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Old 08-04-2020, 06:04 PM   #1
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How to change AC power source to inverter from shore power for residential fridge

I have removed my Norcold 1200 fridge and plan on replacing it with a residential unit, probably a Samsung model. I have a Magnum 2000W pure sine wave inverter/charger with remote.

My question:

How do I change the one dedicated a/c fridge plug over from shore power to the inverter. This switch should allow the fridge to run off the inverter while driving. All the other plugs in my motorhome operate directly from the inverter. Once I plug into shore power, the inverter will switch over automatically.

I have read numerous threads on the subject but cannot find info on how to do the change. Any help will be appreciated.
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Old 08-04-2020, 06:17 PM   #2
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A quality properly wired inverter has a pass through for AC when on shore power no switch needed. If your norcold had an icemaker there will be a seperate outlet for that. It is wired to the inverter. You can plug your residential fridge into it and problem solved.
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Old 08-04-2020, 06:25 PM   #3
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If you install an inverter/charger/ automatic transfer switch, all you have to do is remove your old converter and hook the DC fuse panel directly to the battery.
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Old 08-04-2020, 06:43 PM   #4
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Find the fridge circuit breaker and remove that black wire.

Pick a breaker that's powered by the inverter and make a pigtail to that breaker.

Don't put two wires under the breaker screw, use a wire nut to the two wires plus a short peice, to the breaker.
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Old 08-04-2020, 07:06 PM   #5
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Video

Quote:
Originally Posted by Knightly View Post
I have removed my Norcold 1200 fridge and plan on replacing it with a residential unit, probably a Samsung model. I have a Magnum 2000W pure sine wave inverter/charger with remote.

My question:

How do I change the one dedicated a/c fridge plug over from shore power to the inverter. This switch should allow the fridge to run off the inverter while driving. All the other plugs in my motorhome operate directly from the inverter. Once I plug into shore power, the inverter will switch over automatically.

I have read numerous threads on the subject but cannot find info on how to do the change. Any help will be appreciated.
Watch this video it does a good job explaining the process.

https://youtu.be/U8N1diJY0-g
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Old 08-05-2020, 11:31 AM   #6
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Thanks for the tips. I will check out over next few days and follow up with an update.
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Old 08-06-2020, 06:43 PM   #7
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Today I checked out my power outlet behind the old Norcold fridge and discovered that it only works on shore power, not the inverter. On the RV panel, the fridge gets its power from the EMS bus.

Twinboat: I have two outlet CB's and they both work off the inverter. The way I see it, I need to disconnect the black wire from the EMS bus that powers the fridge CB (see attachment) and then reattach to outlet CB as you suggested should work? The EMS will no longer prioritize the fridge but I don't think that would be a problem? I don't know why all my outlets are powered by either shore power or inverter except the fridge.
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Old 08-06-2020, 10:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knightly View Post
Today I checked out my power outlet behind the old Norcold fridge and discovered that it only works on shore power, not the inverter. On the RV panel, the fridge gets its power from the EMS bus.

Twinboat: I have two outlet CB's and they both work off the inverter. The way I see it, I need to disconnect the black wire from the EMS bus that powers the fridge CB (see attachment) and then reattach to outlet CB as you suggested should work? The EMS will no longer prioritize the fridge but I don't think that would be a problem? I don't know why all my outlets are powered by either shore power or inverter except the fridge.
knightly,
This is amazing. I am presently running a thread on your very same exact situation. The main differences between your situation and mine is,
1. My Norcold was/is an N-1095
2. My Inverter/Charger is a Magnum 2012ME MSW
3. My newly installed residential fridge is a Magic Chef.

It's amazing how so many RV'rs think that all motorhomes are built the EXACT SAME. Nothing can be further from the truth. Our coach also has ONLY ONE OUTLET IN THE BACK OF THE FRIDGE COMPARTMENT! And, just like yours, that outlet is powered ONLY by the main circuit breaker panel, and NOT THE INVERTER!

So, I am in the same, EXACT situation you are. Only, we're on a trip right now and, I am wanting our new Magic Chef 10.1 Cu.Ft. residential fridge to be powered by the inverter, when we're driving. So, I have asked the very same question on my thread about powering that ONE AND ONLY outlet, with the inverter.

A good member on here, IMDiesel, steered me to your thread and, Twin Boat has confirmed my suspicions that, that is the only way to make yours and my situation work, is to re-locate the hard wire for the fridge outlet, that emanates from either the main breaker panel, or the EMS, and attach it to or, piggyback it to, a circuit that emanates from the inverter/charger breaker panel.

This is my thread I started a few days ago.
Thinking about a residential fridge.
Scott
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Old 08-07-2020, 10:19 AM   #9
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Watch this video it does a good job explaining the process.

https://youtu.be/U8N1diJY0-g
Well,
I watched that whole video and, from what I can determine, that video has absolutely nothing to do with what *we're* trying to accomplish. That video has a lot more complicated instructions and process, than we need. All Knightly and myself are trying to do is, make the one and only non-inverter controlled outlet, be controlled BY the inverter, period. And, from what Twin Boat has suggested and what Knightly has surmised, all that needs to be done is remove the wire that sends power to the fridge outlet, from whatever source it comes from, either the main buss bar or, an EMS controller, and place it piggyback style on to an inverter controlled circuit, DONE!
Scott
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Old 08-07-2020, 10:29 PM   #10
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I figured with a 2000 watt inverter you would want to power more than just the refrigerator. While your doing the work I'd want it to run my TV's and other outlets for boon docking or a quick break so you don't have to fire up the generator.

Sometimes I think to far down the road.
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Old 08-07-2020, 11:16 PM   #11
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Hmm, don’t know if this will help or confuse things, but....

I thought I read a brief thread here about using a smaller dedicated inverter for the fridge and leaving the 2K one for everything else....it made sense as it would constantly run the fridge off the batteries when boondocking and you wouldn’t necessarily have to turn on the 2K one as it would gobble up the power for nonessentials.

I wish I could find that thread.
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Old 08-07-2020, 11:57 PM   #12
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Fire Up,

Thanks for the feedback regarding your situation being the same as mine. I agree that there can be a lot of differences within same brands of RV's. I purchased my rig new in 2007 and it came with an 800 Watt inverter/converter. Within the first year I updated to the Magnum 2000 Watt PSW inverter plus a 120W solar panel c/w remote displays.

My 13 year old Norcold died about three weeks ago. The cooling unit leaked ammonia and yellow power. We have decided to replace it with the GE 33" counter depth french door refrigerator with LED lighting plus energy star qualified. The next part of the project is to determine the best way to secure the unit to the RV.

Yes, there are a lot of good members that try to help when there is a problem which is what makes IRV2 such a great resource!

I will update this thread as I complete the installation. Good luck with your conversion.
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Old 08-08-2020, 12:25 AM   #13
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Fire Up,

Thanks for the feedback regarding your situation being the same as mine. I agree that there can be a lot of differences within same brands of RV's. I purchased my rig new in 2007 and it came with an 800 Watt inverter/converter. Within the first year I updated to the Magnum 2000 Watt PSW inverter plus a 120W solar panel c/w remote displays.

My 13 year old Norcold died about three weeks ago. The cooling unit leaked ammonia and yellow power. We have decided to replace it with the GE 33" counter depth french door refrigerator with LED lighting plus energy star qualified. The next part of the project is to determine the best way to secure the unit to the RV.

Yes, there are a lot of good members that try to help when there is a problem which is what makes IRV2 such a great resource!

I will update this thread as I complete the installation. Good luck with your conversion.
Knightly,
First off, may I confirm, you state your rig originally came with an "Inverter/converter"? Well, I must say, I don't think I've heard of that kind of unit. Most gas coaches, at least in my meager 30+ years of working on and owning some, come with a *Converter*. Where as, most Diesel coaches, come with an Inverter/Charger.

Now, if you've changed from your original Converter, to an Inverter/Charger, that in my opinion, is a way better way to have things operating. But, that's just my opinion. As for you securing your new fridge, well, yep, I went through all that too. In the end, after scratching my head 'till I almost scratched the last of my grey/white hair off of it, the CEO and I came up with an idea almost at the same time but, SHE will take the credit, imagine that!!!

Anyway, what I did was pretty simple. I just hope it continues to work for even a medium length of time, driving down Americas less than perfect roads. Here's what I did. The side to side clearance in my situation, between the sides of the fridge and the sides of the face frame, were 1/16" per side. Yep, kind-a tight.

But, the top was over 1 3/4". And the bottom, well, that's a given, it was/is sitting on the bottom and, there's no actual clearance issues there. But, what I did was this. I made sure that the floor was dead square with the face frame of the fridge opening. That is, make sure that, when the fridge is pushed into place, and hits stops in the back, that it's not sticking out of the face frame in the front, at any given point, more than others. In other words, make sure the reveal of the edge of the fridge is the same, for at least the two virtacle sides and the top.

Or, if your fridge edge, NOT THE DOORS, is flush with the face frame of the cabinet, all the way around, here's a way to handle your issue. If that's the case, as an example, you can put maybe 1/16" spacers on the stops in the back of the fridge cabinet so that, when the fridge is pushed into its hole and hits those stops, you will have a 1/16" reveal of the fridge front edge, sticking out beyond the face frame.

1/16" inch is not much. You can now, get metal to place across the top, that will screw into the top of the face frame and, actually put a clamping force of the top edge of the fridge against the top/rear stop. And, you can do the same for the bottom. Now, your fridge is basically CLAMPED between the front new metal pieces and, the rear stops. That fridge is not going anywhere. It's not an Indy Race car you're driving, it's rolling HEAVY KLEENEX BOX and as such, you drive it sanely around all corners etc. anyways.

Now, all you need is some side metal, to butt up against the top and bottom pieces. Done! That is all I did and it looks like the factory did it. I painted the new aluminum pieces that I installed and, people that have seen it since the job was completed, say it actually looks better than some factory installs. Good luck on yours.
Scott
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Old 08-09-2020, 05:38 PM   #14
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Fireup,

You are correct. I must have had one of those senior moments! My rig came with a converter plus an 800 W inverter. The 800 W inverter was removed/replaced with the 2000 W inverter/charger.

I am very interested in your explanation for securing the fridge. My new fridge will also be very tight, about 1/16" per side plus 1 3/4" on the top. The floor is pretty solid except for an 8" area parallel to the outside wall. There is a rubberized catchment area with drain where the old Norcold fridge would drain if the ice maker supply hose leaked. I am pretty sure the back two wheels of the new fridge will drop down into this area. So the first problem I have is to come up with an idea to extend the floor surface with something strong enough to support the back two wheels of the fridge. Then the second issue will be securing it in place as you described. I do not have back stops. I have a 28" depth from the front to back of the cabinet. The fridge depth is 31", 28" without doors. So my back stop will be the RV exterior wall. I have access to the top through the fridge vent and the bottom through the fridge access side cover. I understand what you are saying about the fridge reveal edge being consistent all around. However, I do not understand your clamping method. How is the aluminum pieces attach to the face frame? Do you use the top hinge bolts or screw directly into the fridge box. Would it be possible to send a couple of photos?
Thanks, Derek
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