How to secure loose jack knife sofa

[Kayakist]

As the pics show the screws the manufacturer used on my jack knife sofa are pulling out. Tightening won't work as the floor composition is not solid wood. Therefore, I don't think larger screws are the answer.



Anyone have any suggestions on alternative screws/bolts? To make the situation worse the sofa is on the full wall slide so I don't have access to the underside of the floor. It also means I have to be careful on length of crew/bolt. The original screws are 3/8 inch head and 1 3/8 inches long.



Appreciate any feedback. Cheers.

[David 70]

Would toggle anchors work?

[wildtoad]

Can you move the brackets to another location? Perhaps glue a thin layer of "real" wood or metal to the existing wood to give the screws a bit more to bite into?

If it's in a slide, can you not get under the slide when it's extended?

[jacwjames]

What under the location of the screws.



In our Class C the sofa was bolted down through the floor with large screw going into the basement with large plates and nuts.


In our Class A the screws go through the bottom of the slide out and bolts with large flat washer heads pushed up through and nuts on top.

[US1]

I think I would use regular lag bolts instead. Those self drilling sheet metal screws dont leave enough material left for securing when used on wood.


Might try to determine if there is metal under the sub floor that the manufacture is trying to grab. although i wouldn't hold my breath on that.
You can poke a piece of wire thru the holes till it bottoms out to determine how much depth you have to work with.

[GPCPL]

Originally Posted by jacwjames

What under the location of the screws.



In our Class C the sofa was bolted down through the floor with large screw going into the basement with large plates and nuts.


In our Class A the screws go through the bottom of the slide out and bolts with large flat washer heads pushed up through and nuts on top.

From your description, they sound like elevator bolts.Grainger
https://www.grainger.com
Elevator Bolts - Grainger Industrial Supply
Good luck on your project!

[Kayakist]

This is the approach I think I'm going to use. The brackets can be moved on the frame easily.

Looking under the slide from the outside there is a smooth bottom which moves on rollers. I don't want to modify anything with that.

As an aside, I don't fully understand how the full wall slide moves out (1-2 ft) and the interior floor stays intact. There's no apparent seam to account for the additional floor space (although I haven't paid a lot of attention to that before).

I'm just a little concerned about adding new screws that might affect the movement of the slide.

Originally Posted by wildtoad

Can you move the brackets to another location? Perhaps glue a thin layer of "real" wood or metal to the existing wood to give the screws a bit more to bite into?

If it's in a slide, can you not get under the slide when it's extended?

[Kayakist]

Fixed, Hanger Bolts.

Used blue Loctite to ensure nuts don't back out due to vibrations.

Happy Travels