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Old 01-23-2023, 12:53 PM   #1
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Intellitec PCB Repair w/ plug-in relays

I wanted to see if anyone has worked on these at home? I've repaired a few in the past using solder-in relays and the like.

The PCB is 73-00824-001. I've confirmed the relays were both not working (with my power probe) by trying to trigger the coil and also metering the ohm of the coil.... was like 4.5k ohms, so too high.

Right now these SPST relays (soldered PCB relays) are eluding me with abnormally extended shipping dates into Q2 2023. I need this RV for nascar season and as you can see, it's the BCC/BIRD board. I'd like to have the ability to keep both battery banks charged and have the other associated features like batt boost as well... It's important enough to ask what I'm considering doing.

Has anyone soldered leads from the pcb to a plug-type relay and got this thing to work? Obviously I plan on heat shrinking and cable managing everything but looking at the schematic this is a simply relay that looks to just reverse the polarity?

Amy help is appreciated.
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Old 01-23-2023, 01:12 PM   #2
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I happen to have a slew of the relay’s shown outlined on the board - I used to offer a service of replacing the heater relay in Bosch dishwasher controls that used that relay.

PM me you address and I’ll send a couple to you. Confirm coil voltage to be sure (probably 12vdc).
Relays I have are highest rated contacts I could find in that package AC rated for heater current. Should be more than adequate for your need. I think the ones I have are Potter/Brumfields or other name manufacturer.

But OTH - there shouldn’t be any issue in using the relay you have shown - and in fact, I’ve got 3 of those with sockets I would be happy to part with (although you can probably get faster from Amazon which is where I ordered the ones I have from. Used them to take the blower motor heater load off of the blower speed switch - “6 Pack Bosch Style 5-Pin 12V Relay Kit”).

Edit to add: you just need to be sure whatever is driving the coil of those Bosch style relays can drive the coils. Can’t see what drives those coils from the schematic, if there is a driver between the PIC or not.
And as suggested by TandW - while you have the board and soldering iron out - replace the caps with quality new ones. Check insurance.
FWIW - I don’t see clamping diodes across the relay coils to dissipate the coilS back EMF when deenergized.
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Old 01-23-2023, 01:15 PM   #3
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Replaced the rectifier in one. The caps evidently failed two years later. Not worth the time by then. Bought a new one 1 step larger. Still going strong far longer than the original.
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Old 01-24-2023, 08:19 AM   #4
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Looks like board #6 in the rear run box of a mid 2000's Monaco. Did you try Googling the brand and number on the side of the relays, themselves? I never had to work on the board you are dealing with, but I had success in the past finding a replacement relay for a couple in the front run box.
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Old 01-24-2023, 05:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K7JV View Post
Looks like board #6 in the rear run box of a mid 2000's Monaco. Did you try Googling the brand and number on the side of the relays, themselves? I never had to work on the board you are dealing with, but I had success in the past finding a replacement relay for a couple in the front run box.
Yeah I did and they wanted $300. Not a chance.

I just soldered in some SPST relays and it works great. I suppose I can see why intellitec used soldered relays, but when they go bad its such a federal investigation to get it fixed. I'm glad I'm somewhat well versed in this stuff.
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Old 01-26-2023, 01:54 PM   #6
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So I soldered some appropriate relays on the board, with further looking and testing on the RV it didn't fix my issue.

Talked to Mr. M&M and told me that it would be around $450 (for just one board) to get this shipped, diagnosed, fixed, and then shipped back. Seems a little steep when I can replace the whole BIRD system with a blueseas latching system for much less and not have any issues going forward.

For the time being I identified 2 diodes that weren't working, a few resistors out of spec, and a microprocessor that (I think is broke) is controlling the reversing latching of the battery disconnects. I bought them from digi-key for like $3 plus $25 for shipping.

I'll check back in when I get it all soldered up.
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