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07-14-2018, 10:22 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Yuma County, AZ
Posts: 10,869
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How to seal the refer air vents?
I am in the process of switching out my Dometic AC/propane refrigerator to a Nova Kool refer with a DanFoss DC condenser. No propane means no need for the side and roof vents. I considered leaving them open until I talked to their Customer Service rep who pointed out the problem of dust entering the coach if I did.
I could use some suggestions for what to use to seal those vents. I'm also planning to insulate the cabinet with 1" rigid foam.
__________________
Barb (RVM18) with Morkies Lily & Bebe RIP Sena FMCA#F466348
"Homer" ‘11 Shasta Cynara, pulling "Ranger" '97 Ford Ranger toad
The Journey is Our Destination. Full-timer May 2011 - July 2021
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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07-14-2018, 10:35 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
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Foam insulation could be glued to the doors and added inside the roof vent.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
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07-14-2018, 10:35 AM
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#3
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Community Administrator
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 21,565
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The best thing I could think of to seal the vents would be the 2" wide aluminum tape that is used in HVAC work. You can pick up a roll at most big box home improvement stores.
__________________
2017 Phaeton 40IH XSH Maroon Coral - Power Glide Chassis with IFS
Previous '15 Tiffin Allegro RED 38QRA and '06 Itasca Sunrise 35A
'16 Jeep JKU Wrangler Sahara or '08 Honda Goldwing
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07-14-2018, 12:46 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,984
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If you leave the vents open it also lets hot air into the coach in the summer and cold air in the winter.
I got a sheet of 1.5" faced sheet Styrofoam at home depot for insulation.
For the roof vent, I decided to keep the roof vent in place because it did not leak and I did not want to have to remove it and seal a big hole in the fiberglass roof. It also reserved the option for a future (crazy?) owner to reinstall another absorption refrigerator. I cut two pieces of Styrofoam that fit in the vent hole from inside the cabinet and sealed them in with silicone caulk and screwed a piece of wall paneling to the ceiling to fully seal it off.
For the side vent I closed off the inside of the vent lid with some Eternabond and caulk. Then I fit a piece of the Styrofoam into the outside wall opening and sealed it with caulk.
This has worked perfectly in weather from single digits up to 100. Just make sure you maintain refrigerator back, top and side clearances in the cabinet and enough clearance around the face frame for ventilation.
__________________
'04 Newmar Mountain Aire 4016
400ISL/Freightliner
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07-14-2018, 01:19 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,796
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Roof Vent - on the inside I filled the space up to level with the roof with styrofoam and sealed the inside around the alcove with reflectix insulation. On the roof I bought a small piece of EPDM roofing material (sellers on Amazon that sell by the foot off the roll), covered a piece of 1/8" ply and screwed that to the roof. DoubleStick Microseal tape on the bottom and Eternabond tape on the top covering the hardware and edges.
Side Vent - aluminum tape on the inside sealing the vent openings with reflectix on the wall of the alcove.
If you just want to keep it simple and reversible take the cover off the roof vent and tape the opening stack with aluminum vent tape and reinstall the cover. Side vent just cover the inside of the three vent openings with the same tape.
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2006 Hurricane 31D built on a 2006 Ford F53
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07-14-2018, 05:44 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Yuma County, AZ
Posts: 10,869
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I bought a sheet of R-5 rigid insulation and a roll of Sliver HVAC tape and found a piece of packing material that is sort of like styrofoam, but more durable. It came as packing around a new air purifier my DD bought.
I cut the packing material to fit the side vent because I wanted something white behind the slots. It is sealed inside and out. The rigid foam I cut to fit the sides and back. If there is enough room I'll add a layer of Reflectix. Next all the seams and around the perimeter of the cabinet will get taped. I'll use reflectix over the top of the unit since that's where there will be extra space.
I plan to seal the roof vent with rigid foam, and caulk. Over that I’ll lay down some 40mil pond liner caulked around the edges and then reinstall the vent cover that's still in good shape.
While working in the cabinet I realized the factory missed a great opportunity for insulation when they left the walls hollow and just added some fiberglass insulation to the inside face of the cabinet.
This has been more fun than I thought it would be. I can see myself gutting this RV someday and rebuilding it.
Thanks for your help, guys!
__________________
Barb (RVM18) with Morkies Lily & Bebe RIP Sena FMCA#F466348
"Homer" ‘11 Shasta Cynara, pulling "Ranger" '97 Ford Ranger toad
The Journey is Our Destination. Full-timer May 2011 - July 2021
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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07-15-2018, 07:44 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Yankton, SD
Posts: 324
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Just remember the fridge still needs ventilation. "No propane means no need for the side and roof vents." is not a correct statement.
http://www.novakool.com/support/docu...ber2007PDF.pdf
__________________
George
2011 Ford F350 DRW
2015 Mobile Suites 41RSSB4
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07-15-2018, 02:22 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt Dan
The best thing I could think of to seal the vents would be the 2" wide aluminum tape that is used in HVAC work. You can pick up a roll at most big box home improvement stores.
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That is what I use after installing the Samsung ridge, works very well.
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07-15-2018, 02:36 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 30
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I used Gorilla tape over the inside of the vents when I changed out to a residential fridge. Ours is 120 volt so I notched my lower vent so I can now run an extension cord in to run the fridge when on 30 amp service. I also have access to all components of the fridge without having to remove the fridge with lower vent removed
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07-15-2018, 05:23 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Yuma County, AZ
Posts: 10,869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fulltimer
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My new unit is the RFU 9000. It has a built in fan that draws air thru vents in the front. This is what Nova Kool says
"Double door units
Require 60 sq.in. INLET and 60 sq.in. OUTLET
(With the exception of the RFU9000, and the RFU8220 which has all of the required ventilation built into the front of the flange"
__________________
Barb (RVM18) with Morkies Lily & Bebe RIP Sena FMCA#F466348
"Homer" ‘11 Shasta Cynara, pulling "Ranger" '97 Ford Ranger toad
The Journey is Our Destination. Full-timer May 2011 - July 2021
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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