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Old 08-28-2015, 07:06 PM   #15
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Salt water and aluminum do not play well together.

Stainless seems to play well with most materials when dry and grease seems to keep things in order.

Never had issues so far.
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Old 09-03-2015, 10:03 PM   #16
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I'm still dealing with the jack problem. Am I correct that the same solenoid valve is used to extend and retract function of the 310 system? My jacks extend fine but there is still a retract problem unless I tap the valves.
I have continuity through the solenoid valves. I'll check again tomorrow to make sure I have battery voltage to all four solenoid valves.
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Old 09-04-2015, 09:11 AM   #17
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I'm still dealing with the jack problem. Am I correct that the same solenoid valve is used to extend and retract function of the 310 system? My jacks extend fine but there is still a retract problem unless I tap the valves.
I have continuity through the solenoid valves. I'll check again tomorrow to make sure I have battery voltage to all four solenoid valves.
The springs cause the jack to retract. The solenoid must opened (energized) to alow the fluid to pass from the cylinder back to the tank. The solenoids are open/close only type of valve.

These valves have several o-rings that can drag. HWH can rebuild these valves at half the cost of new if necessary.
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:51 AM   #18
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Thanks Vapor, I realize that the springs pull the jacks up. My question is, there is only one solenoid valve per jack so the same solenoid has to open to both raise and lower the jack.
I'm not having a problem lowering the jacks only raising them.
I'll check voltage to the solenoids later today in both the raise and lower mode.
Thanks for your help.
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Old 09-04-2015, 08:54 PM   #19
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After a bit more looking I now have battery voltage to all the solenoids except for the left front. Does anyone know where Winnebago his the relay box for the HWH? I have an 03 Itasca Suncruiser 38G. I'm checking the electrical system schematics tonight.
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Old 09-05-2015, 08:37 AM   #20
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Thanks Vapor, I realize that the springs pull the jacks up. My question is, there is only one solenoid valve per jack so the same solenoid has to open to both raise and lower the jack.
I'm not having a problem lowering the jacks only raising them.
I'll check voltage to the solenoids later today in both the raise and lower mode.
Thanks for your help.
There is one solenoid per jack. These valves are energized when you depress the retract button. When I owned the '05 Adventurer, I had to spray WD-40 on each exposed jack shaft before they would rasie properly.
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Old 09-05-2015, 08:47 AM   #21
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Since all four jacks have a problem, I don't think it is a defect solenoid....unlikely that multiple solenoids would fail at the same time.

The low voltage could be the problem. I could see where the high pressure from the pump would overcome a partially opened valve (because of low voltage) yet during retract, the cold fluid and the spring pressure are not enough to allow the fluid to pass through the valves.

You could try to disconnect the +12 side of one valve and put a good 12V on it.
But I am curious why manually opening the valves does not let the jacks retract...unless the manual opening is as good as using the coil to open the valve.

REmember, low voltage could be caused by a bad connection on EITHER the 12v or Ground side.

Regards,

Dan
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Old 09-05-2015, 09:53 AM   #22
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I've cleaned and our dielectric grade on the grounds for the jacks, including the one on top of the valve block and the lug bolted to the frame.
I'm believe I found the control box, it's behind a wall with the heater duct outlet next to the emergency brake.
Thanks for your ideas and help.
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Old 09-05-2015, 05:50 PM   #23
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If you have the HWH 310 system, there is a good chance it is the shuttle valve which is screwed into the pressure maifold. If it is, the only fix I know is to replace with new. When I changed mine it was $70.00.



I would caution you not to use the store button too frequently. Every time you hit that button, it heats the solenoid valve. You can easily burn these solenoid valves and the replacement cost is $185.00 each!! I know, I burned up 3 of them trying to get my jacks up. Just touch these soleniods and if they are hot to the touch, let them cool for 20 minutes or so before to cycle again.



Good Luck.

My jack alarm goes off frequently when driving. HWH said drive with store mode on. Is that wrong?
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Old 09-05-2015, 06:47 PM   #24
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Some success. I found the control and found two blown fuses.
I had to remove the trim panel neat the door, three screws. Then remove the carpeted section, one screw in the center going into the floor and one into the firewall.
The box is mounted on the firewall with Velcro. After allot of work, and bending wiring harness, I was able to access the fuses.
Now to put it all back together.
I'm still not sure the solenoids will work to retract the jacks but I now have power to all four valves.
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Old 09-05-2015, 06:51 PM   #25
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One good thing about this project is we have a drivers door. Why Winny mounted the control box where they did is beyond me.
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Old 09-06-2015, 08:58 AM   #26
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fuses

If you continue to blow valve fuses, you have (a) bad solenoid(s).
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Old 09-06-2015, 09:32 AM   #27
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My jack alarm goes off frequently when driving. HWH said drive with store mode on. Is that wrong?
Do any of the individual jack lights come on that the same time, meaning it is dropping? I think the the jack alarm is triggered by the fluid level, is your fluid level normal with your jacks up and rooms closed?
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Old 09-06-2015, 11:16 AM   #28
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My jack alarm goes off frequently when driving. HWH said drive with store mode on. Is that wrong?

If you activate the jack control store mode when you start the coach , the system will time out after a set time , to prevent the solenoids overheating.
B-I-L had the issue with his Tiffin W-22 chassis, after he stopped for a break during the day, exhaust system heat would cause enough movement of the jacks to trigger the jacks down alarm. New springs didn't cure the issue but cycling the store mode on hot start up did.
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