Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > RV SYSTEMS AND TECHNOLOGIES FORUMS > RV Systems & Appliances
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-13-2012, 08:39 AM   #1
Junior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 24
How to splice # 6 Wire

I must add about 18" to my # 6 Romex coming from the rear of my fiver from shore power to the circuit breaker box. I would appreciate advice regarding the proper method to splice the four wires. I'm told butt connectors but that requires an expensive heavy duty crimper. All suggestions will be appreciated. Thank you.
Steve
spat is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 02-13-2012, 08:47 AM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 86
Solder and Tape
Sidewinder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 08:55 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Steve N Sal's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Michigan
Posts: 5,675
You can use a split bolt or a mechanical butt splice. A mechanical butt splice has set screws so the crimping tool is not needed. You would probably have to buy that at a electrical wholesale distributor though. The split bolt is available at any hardware, big box store or electrical wholesale distributor. You will need tape or heat shrink to cover either application. This splice would also be required to be enclosed within a junction box.
__________________
Steve & Sally / Hudson Our Little Pom / Heidi, Houston & HiTee Forever in our Hearts
04 NEWMAR MACA 3778 W22 / 05 PT Vert
Michigan (Summer) Michigan (Winter For Now)
Steve N Sal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 09:01 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Rodneykrantz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: West Columbia SC
Posts: 809
Split bolt is the way to go just make sure you use a copper split bolt with copper wire
Rodneykrantz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 09:19 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Buxton, North Dakota
Posts: 3,902
For those unfamiliar with the Kearney split bolt, here is what they are

Kearney split bolt

The connections should be wrapped with a protective sealant such as T&B TBT20 and then wrapped with electrical tape. As mentioned this should be done in a junction box. There is no reason not to use 6 gauge wire nuts and simplify the process. The wire nut connections should be wrapped with electrical tape and enclosed in a junction box.
__________________
2003 Winnebago Adventurer 38G F53/ V10 605 watts of Solar
1999 Winnebago Brave 35C F53V10 Handicap Equipped
1999 Jeep Cherokee, 1991 Jeep Wrangler Renegade and 2018 Chevrolet Equinox Diesel
John Hilley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 10:03 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
ArmyEOD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 419
Spat, as stated above, use a juction box for any connection. It may make it easier to put the juction box in location you can get to and then use a longer wire to the power panel. Use wire nuts and then tape them good, the wire nuts will give you a solid connection but the tape will ensure they do not vibrate off. Boxes are cheap $2.00 each plus the two clamps that hold the wires in the box. 4 wire nuts and 3 ft of 4/6 wire 10.00 max. Always make 120/240 electrical connection s in a jucntion box, never but splices and tape. Hope this helps you out.

Also, why are you having to add wire??
__________________
George & Julie
06 Diplomat PDQ
ArmyEOD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 10:10 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
wa8yxm's Avatar
 
Damon Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,023
I don't know about Wire Nuts,, I just re-did the 10ga one (hot lead) on my Inverter's output lead for the 2nd time.. This time I soldered the connection. Hopefully I won't be doing it again. Can't trim too much more wire off.
__________________
Home is where I park it!
wa8yxm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 10:44 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
RJay's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,589
A mechanical connector(split bolt) for solid wire and crimped for stranded wire. A soldered connection is acceptable but more susceptible to a cold joint.
__________________
2007 Newmar DSDP 4023
Discovery is seeing what everyone else has seen and thinking what no one else has thought.
If you want to see what man made go East; if you want to see what God made go West.
RJay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 11:31 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
codgerbill's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ann Arbor Michigan
Posts: 788
You didnt say if this is a temporary thing or a permanent thing or if you will roll it up after use and store it till the next time. If it will be something you will use off and on again and require you to move it out every time you use it, I would not recommend wire nuts. The copper crimp sleeves are the best solution as they leave a smaller lump where the splices are made, but if that is not a viable solution for you I would do it with split bolts. You would need to stagger the splices and then tape over the splices with Scotch 33 0r 88 electrical tape and then use heat shrink over each splice and then heat shrink over everything. I mention taping over each split bolt first to smoothe over any protrusions that could eventually wear thru.
__________________
2005 Suncruiser
Banks Powerpack
Chocolate lab (Buster)
2007 Jeep Wrangler
codgerbill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 12:00 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
steelheadbluesman's Avatar
 
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Zigzag, OR
Posts: 1,061
Very interesting thread, thanks to all you Gentlemen
__________________
'07 Itasca 35L/W22 FULL-TIMING
1000 Trails - VFW - 5 Yrs Army
"NOT ALL WHO WANDER ARE LOST"
steelheadbluesman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 12:04 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Tempe, AZ
Posts: 1,833
Per code, 120v connections must NEVER be soldered! Soldering is OK for 12v connections as long as the connection has an adequate mechanical connection; solder should not be the only thing holding the splice together.

As others have stated, all connections, splices, etc. must be inside an accessable enclosure of some kind, again per code. Merely taping a splice without an enclosure is unacceptable and dangerous. Even inside an enclosure, a heat shrink sleeve will give much better protection. Split bolt connectors are probably the best and easiest connector for the average DIYer to use (btw, Kearney is a brand name--many manufacturers make split bolt connectors--although some locals use Kearney as a sole generic name). Best would be crimp connectors (side by sides or butt) but the average DIYer will not have access to the heavy duty crimp tools required to properly crimp connectors for such large wire sizes.

While wire nuts (such as blue Scotchloks) are acceptable for stationary installations, like and S&B home (again no solder!) but RVs are subjected to vibration and wire nuts can loosen up over time. Trying to depend on tape to prevent that is dangerous and inadviseable.

In the OP's case, a junction box may not be practical. Even properly made splices and connections are still the weak link in any electrical wiring run. While more hassle and expense, replacing the entire cable from where it enters the RV with a longer length could be the best and safest route to take. If the cable is a continuous length that runs from the pedestal to the panel and is stored in a mouse hole when not in use, the easiest and least expensive route could be to just loosen whatever is securing the cable and pull it the necessary distance needed. If a plug in connector is used where the cable enters the RV, then a new run would be needed between the plug in connector and the panel.

Considering the thousands of dollars people spend on their RVs, it doesn't make good sense to cheap out on the wiring.
LadyFitz... is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 01:17 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
steelheadbluesman's Avatar
 
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Zigzag, OR
Posts: 1,061
And Ladies.... Somehow I knew I was being politically incorrect.
__________________
'07 Itasca 35L/W22 FULL-TIMING
1000 Trails - VFW - 5 Yrs Army
"NOT ALL WHO WANDER ARE LOST"
steelheadbluesman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 01:29 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Tempe, AZ
Posts: 1,833
Quote:
Originally Posted by steelheadbluesman View Post
And Ladies.... Somehow I knew I was being politically incorrect.
No you weren't. I hadn't chimed in yet so your initial respose was just fine. But thanks for your concern.
LadyFitz... is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2012, 01:33 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Mr_D's Avatar
 
Country Coach Owners Club
Solo Rvers Club
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,651
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJay View Post
A mechanical connector(split bolt) for solid wire and crimped for stranded wire. A soldered connection is acceptable but more susceptible to a cold joint.
According to the description of the split bolts at the link above they have split bolts for both solid and stranded.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA, SKP
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
Mr_D is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
wire loom access jkeith Monaco Owner's Forum 1 07-04-2011 07:31 AM
Wire type for 7.5 kva Generator Dick_Wins National RV Owner's Forum 4 05-06-2010 06:48 AM
How to wire a 50 AMP recepticle dschardi RV Systems & Appliances 6 05-01-2010 05:31 PM
Burnt Plug Wire on the UFO UFO Pilot Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 11 04-17-2010 11:39 AM
Orange Wire to No Where PizzaGuy Monaco Owner's Forum 5 04-04-2009 09:51 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:34 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.