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Old 07-29-2020, 06:03 PM   #1
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Hughes Autoformer

I recently purchased a Hughes Autoformer model RV-220-50SP. This unit is designed to monitor the input voltage to my 50 Amp supply and boost low input voltage when necessary. It also has a replaceable surge protector module. When I first tested the unit in my storage garage I was getting 124 and 125 VAC on the two power feeds, according to the inside monitor panel, before hooking up the Autoformer. This is not surprising as my power comes directly from the main panel in the garage and is the only drop on the pole transformer. After hookup I was getting 135 and 135. My Surge Guard transfer switch cuts off at 132 so it would not power the RV. I verified the voltages at the Autoformer with a multi-meter and contacted customer support. They said that the unit should only boost about 2% for voltages above 115. Below that a relay in the unit, one for each side of the supply, boosts the output back to nominal 120V power. They sent me a label and I returned the unit. I got it back and it had exactly the same input vs. output and would not power the RV. I have already re-wired my shore cable to allow internal installation of the autoformer so I could carry it as insurance from low voltage sites but it was not cheap and the other alternative is to return it for a refund. Any ideas?
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Old 07-29-2020, 06:20 PM   #2
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I don't use mine unless I need it.
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Old 07-29-2020, 06:28 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbobway47 View Post
I recently purchased a Hughes Autoformer model RV-220-50SP. This unit is designed to monitor the input voltage to my 50 Amp supply and boost low input voltage when necessary. It also has a replaceable surge protector module. When I first tested the unit in my storage garage I was getting 124 and 125 VAC on the two power feeds, according to the inside monitor panel, before hooking up the Autoformer. This is not surprising as my power comes directly from the main panel in the garage and is the only drop on the pole transformer. After hookup I was getting 135 and 135. My Surge Guard transfer switch cuts off at 132 so it would not power the RV. I verified the voltages at the Autoformer with a multi-meter and contacted customer support. They said that the unit should only boost about 2% for voltages above 115. Below that a relay in the unit, one for each side of the supply, boosts the output back to nominal 120V power. They sent me a label and I returned the unit. I got it back and it had exactly the same input vs. output and would not power the RV. I have already re-wired my shore cable to allow internal installation of the autoformer so I could carry it as insurance from low voltage sites but it was not cheap and the other alternative is to return it for a refund. Any ideas?
Why are you using the autoformer when you don't have a problem?

Incoming utility power for residential use is +/- 10% of rated (120V) voltage, so a utility could deliver 110V or 134V and be in spec. Appliances are designed to accommodate this.

As for why your Hughes is boosting around 8% when it's not needed is a mystery. I think another phone call to their tech support is in order. The likelihood of 2 defective units in a row is pretty low.
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Old 07-29-2020, 06:38 PM   #4
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Use a good multimeter and check that all the hot leads, grounds and neutrals are wired right in your garage 50 amp outlet.
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Old 07-30-2020, 07:49 AM   #5
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Please read the first post again. My garage plug is at 124/125 volts. This is within normal voltage readings. The garage plug is not my problem. The problem is the Autoformer is boosting 10% when the voltage is above the supposed threshold for boosting. The unit is not the second bad unit in a row, it is the 'repaired' original unit with the same serial number I sent off. I am trying to decide whether to carry the unit is case I need it or to send it back for a refund. One post does suggest that I just carry the unit and plug it in when needed. That is a simple solution and is what I will probably do. I just wish that the company had their act together and could ship a properly working product, given two tries at it. I emailed customer support with the results of the second test and was told 'the unit worked when it left here'. That is when I decided to post to the IRV2 net. I was expecting automatic operation, not manual measure first then apply boosting. Unit is well packaged and compact. It weights 32 pounds and has a nice lifting handle attached. I have fabricated a rectangular bracket to hold it in place in the electrical compartment so I might as well keep the unit. Thanks for the responses.
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Old 07-30-2020, 08:28 AM   #6
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Interesting. I just ordered one of these after the "weekend from Hell" due to low voltage. It should be here tomorrow, I'll check to see if mine operates correctly. IMO, they are a lot of $$ to not do what they are advertised to. Granted, you can hook it up only as needed, but that's not how it's advertised to work. What happens if your away from the RV ?
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Old 07-30-2020, 08:44 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbobway47 View Post
Please read the first post again. My garage plug is at 124/125 volts. This is within normal voltage readings. The garage plug is not my problem. The problem is the Autoformer is boosting 10% when the voltage is above the supposed threshold for boosting. The unit is not the second bad unit in a row, it is the 'repaired' original unit with the same serial number I sent off. I am trying to decide whether to carry the unit is case I need it or to send it back for a refund. One post does suggest that I just carry the unit and plug it in when needed. That is a simple solution and is what I will probably do. I just wish that the company had their act together and could ship a properly working product, given two tries at it. I emailed customer support with the results of the second test and was told 'the unit worked when it left here'. That is when I decided to post to the IRV2 net. I was expecting automatic operation, not manual measure first then apply boosting. Unit is well packaged and compact. It weights 32 pounds and has a nice lifting handle attached. I have fabricated a rectangular bracket to hold it in place in the electrical compartment so I might as well keep the unit. Thanks for the responses.
oops... sorry.... didn't mean to offend..... I had read the first post and the others.... I thought I was being helpful.....

I assumed you meant that there is about 124v at each leg of the 50amp receptacle. That's good. But I was suggesting you also check that the ground and neutral are correct too as well as checking for 240v across both legs. I can't tell from your post if you checked that. It may not matter, but it just seems there are so many posts here about mis-wired RV receptacles that I thought it might be worth investigating.

I have an older Autoformer. I use to keep it permanently in operation in my last RV (a Class A). I had arranged the electrical bay so I could remove it if necessary and bypass it, I used some 50amp plugs and receptacles to do that.
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Old 07-30-2020, 08:51 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by jimbobway47 View Post
I emailed customer support with the results of the second test and was told 'the unit worked when it left here'.
I agree with you on their lack of concern, and it would be a lot more convenient to install it and be done with it. I had a similar issue early on with mine, boosting with no led indication that it was. Their suggestion was to unplug and replug to see if it would reset or send it back. I got lucky and it reset although I haven't needed it since. I have seen other users reporting that they are told to jar the auto former (as in drop it from a short distance) in an effort to free a stuck relay.
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Old 07-30-2020, 10:19 AM   #9
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I'm not familiar with the unit but if relays are sticking is there a "this end up" arrow?Some relays and contactors use gravity to help them open.
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Old 07-31-2020, 08:55 AM   #10
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Thanks again for the replies. I was looking for input from current users of the product and I see my experience is not uncommon. I have gone for the internal install kit, which includes a pigtail and a receptacle. That way I can measure the input voltage before hooking up and decide whether to go through the autoformer or straight into the transfer switch.

About the garage outlet. I have been using it since it was installed and verified the installation by removing covers before ever plugging in the first time. Too much expensive electronics on RV to risk damage.

After reading the replies I have decided to keep the unit. I will hook it up when boosting is required. I may also open up the case and check for relays that may have been damaged in shipment although I think that has a low probability. The customer service people said they replaced the relays before sending the unit back to me. I have purchased the 50 amp to dual 15 amp adapter so that I can use my Kill-A-watt voltmeter before plugging in at the pedestal.
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Old 07-31-2020, 09:07 AM   #11
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I'm planning on getting one of those Autoformers too (assuming there are not a lot of negative reviews on it). And I would only consider getting/installing it if it can be installed inside the coach and wired for "full time" use.

It doesn't make sense to measure the voltage at the Shore Power pole "to decide" if yo need the Autoformer in-line because you can have sufficient voltage when you test in the morning (so you leave the Autoformer unplugged), then later in the day the voltage at the pole drops when all the coaches turn on their AC or such. You (I) would want the Autoformer permanently connected and just not boosting voltage when it doesn't need to.

When you measured voltage, did you measure at the wall receptacle or at the Coach? If you only measure at the garage wall, you could be getting voltage drop though the cord going to your coach. If that is the case measure the voltage right at the plug where the Autoformer plugs in.

I plug into a 120VAC receptacle in my garage and run an extension cord (it was a 12GA or 14GA) to the coaches 50A plug (I use a 50A to 30A to 20A reducer) and I would get about 10V drop through the 100ft extension cord. Then I upgraded the extension cord to a 10GA 100Ft cord and voltage drop gone.
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Old 07-31-2020, 09:13 AM   #12
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One thing to keep in mind is that when you are testing voltage at a pedestal it may read good until you put it under load. Depending on how the entire CG was wired, where you are at in the circuit, and total load the voltage my vary.



I was staying at a CG in the UP of Michigan, I did not have a surge protector at the time. Everything was good until it got hot and people started to turn on the AC units. Started having problem with AC units kicking out since the voltage was dropping and in turn the amperage was spiking (ohms law, lower voltage, higher amps if the watts stay the same). The CG owner was blaming the power company, so I called them (had connections at the time) and the engineer said that their power was good, it was the antiquated power system at the CG that was the problem.
Ended up buying a Autoformer that solved the problem, kept it plugged in the rest of the stay, about 3 months.

I now have a surge protector and will plug it in if I start seeing lower voltage.
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Old 07-31-2020, 09:31 AM   #13
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I have our 50 amp Hughes installed in the basement and run it full time. It is wired so that I can unplug it and by pass. Operating this way, we have seen very few low voltage issues with the hard wired Progressive Ind EMS.

I did have one issue with the Hughes running high voltage and the unit was just 3 months out of warranty. It had a sticking relay. I had to pay shipping back to Hughes and they repaired it and they shipped it back to me. It has not been an issue since then.

Ken
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Old 08-01-2020, 08:06 AM   #14
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I get identical results at the receptacle and with the onboard voltmeters included in my display panel. Using 6/4 cable from the outlet to the RV so there is a very small drop when only battery charging and interior lights are in use. I get a 1 Volt drop when the 12 amp air conditioning loads are applied. I have ordered an adapter that will allow easy monitoring of the 50 amp receptacle on the Autoformer and I may lightly tap the case to see if there is a stuck relay. If that does change the output I will have to say that the Autoformer is not properly designed for shipment since both the original unit and the repaired replacement unit have the same problem. I find it hard to believe that the final test procedure at their factory would not find such a defect. It will not be a big problem to verify the pedestal voltage when hooking up at a campsite. The protection from under-voltage was the reason I purchased the Autoformer. The fact that with two tries they can't get it to work as advertised doesn't change my need for protection. That is why I have decided to use it in 'manual' mode rather than simply returning the unit for a refund.
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