via additional relays, so that the system can be completely powered down.
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07-21-2024, 04:22 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 64
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I was just going to Purchase this GAMA Controller for my Failed Atwood Leveling system on my 2007 Phaeton, My issue is that I dont have any power to the Control Pad by the driver, After reading everything that you posted and BTW Thank you for that, Im going to wait until you finalize your project and maybe with a bit of help I can duplicate it!.........
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07-22-2024, 08:42 AM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2024
Posts: 37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichLNY
I was just going to Purchase this GAMA Controller for my Failed Atwood Leveling system on my 2007 Phaeton, My issue is that I dont have any power to the Control Pad by the driver, After reading everything that you posted and BTW Thank you for that, Im going to wait until you finalize your project and maybe with a bit of help I can duplicate it!.........
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Hey Rich, also sent you a PM. I'm getting close to finishing version 2, and on that topic, I've made quite a bit of progress, and here's a couple of pics for those following along.
Panel bracket installed, and relay packs and lever blocks attached
Fully wired up for bench testing
Jacks up (limit switch depressed)
Jacks down (limit switch open)
A little more testing, then I'm going to install it. Waiting on a couple of final parts, but I should get to it this week.
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07-23-2024, 09:35 AM
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#21
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garoamers
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Nath Thats looking Really Good! I think its going to work just fine.
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07-24-2024, 09:07 AM
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#22
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2024
Posts: 37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichLNY
Nath Thats looking Really Good! I think its going to work just fine.
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Thanks Rich! Let me know which direction you want to go with yours. Any luck with the Atwood system?
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07-25-2024, 10:52 AM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garoamers
Thanks Rich! Let me know which direction you want to go with yours. Any luck with the Atwood system?
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Im Waiting on the GAMA Board to arrive, I would like to try a duplicate the system your designing once your completed with it, I would like to go over it step by step with you so that I can make a video of the install once I have all of the materials that I need. As far as where Im at, I went to the RV and did a fedw measurments with the Meter, and althought the board is getting power, Im not getting 12v on the control pad, now im not sure if Im suppose to be getting 12v power to the control, what are your thought? Thanks Nathan
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07-26-2024, 08:54 AM
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#24
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2024
Posts: 37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichLNY
Im Waiting on the GAMA Board to arrive, I would like to try a duplicate the system your designing once your completed with it, I would like to go over it step by step with you so that I can make a video of the install once I have all of the materials that I need. As far as where Im at, I went to the RV and did a fedw measurments with the Meter, and althought the board is getting power, Im not getting 12v on the control pad, now im not sure if Im suppose to be getting 12v power to the control, what are your thought? Thanks Nathan
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I'll PM you some options on the parts and whatnot. Meantime, you should have 12 volts between pin 3 and 4 (red and black) on the 4-pin control pad connector. If you have nothing on 3 and 4, the board is not sending power to the control pad. If you're getting 12 volt at the large supply cables to the board, you could try disconnecting the ground for a few minutes to reset the board, then reconnect and see if it changes anything. It could also be the cable between the board and the control pad, which you could verify by checking the pins on the control board where the 4-pin cable plugs in. If you're getting voltage there and not to the other end of the cable, the cable is likely bad. Just a couple of things to check before ripping it out.
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