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Old 08-30-2004, 03:48 AM   #1
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I'm getting the no/co warning which means that the frig was running while not level. Did this once before when I was new to the camper and had to bring it back to the dealer which is 120 miles away. This time it was due to a torrential rain storm which caused the front jacks to sink into the ground while camping overnight and unleveling the camper. There's got to be a process the owner can follow to reset the frig. This can't be that uncommon.
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Old 08-30-2004, 03:48 AM   #2
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I'm getting the no/co warning which means that the frig was running while not level. Did this once before when I was new to the camper and had to bring it back to the dealer which is 120 miles away. This time it was due to a torrential rain storm which caused the front jacks to sink into the ground while camping overnight and unleveling the camper. There's got to be a process the owner can follow to reset the frig. This can't be that uncommon.
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Old 08-31-2004, 02:14 AM   #3
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Hmm.... Wonder if disconnecting it from both 120v and 12v would help? Unplug from shore. Disconnect house battery. It did mine when it got stuck on a low voltage warning (left unplugged for 2 days with nearly dead battery).
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Old 08-31-2004, 03:11 AM   #4
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Unplugging the 120 & 12 volt supply will not help. The needed reset is to just used a jump wire to ground one of the empty connectors on the circuit board (#15) to the metal casing for 20 - 30 seconds and the board reset. You should hear a click. Look in your owners manual as the connector should be shown so you know where it is and how to get to it. You will need to have the 12 volt power on the ref.
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Old 09-04-2004, 12:04 PM   #5
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RV Wizard, is it #15 from the Wiring Pictorial or Wiring Diagram. The first says that #15 is the "DC heater (3-way models only), the latter says "LED".

I assume to have the 12-volt power on I simply need to unplug from AC and make sure my LP tanks are off? The no/co message comes up so quickly I'm not sure I can set it to DC from the controls.
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Old 09-04-2004, 05:34 PM   #6
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You can leave power on and with the control box cover removed it is the large white quick connector and the pin #15 is top row second from left. Use a piece of wire you can insert into that hole and short it to 12 volt - or ground.
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Old 09-20-2004, 09:39 AM   #7
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I have not been able to find anything that resembles what you're describing on my frig. There are two large panels that remove on the outside of the RV, the top one reveals simply a peice of sheet metal and the lower one reveals some hoses/plug and a 6"x4" black cover in the upper left corner of the opening on the back of the frig. Do I need to remove this black cover? I loosened the screws on it and it didn't move easily so I didn't force it for fear of dislogding wires. Am I remotely in the right place?
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Old 09-20-2004, 07:19 PM   #8
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Yes, you need to remove the black box cover to get to the large white quick connector. If you feel uncomfortable in doing any of this I recommend you get some qualified help.
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Old 09-24-2004, 03:24 AM   #9
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Thank you very much RV Wizard, I successfully reset my frig the other day. Made a few mistakes but nothing critical, such as blowing the fuse while removing some of the DC connectors in order to get the black cover off.

It is an aweful tedious process to perform this, any thoughts on either fixing a wire to #15 and taping off the other end so I don't have to remove the cover in the future? Or drilling a small hole in the black cover so I can see the #15 without removing the cover? Glad I know how to do it now either way.

Last question, the condition (running frig slightly unlevel) that causes this, could I do any damage to the frig by leveling and then resetting? Is it that these things are over-protective or that the unit really got in a self-damaging state and something other than just tripping it to reset is required?
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Old 09-24-2004, 06:04 AM   #10
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I'm surprised your Norcold level sensing is that critical. It usually takes quite an angle to be a problem. Or was your rig really that far off-level?
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Old 09-24-2004, 09:03 AM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> It is an aweful tedious process to perform this, any thoughts on either fixing a wire to #15 and taping off the other end so I don't have to remove the cover in the future? Or drilling a small hole in the black cover so I can see the #15 without removing the cover? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
After reviewing the threads above, I'll just note that this same problem happened with my friend's Norcold. Dealer told him that once you've rest pin #15 two separate times, if it sees a third time the computer goes into permanent fault and the factory must replace it.
-Not my experience, just what I've heard.
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Old 09-24-2004, 07:32 PM   #12
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The reason for the "lock out" built into the board is to protect the cooling unit. Several things can cause the unit not to cool down with in the specified time limit. You should try to find out what was causeing the problem and correct it. We have found insulation laying across the top of the condensor coil as well as very off level units that will go into lock out. I will have to investigate the number of resets to the board are maximum (if any) before permanent lock out is achieved.
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Old 09-25-2004, 05:08 AM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by RV Roamer:
I'm surprised your Norcold level sensing is that critical. It usually takes quite an angle to be a problem. Or was your rig really that far off-level? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I was 100% level when I went to bed and the typhoon type rain caused the front jacks to sink 2" in the mud at night. Not terribly unlevel. As far as I'm concerned, this Norcold is extremely sensitive.
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Old 07-24-2006, 06:19 PM   #14
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Did anybody ever get an answer on how many time you can reset the board on a Norcold before it locks down?

Thanks
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